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Old 07-04-2010, 02:03 PM   #1
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Default Oil leak around oil filter

I'm only writing this to confirm. I haven't seem this mentioned for newer(ish) Xj's. But I have a 1999. I have a oil leak around the oil filter. There is still the 3 O rings used in this year, right?
I also need to replace the valve cover gasket and oil pan. However I'm paying someone to do the oil pan. It looks too labor intensive for a single fella to do.
Thanks in advance
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:51 PM   #2
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You need to change out the O-rings on the oil filter adapter, it's not that hard.
And I will paying someone to do my oil pan gasket also as it can't be done without a lot of yelling and screaming of obscenities.
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Cherokee View Post
You need to change out the O-rings on the oil filter adapter, it's not that hard.
And I will paying someone to do my oil pan gasket also as it can't be done without a lot of yelling and screaming of obscenities.
x2
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:02 PM   #4
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that's what I wanted to confirm. Is that there are those 3 O rings.
Now to figure out the part number. My Jeep dealership looks at me like I'm crazy when I ask them.
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #5
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I stay away from that Jeep parts department if they've never head of the oil filter adapter O-rings.
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #6
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Mine can be done on the ground thanks to the excessive lift. Stock xj I disconnect the shocks and let the axle droop. 1 man job takes about 2 hrs tops.
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #7
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I think these are the right numbers,33003970,33003971,33003972
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:08 PM   #8
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I stay away from that Jeep parts department if they've never head of the oil filter adapter O-rings.
x2 I hate parts guys that stare at the clock all day.
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:49 PM   #9
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I think these are the right numbers,33003970,33003971,33003972
Thank you kindly Sir!
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:51 PM   #10
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x2 I hate parts guys that stare at the clock all day.
I agree. Then I hate myself a little bit too for not knowing. My friends all call me a smart @$$ b/c I know so much stuff. But you kinda have to since a lot of people you come across don't know and it's kinda their job to know.
But my reply to my friends is, "better to be a smart @$$ than a dumb @$$."
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Old 07-04-2010, 04:20 PM   #11
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http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...nt_O-Rings.htm

Enjoy.
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Old 07-04-2010, 04:39 PM   #12
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AH HA! That's the link I was diggin for. Thanks again.
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Old 07-10-2010, 04:47 PM   #13
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Okay so the oil filter adapter o-ring replacement. 95 XJ, 4.0 151k, I'd like to meet the engineering genious that thought up the " lets put a torx head bolt in an area that doesn't have enough space to put a socket on. Or better yet NO hex head to put a wrench on" What a S**T head.
And then let's top it off by making the bolt a dissimilar metal to the adapter just to make sure it corrodes.

Okay so I go to the dealer and get the o-rings and ask an older mechanic who's been there awhile (figure he's done a few) what the trick is to getting it loose? He says all you have to do is shock the bolt head with an air hammer that has a good sharp chisel, while turning on the torx. Sounds good to me. There was no chance of getting it loose I don't care how much it got shocked all it did was make a mess of the bolt head. Should have know better than that.

So here's what I did. I went back to the local dealer and got a new adapter and bolt (still a torx, nothings changed figures) already had the o-rings. I loaded a new 18 tooth metal blade on my electric sawz-all and opened a big can of sawz-all whoop *** on the adapter. First I tied back the positive cable and sending unit wires so I wouldn't hit them. And I cut off the top of the adapter behind the head of the bolt about 3/4's of an inch. Then I wiggled the adapter loose back and forth a little. (the roll pin behind it holds the adapter in position) so you only have a little play. Then I kept working the top of the be-headed bolt to loosen it and unthread it out. You can always notch out the side of the adapter to get more work room on the bolt. Once it's out piece of cake. Lube the o-rings with plenty of light oil. I also never-seized where the new bolt head contacts the adapter in I ever re-attack (doubtful though).

Tip? I noticed that the nipple that comes with the new adapter the one the filter screws onto, will screw into the block and probably be able to eliminate the adapter if you can find a skinny filter with the same o-ring and threads. (I'm thinking one off of another 4wd) But I didn't have time to mess with it, that and I already had the adapter new and couldn't return it. I'm attaching a pic of the results after the removal. saved a ton of headaches and cussin. The parts cost me total of $65.00 my time and aggravation is worth alot more than that. Thats my 2 cents. Good Luck ! How the heck do I attach a pic?
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:28 PM   #14
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Im new to this fourm stuff. Ive got a 1995 se straight 6 with 199,400 miles. runs strong, only oil leak thats big enough to bother me is the only one not in the book haynes book it tells me nothing about how fix the oil leak around the filter (its not the filter seal its self). How do you go about replacing those 3 rings you guys are talking about. meaning how do i get off?




Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Cherokee View Post
You need to change out the O-rings on the oil filter adapter, it's not that hard.
And I will paying someone to do my oil pan gasket also as it can't be done without a lot of yelling and screaming of obscenities.
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:31 PM   #15
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I just did the oil filter adapter o ring change about a month ago. I used socket caps. Bought a cheapo set from Harbor Freight for like $5. It was still a PITA, but they finally came off after about an hour of trying.
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