fingers94

greeting from planet MS. I have a 94 cherokee sport. great site and lots of helpful info. I need to fix a leak in the OFA. Three, o-ring kit needed and some elbow grease. Oil changing place told me i had a cracked thread or some bull cockie, after reading on here I suspect the o-rings need replacing. Does not look fun though. Before I start any other suggestions or processes? I found this site while searching the forum:
POSTED BY REWSTER, SEP 8TH, WWW.CHEROKEEFORUM.COM/SHOWTHREAD.PHPT=1385.

Any other advice?

Thanks in advance!!!

mudallday

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/motor-mounts-oil-filter-adapter-renix-1385/

this is for motor mounts and ofa. its a good rightup should help you out

fivendime

This? I just wanted to note that yours may have a T60 torx bit that takes the bracket off.

fingers94

I have seen a torx bit and a 16mm bolt securing it on a couple of related posts. I will have to wait til weather improves a bit before dad and I try repair. Meanwhile I'll keep an eye on the oil level and put a drip pan under leak. thanks for all info!!!

OverlandZJ

My 94 had the Torx head on it. These can be a royal pain to do as you cant fit the ratchet and bit between the adaptor and framerail.

Made this tool to do the job.

fingers94

I saw this deal on a related forum. I like what you did though... The price of yours was probably what I can afford. I for what ever reason already have a 60, must have come w/the kit I bought a couple years ago.

traver8

Hi All,

I have been researching the oil filter adapter o-ring replacement and am getting prepared to do it on my 95. But, I am curious about what the set of o-rings costs. I stopped at one dealer this week and they quoted me $12.75 for the set of three o-rings. To me, this soulnds like a lot of money. I was expecting maybe $5 or $6 but not almost $13.

Anyone out there priced these lately that can confirm this cost?

Thanks in advance,

Terry

tkdtim

Dealer I went charged me $2-3

jpcallan

A good place to settle the question about the cost of the O-Ring set is are we all talking about the same Mopar part number? I just did this dirty job on my wife's 1996 ZJ in late-July 2009. I think all the variations of the oil filter adapter use the same o-ring kit, which is Mopar P/N 04720363. I paid $6.40 for the three ring set. Our dealer in Beaverton (Portland), Oregon, pads the suggest list price of their parts by about 15%, so I would expect most customers will pay a little less.

A few words about the o-ring and the service job...

1) The big o-ring was as if it had turned to plastic; it was stiff and had no resiliency. This o-ring was in fact the cause of all the oil mess. I did change the two o-rings (small and smaller) around the Torx bolt-like fastener that holds the adapter to the block. Even after 103K miles, both of these o-rings were in excellent condition; the old o-rings were indistinguishable from the new ones, had I not marked the new ones with a dab of red Sharpie felt-tip pen ink.

2) It took five hours for the whole service job, 3 1/2 hours of which involved getting the bolt out and trips to the Industrial Supply. The reason why it is so very difficult to remove the Torx T60 bolt is because the factory installed it with something like LocTite #262?? Red (permanent) threadlocker. After removing the bolt and washing it with CRC brand Brakleen solvent, there was obvious plastic-like deposits in the end dozen or so threads. I cleaned out this residue from threads with a thread chaser, then wiped the female threads in the block down with more Brakleen solvent to remove any oil. After applying LocTite #246 (low strength, high temperature resistance) to the bolt's end dozen threads, I reinstalled the filter adapter onto the block. Torquing the the Torx bolt to the the service manual's specified 80 Ft-Lbs was a guess.

The steam-cleaned engine has remained absolutely oil free since changing the o-ring. There is not one hint of oil or ATF on the engine, transmission. or transfer case.

I plan to do a long post with photos illustrating four different ways of removing that evil Torx T60 bolt (9/16" female hex in some model years) without resorting to custom-made tooling. The filter adapter change-out job doesn't have to be such a bear with the proper planning and a few specific pre-bought tools.

Mr.JayDeeM

I paid $2.44 for my o ring set, and then my dad works for Jeep/Ford, so i get discounts. lol

traver8

As an update - I checked the two other local dealers and found that one had the set priced at $5.75 and the other, the closest one, had it at $4.64 - don't know how the first dealer sells any parts with their high prices.

DirtyWhiteBoy

Thanks guys for the info...I did this job today along with the valve cover gasket...looks dry for now

This forum rocks!

UserID6095

Try this, Oring set $4.99, Single Ring $1.49.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...kee&vi=1180325

Tat2d

Well it sure isn't one of Jeep or Chrysler better Ideas. That notoriously leaking O-Ring that they have in that fine Adapter they just so much needed. Well I did read and read because of wanting the easy fix to get that stopped. There isn't any, so it sounds . I broke a couple of the 12mm wrenches myself. Finally out of just frustration and anger. I said the hell with it. I just pulled the center bolt out of the motor mount. Right there by the prize winning bracket that I so much couldn't wait to hold in my hands like an Olympic gold metal. Pried up the motor with just a crow bar took a half inch T 60 Torx socket.Stuck it right on there grapped the half inch breaker bar. right then at that moment I finally was holding the gold. Yeah I say just pop out the motor mount bolt, pry up motor, stick a half inch T60 Torx on that baby. And Bam its done. Usually less than 35 minutes. I hope someone gets some help out of this. If you own a jeep you too will probably have the pleasure of changing this O-Ring at one time or another. Have a good one,Tat2d

Mudallday : Hit the Nail on the head with the motor mounts, and oil filter adapter gasket at the sametime.

Mud_Pirate

thats probably the best way of dealing with that torx nut i've read IMO. remove the engine mount and pry up the engine to get the torx socket in there.

but i'm curious if anyone has tried the Torx wrench that looks like an allen key but is the T60 on both ends. I have to change mine out and i'm thinking of trying one of those.