Originally Posted by traver8
I have been researching the oil filter adapter o-ring replacement and am getting prepared to do it on my 95. But, I am curious about what the set of o-rings costs. I stopped at one dealer this week and they quoted me $12.75 for the set of three o-rings. To me, this soulnds like a lot of money. I was expecting maybe $5 or $6 but not almost $13.
Anyone out there priced these lately that can confirm this cost?
Thanks in advance,
A good place to settle the question about the cost of the O-Ring set is are we all talking about the same Mopar part number? I just did this dirty job on my wife's 1996 ZJ in late-July 2009. I think all the variations of the oil filter adapter use the same o-ring kit, which is Mopar P/N 04720363. I paid $6.40 for the three ring set. Our dealer in Beaverton (Portland), Oregon, pads the suggest list price of their parts by about 15%, so I would expect most customers will pay a little less.
A few words about the o-ring and the service job...
1) The big o-ring was as if it had turned to plastic; it was stiff and had no resiliency. This o-ring was in fact the cause of all the oil mess. I did change the two o-rings (small and smaller) around the Torx bolt-like fastener that holds the adapter to the block. Even after 103K miles, both of these o-rings were in excellent condition; the old o-rings were indistinguishable from the new ones, had I not marked the new ones with a dab of red Sharpie felt-tip pen ink.
2) It took five hours for the whole service job, 3 1/2 hours of which involved getting the bolt out and trips to the Industrial Supply. The reason why it is so very difficult to remove the Torx T60 bolt is because the factory installed it with something like LocTite #262?? Red (permanent) threadlocker. After removing the bolt and washing it with CRC brand Brakleen solvent, there was obvious plastic-like deposits in the end dozen or so threads. I cleaned out this residue from threads with a thread chaser, then wiped the female threads in the block down with more Brakleen solvent to remove any oil. After applying LocTite #246 (low strength, high temperature resistance) to the bolt's end dozen threads, I reinstalled the filter adapter onto the block. Torquing the the Torx bolt to the the service manual's specified 80 Ft-Lbs was a guess.
The steam-cleaned engine has remained absolutely oil free since changing the o-ring. There is not one hint of oil or ATF on the engine, transmission. or transfer case.
I plan to do a long post with photos illustrating four different ways of removing that evil Torx T60 bolt (9/16" female hex in some model years) without resorting to custom-made tooling. The filter adapter change-out job doesn't have to be such a bear with the proper planning and a few specific pre-bought tools.