Nut on 242 transfer case
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nut on 242 transfer case
I have a 94 Cherokee with a NP 242 transfer case. The front out put seal leaks. There is a nut on the output gear where the CV joint hooks up to the transfer case. It takes a 1 1/8" socket. I can not get the nut off with all my strength! I actually broke a 1/2" extention bar in half trying to force it off with my breaker bar. Is there something holding this nut on I don't know about? Any suggestions cause my front seal leaks bad. Thanks.
#2
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Location: Palmyra, VA
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
try a breaker bar with a steel pipe longer and a little bigger about two feet odda do for leverage and also it might be reversed threads and your just making it tighter! good luck and buy craftsman if you break it they will replace it with equal or better for free. each and every time.
Last edited by sport76; 09-17-2008 at 11:17 PM. Reason: added length
#3
It's not reversed threads!!
Put it in 4-low.
Use a floorjack to apply the force. Jack it up and leave it sit for a few minutes, jack a little and wait some more. Eventually the nut will pop free.
Put it in 4-low.
Use a floorjack to apply the force. Jack it up and leave it sit for a few minutes, jack a little and wait some more. Eventually the nut will pop free.
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Year: 95 and 98
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 and 4.0
Reply to an old Question...
I have a 94 Cherokee with a NP 242 transfer case. The front out put seal leaks. There is a nut on the output gear where the CV joint hooks up to the transfer case. It takes a 1 1/8" socket. I can not get the nut off with all my strength! I actually broke a 1/2" extention bar in half trying to force it off with my breaker bar. Is there something holding this nut on I don't know about? Any suggestions cause my front seal leaks bad. Thanks.
I've run into issues like this time and again. Get a GOOD Mapp torch and heat the SIDE of the nut you don't need to get it so hot it glows, just hot enough to boil water, then soak the opposite side with a good penetrant (NOT regular WD-40, although their new penetrant does do an awesome job) as it cools it will draw the fluid in, You may have to do it a couple times on various spots... then heat the whole nut, put the socket on while its hot, use a breaker and a pipe and give it a good snap to break it loose. If you can do this on the downward side with a steady pressure and at the same time hit it with a heavy dead blow hammer you should get it to break loose. Also MAKE SURE you are using an impact socket not a chromed standard socket. All too often a standard socket will give first. I've had these buggers stall a heavy duty 3/4" impact driver and a standard 1" impact driver, in the past. Understanding how to heat a nut in order to draw penetrating fluid into the threads is a vital skill for every mechanic, were it not for that, I would not have added to this old of a thread.
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