Batman33165

I have a 1988 Cherokee, manual, dana 30 in front and 35 in the rear.

So as the title says, i was saving money for new leafs and 4 new shocks but i guess that will have to be on hold for the time being.

My issue is that the other day I was putting gas into the vehicle ( about half a tank full) and took it for a 5 to 10 mile drive since she does not get much attention because of no ins. or registration. The vehicle started and crank like normal, takes a couple of seconds and were good to drive. By the time i was heading home the jeep just died on me; there is power to the lights, i turn the key but now it cranks but does not start. So i was stranded.

My guess is that it is the fuel delivery system. The way i cam to this logic was that when i turn the key to the ignition i didn't hear the fuel pump anymore, plus when i checked the scharder (probably spelled it wrong) valve on the fuel line no fuel came out. With reading forums and only being able to dedicate short time to the jeep. I first checked the fuel ballast. But i remembered i removed it and bypassed it. Now I'm starting to think maybe i should buy one and put it in just in case. Then i checked the relay but nothing, i way i checked it was i used a new relay and tried all connections but still no sound. I need to check today is there are any fuses for the fuel pump and if i have time today ill check if there is power going to it.

I do have a side question, can it also be the CPS? I've read a couple forums that suggested it could be that also.

fb97xj1

Should be a fuse there somewhere. Easy enough to find one thats blown.

fb97xj1

I misread the year. Thought it said 98, not 88, which apparently doesnt use a fuse for this? Cruiser54 is the guy you need. Search for his user and click the link in his sig, or wait and he will probably find you. I dont do Renix, but my guess is a grounding issue.

97grand4.0

Many a dying fuel pump has been actually the wiring and or harness connections. People say grounds, which certainly it can be, but in my experience the harness that routes the tail lights and fuel pump and gauge wiring is frequently subject to the dreaded aluminum oxidation, aka 'green funk'. Also have found aluminum wires in the harness on old GM such as the caprice and Blazers. Fix was to locate the connectors and jumper them out, wire by wire. Have a handful of the Ideal wire nuts, I use the tan colored ones because they tighten down real good. Then load them up with antiox inhibiting grease like the stuff they sell in home depot electrical aisle, and tape the whole mess together with some good electricial tape.
Always happens during the worst weather of the year too.

freegdr

Napa carries a complete module. AFP E7091S

cruiser54

Adding a ballast resistor back in won't help you. Check the connector you worked on to bypass it.

Check the fuel pump relay.

Do you have a volt meter?

Check for power at the pump. If you have power and a good ground, hit the bottom of the tank with a 2 by 4 or something while cranking it over. The pump may start up.

For future reference, see the link below for inproving the ground.

http://cruiser54.com/?p=249

You need to do Tips 1 through 5 on my website too.

Batman33165

Thanks for ideas guys... freegdr, isnt that an airtex assy.? i just ask because a lot of people say to stay away from it?

fb97xj1, yea im reading cruisers page now, its tip 19. I know for sure i have not gone that far in his tips. I will though check what i said first, power and then ground.

As for 97grand4.0, i wouldn't worry about the harness. When i used to live in Virginia i had a lot of free time ( being single) well the previous owner had wires all over the place and put together with some kind of paste. So i cut it all off ( of course taking pictures and doing one wire at a time, and i rewired that harness.

Batman33165

lol nice timing cruiser.... was just writing this above as you put it in the comments

I do have a multi meter, is that the same? Im still learning how to use that thing, lucky for me there is youtube.

Batman33165

And sorry it is not tip 19... its 29

BlueRidgeMark

That's about the worse possible way to connect wires in a vehicle.


Use proper butt connectors, preferably the kind that has built-in heat shrink with adhesive inside.

freegdr

Stay away from the replacement pumps. I got mine from napa. Been 5 years now still going strong. Your choice I prefer plug and play with warranty.

Batman33165

Heres' an update... did not have a lot of time.

The first thing i did was remove all the relays and move them back and forth and none of them made a difference.

Then i used my test light and used the tip into all the connections in that fuse relay area, if i remember correctly with the ignition on 2 or 3 of the connectors light up the bulb.

The last thing i did before i needed to go do something was i did tip # 29, with splicing the negative wire and attached it to the chassis. I have to wait to get home plug in a new relay i bought and see if the combo helped ( relay + new ground connection)

Batman33165

I put in the new relay and nothing... just in case i tried in different relay sockets and still nothing.

The 2 center relay sockets on the passenger fender are giving power to light the test light but when i check it with the connector, through the wires that go from inside the cab to outside, and even at the wires where the ballast resistor was. I redid that wire just in case the splice i did was bad.

If i have time i will be splicing the wires in the connector to a straight power source like the battery and see if that does anything. If not i will try cleaning the cps, see if it does anything.

cruiser54

do you have power at the pump?

Batman33165

Not that i can tell...

i put in the new relay, had the wife put the key in ignition and used the circuit tester where i connected both wires from the ballast resistor. The bulb in the tester did not turn on. So i went to check at the connector and still the bulb did not light up