storm101

So heres my ordeal, I need to change my wheel hub, so i went and read all about it, gathered my tools, got the hub, everything went well until the 3 dreaded 12pt bolts.....they stripped out on me due to the heavy corrosion which tends to happen in my area, so now i have rust welded in stripped bolts, that im sure im going to end up cutting off somehow, anywho does anyone know where i can buy three brand new bolts for this thing?

and yes i used a ton of pb blast, and the correct 12pt socket....

I figure with some new bolts, a dremel, and a chisel i should be able to get the old unit out, but just want some info on where to check for the bolts!

Thanks in advance

caged

i tried to buy some... even tried to order them from the dealer.... not available.


best bet is to hit a junk yard for some.

i've had some hard to remove, stripped the heads off with my jeep sockets a.k.a. easy out sockets, so i had to weld some meat back on them to get a good bite with the jeep sockets to get them out.

that's how i know they're not available anywhere.

so with loads of anti-seize, i hope he has an easier time next time he has to remove a hub.

storm101

Ouch not what I wanted to hear...

but i have some good news, I did find some online!!

http://www.4wheelparts.com/prodDetai...No=JEP34201535

not super cheap for bolts, but itll do

5-90

They are threaded M8-1.25, match the length under the head. You can use a regular hex flange head or a hex socket head - use a least a PC9.8 hex head. Any socket head should be PC10.9 or better as a rule (unless you get Chinese crappola...)

Recall that many of these "specialty" screws need not be special. Another good example is the E12 3/8"-16 screws atop the bellhousing - pull them out, match them with hex heads of the same underhead length, and throw the E12s in the scrap bin. Easy!

If you're in the rust belt, I'd suggest lubricating them with lithium bearing grease (it's more resistant to displacement by water,) and torquing to 56-58 pound-feet to reflect the lubricity of the grease. Then, replace them each time you take them out (cheap insurance.)

For removal, since you're replacing the hub assembly anyhow, heat the corner of the base casting (of the hub assembly, not the knuckle) until it gets to about a dull red. Don't heat the screw directly - you want the hole to expand, not the screw so much. Then, touch a block of paraffin wax (or just a candle) to the juncture between the screw and the part, let the wax melt and wick in. Let it cool, and it should remove easily.

This is the trick I use to remove the pipe plugs at the back of an engine block (the ones that have been in place for 30-40 years.) It's best if you use the closest you can get to a pinpoint flame, and hotter flames are better (Oxy-acetylene > Oxy-MAPP > Oxy-Propane > MAPP > propane.) Hotter flames will cause the metal to expand more rapidly, which gives a greater gap for the wax to wick in to.

You'll also find it useful to clean the bore in the knuckle with a wire wheel, and apply lithium-based bearing grease there as well.

1) Typically, the fastener is heated, since it can be readily thrown away. I make an exception in this case because the fastener tip can be difficult to get to, and it sounds as though you're throwing out the bearing anyhow. If you're going to keep the bearing - heat the screw instead, and be sure to replace the screw.

2) Heating the fastener in this manner will wreck the heat-treatment, so make sure you already have a replacement on hand! Once you get the fastener out, throw it in the scrap metel bin immediately. If you do not, you might screw up and try to use it again.

3) In situations like this, lubricating the threads on assembly is advisable. Even using LocTite will help. Since FSM specs are for "clean, dry" threads, bear the following in mind:

LocTite - 100% of "clean, dry" torque
PTFE sealant paste - 90% of "clean, dry"
Engine Oil or Chassis grease - 75% of "clean, dry"
Never-seez - the jury is still out on this one. I'd learned a long time ago to use 50% of the "clean, dry" spec - but this seems to be less the case, and current never-seez lubes are supposed to be torqued to full spec. I'll believe it when I see it - I've seen an awful lot of threads pulled out of parts due to overtorquing when using never-seez.

Whatever you use, give the threads a good cleaning wherever possible. External threads may be cleaned using a wire wheel. Internal threads may be cleaned using a "thread chaser" (instead of a tap.) Thread chasers can often be found anywhere that has a good selection of actual taps, or may be made using a hardened screw (SAE8/ISO10.9 or better) and cutting two or three longwise flutes along the shank. Lubricate the screw and run it down the hole - every 3-5 full turns, back the screw all of the way out and clean out the flutes of accumulated crud. Rinse out the oil or grease using solvent (to get the last of the crud) before reassembly.

storm101

Well id just like to let everyone know that i ended up finding bolts, with the size of m12x90x1.75

12 being diameter, 90 length, and thread of 1.75, got em at napa for a total of just over 3$

I have the full cast rotor, so im not sure if the hole sizes between the cast/composite hubs are diff, but anywho these worked for me and i just wanted to share!

5-90

So they did change - I know that they were M8-1.25 while things were still RENIX. What year was your wee beastie again?

storm101

Its a 99

UserID6095

Just so I dont loose the above info. Thanks 5-90

gpXJ

^^^ Yup, me too! My rig spent the first 6 years of it's life in the D.C. area, so even though the body and frame have no rust, the under parts and wheel parts do. Thanks for the useful info!

UserID6095

Same boat here. No major body rust but suspension is rusted/welded on there pretty good.

gpXJ

Yeah, that is how mine looks. Going to attempt to get my rear sway off this weekend....but it's looking like it won't be as simple as it should be. Leafs, suspension, wheel hubs...it's all rusted up.... Doesn't look like a normal Texas rig, but at least the body and frame are rust-free!

UserID6095

Im going to dump this one and get one from the south or Texas. Here in Michigan everything rusts.

5-90

Likewise Indiana - that's where I grew up.

Famdelrio

My question is can I use my 1998 Xj axle with 2001 wj hub assembly?

CMS

I just wanted to say thank you for this information. We also needed a bolt and got it at NAPA.