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New Alternator, no charge (pics)

Old 10-17-2010, 06:02 PM
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Default New Alternator, no charge (pics)

Ive searched and wasnt able to find very much on this.
I replaced my alternator with a brand new one, after going mudding a few weeks ago and the old one stopped working.

Old Alternator: got home, battery died. Jumped it, and it died. Did this at least 5 or 6 times.

Got a new Alternator: installed. Jumped it, it died. Trickle charged the battery over night, it starts up the next morning on its own, but only seems to hold about 10amps. Revving doesnt fluctuate the battery gauge.

I uninstalled and reinstalled the Alternator many times, AutoZone said 'yup alternators bad'. (the brand new one!). So i take it out, go to replace it, its GOOD in the store. Had it tested at two AutoZones and it was good many times.

The Ground and Connector dont seem to be fried or damaged in any way.

Im not sure if there is a fuse for the Alternator that blew maybe..?

So here are pics of what Ive got, and I think where there may be a wiring issue keeping the new Alternator from charging the battery. I just dont know what stuff is, and I dont have a Chiltons..Ill probably go pick one up after my next paycheck, but in the mean time, anyone familiar with this and what may cause the Alternator to not be charging the Battery, Id appreciate the assistance!





Old 10-17-2010, 06:04 PM
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oh..and I know where the Alternator goes into, the bottom/first fuse block closest to the battery (which is removed). That other pic showing a black flat connector, comes off where the wiring goes into the fuse block, it goes to another part of the harness.

The ground and pigtail connector for the alternator seem fine, and were cleaned with electric cleaner.
Old 10-17-2010, 06:09 PM
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Try this take a set of jumper cables and connect one end to pot post on alt start the truck have some one sit inside and touch the other end of same cable to pos of bat just for a second see what happen if it charges better replace the factory cable
Old 10-17-2010, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Try this take a set of jumper cables and connect one end to pot post on alt start the truck have some one sit inside and touch the other end of same cable to pos of bat just for a second see what happen if it charges better replace the factory cable
The alternator only has two connections, the pigtail/electrical connection, and the ground wire.

The jumper cables have a neg/pos cable. Are you saying only use one single (either one in this case), clamp onto the ground bolt sticking out of the Alt, and run the other end of that same cable to the battery positive post?
Old 10-17-2010, 08:02 PM
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also, in that pic where you can see my finger pointing to the swelled rubber piece, that comes from the alternator. is that an inline fuse from the factory? if something blew in that, i guess i can cut and rewire a new piece..? but I dont know. AutoZone and the Haynes manual both were very little help. Im not great at reading those electrical topologies either in the back, but nothing seemed to route from the Alt to the fuse relay/solenoid.
Old 10-17-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dham99
also, in that pic where you can see my finger pointing to the swelled rubber piece, that comes from the alternator. is that an inline fuse from the factory? if something blew in that, i guess i can cut and rewire a new piece..? but I dont know. AutoZone and the Haynes manual both were very little help. Im not great at reading those electrical topologies either in the back, but nothing seemed to route from the Alt to the fuse relay/solenoid.


That might be your problem then. That "swelled rubber piece" is called a fuseable link. It it kinda like a fuse built into a wire. You might need to replace that.

Last edited by Aldakoopa; 10-17-2010 at 08:19 PM.
Old 10-17-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Aldakoopa
That might be your problem then. That "swelled rubber piece" is called a fuseable link. It it kinda like a fuse built into a wire. You might need to replace that.
I guess ill have to find a good electrical mapping and see what factory ampage that fusable link was/is...(if thats what that is)

then i should be able to just buy a inline fuse from AutoZone, and splice it after matching the gauge..right? If i cut that rubber off, and inspect it, i guess that will also tell me if its a fuse...
Old 10-17-2010, 08:23 PM
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either cable but do this on pos terminal on both the bigger wire on alt

Last edited by freegdr; 10-17-2010 at 08:29 PM.
Old 10-17-2010, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dham99
The alternator only has two connections, the pigtail/electrical connection, and the ground wire.

The jumper cables have a neg/pos cable. Are you saying only use one single (either one in this case), clamp onto the ground bolt sticking out of the Alt, and run the other end of that same cable to the battery positive post?
never touch pos to neg things go fizzle pop boom
Old 10-17-2010, 09:21 PM
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try getting it running and use a multi meter and see if the alternator is charging, if so then you got your self a wiring issue.
Old 10-17-2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
either cable but do this on pos terminal on both
i guess im not following...the alternator doesnt have a positive and negative terminal like a battery does..it has 2 wires. 1 is a 4pin connector, the other is a single, eye-hole ground wire that goes to the battery..I guess that could be a positive and not a 'ground', but there is not an alternate. simply those two connections on an alternator, period.

also, the Alt and battery have been tested positive many times from AutoZone. The problem is no charge from the Alt to the Batt. Its gotta be wiring/solenoid or relay.
Old 10-17-2010, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dham99
i guess im not following...the alternator doesnt have a positive and negative terminal like a battery does..it has 2 wires. 1 is a 4pin connector, the other is a single, eye-hole ground wire that goes to the battery..I guess that could be a positive and not a 'ground', but there is not an alternate. simply those two connections on an alternator, period.

also, the Alt and battery have been tested positive many times from AutoZone. The problem is no charge from the Alt to the Batt. Its gotta be wiring/solenoid or relay.
single eye hole one
Old 10-17-2010, 09:43 PM
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this just checks to see if enough current is getting thru that cable
Old 10-17-2010, 09:57 PM
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ilooked in my book check f10 40 amp fuse f8 60 amp fuse f 16 60 amp fuser that all the book says after that start checking connections
Old 10-18-2010, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
ilooked in my book check f10 40 amp fuse f8 60 amp fuse f 16 60 amp fuser that all the book says after that start checking connections
thanks for the info..ill look into the location of those and see if they are relavent and hope for the best!

it seems not very many ppl know much about these electrical systems, which surprises me because these jeeps are driven through water and mud and submerged constantly...I cant be the only one whos had this happen after mudding...

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