mideerslayer

Is there any tricks to getting it off, I tried the trick of leaving the nut on and prying it off, well the nut stripped under force.

I have used pb blaster on the shaft and it (the nss) is spinning on the shaft but will not come off.

I am trying to get it off in one piece so i can clean it and put it back on.

It seems that the thing is almost welded onto the shaft


Any tricks will be great and also with that shaft being stripped will it be ok that that nut doesnt go back on?

Thanks

Rich

Nor-CalJeeper

I just rebuilt my NSS it was a pita to get off I just used a big screwdriver towards the front of the NSS and lightly and slowly rocked it back and forth putting pressure on the NSS.

It took awhile but it finally came off, then i tore it down , cleaned it and rebuilt with dielectric grease.

One tip when you reinstall, The shaft you reinstall it onto pushes out of the other side of the transmission slightly which causes the nss to bind up the shifter inside the XJ making it hard to shift. The trick is to wrap your arm to the shift linkage on the drivers side of the tranny and push in on it to hold it in place then take a screwdriver handle and tape the nss back onto the shaft until it is FULLY seated against the tranny then tighten the adjustment bolt back down.

as for the shaft nut, you could probably get away with not running it it is only supposed to be lighlty tightened anyways.

bobvalli

I think the nut is gonna be kinda key to getting the NSS off. Maybe re-thread the collar with a hair smaller die? Then use a new smaller nut as a leverage point. Also some heat probably wouldn't hurt.

Maybe the attached pic will be some help

Squid

everything u need to know right here
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/

fishnchipz

Just did mine on one I pulled from the local junk yard.. The nut is DEF the key in getting it off, but don't forget there IS also another bolt, 12mm, that you have to remove from the case.. Mounting bolt ya know..?

Candorich

THX for the link....will be trying it soon....currently just missing backup lights....already been thru the no-start which was a CPS problem.

F1Addict

Use wood door shims (Home Depot, Lowes), two at the top, two at the bottom. Tap them in evenly between the NSS and trans housing, work in a circular motion and tap the output shaft with a urethane hammer after each complete revolution (or with a regular hammer but put a shim over the end of the shaft so you don't mess up the threads)

It's not difficult to crack the NSS housing, especially when prying on it with a screw driver. There are countless obscenity-strewn accounts right here on CF. The shim technique works, just be patient.

EDIT: I just read that BC4x4 write-up and they recommend prying on the nut. I wouldn't do that. The hollow threaded pinch-shaft is made of aluminum and breaks easily. Many people have tried this only to have the nut pop off, taking those soft aluminum threads with it. NSS = Toast.

cruiser54

I like this method the best.

Tom Patrick

I used the link that you gave and it was by far the best guide that I found on the net

awg

The thing I cannot stress enough, which the article does not..be VERY thoughtful on the prying...the rear of the switch is plastic

20+yr old plastic gets brittle with heat cycles

my method, I only pry carefully enough to get it started, then work back & forth on the shaft, lubed, and preferably with gloved fingers
(dang that sounds all wrong..u know what I mean!)

If you pry hard with a screwdriver when its half out, especially unevenly, you are at risk of cracking the plastic

I set the trans in neutral, and mark switch position b4 commence