Neutral Safety switch
11-19-2011, 04:51 PM
#31
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 High Output
I just bought a 97 xj with no reverse light and cel codes 0700 0705, getting the nss of the tranny is a pain in the a$$, i tried but ending up breaking it so ordered a new one for $45 from auto parts warehouse and dabbed a little motor oil on the shaft and it slid on with a little force, but all works great now and reverse lights work too!!
11-19-2011, 05:38 PM
#32
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Model: Cherokee
No problem, i was planning on cleaning mine as well and all the write ups about how to do it made it seem some what easy to get that thing to slide off the tranny but its a pain, it finally came off .... in pieces lol, anyways good luck
11-19-2011, 06:55 PM
#33
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I did this job today. Usual symptoms, went to take it out and clean it up. I couldn't get that **********************'in thing off the shift shaft for the life of me. Wound up finally breaking it off,..by pulling on it with my hands! I found that the corrosion lock between the steel shaft and the aluminum housing was the worst I've ever seen. My advice would be to simply eat the cash and buy another if it doesn't come off reasonably easy for you. I paid dang near 200 bucks for that thing. I'm still not sure if being wallet raped was worth it. I could have just jumpered it so it'd start in every gear, but my wife sometimes drives it. However you get it off, make damned sure you antiseize the heck out of the shaft when you reassemble it.
Last edited by fishfast41; 11-19-2011 at 06:57 PM. Reason: mispelling
11-20-2011, 06:06 PM
#34
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I did this job today. Usual symptoms, went to take it out and clean it up. I couldn't get that **********************'in thing off the shift shaft for the life of me. Wound up finally breaking it off,..by pulling on it with my hands! I found that the corrosion lock between the steel shaft and the aluminum housing was the worst I've ever seen. My advice would be to simply eat the cash and buy another if it doesn't come off reasonably easy for you. I paid dang near 200 bucks for that thing. I'm still not sure if being wallet raped was worth it. I could have just jumpered it so it'd start in every gear, but my wife sometimes drives it. However you get it off, make damned sure you antiseize the heck out of the shaft when you reassemble it.
11-21-2011, 07:58 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by BadThad
Anyone have any experience with the cheap ones from ebay for < $50?
11-21-2011, 08:59 AM
#37
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Same thing happened to me bout 10,000 miles ago. I thought my starter was out so I replaced my starter and she still wouldn't crank. My dad was out of town and told me not to screw with it no more and to get it towed to the shop. It ended up being the NSS and ran up a $500 bill at the shop:/
11-21-2011, 03:45 PM
#38
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Helped a friend of mine install one of his 98 xj yesterday that he got off of ebay from a seller named am-autoparts, $45 shipped to him, we test drove it for a while yesterday then took it to a few trails last night, so far so good i wouldnt hestitate to buy one from ebay, if he ends up having any problems ill post here but im sure its good.
11-21-2011, 03:46 PM
#39
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Same thing happened to me bout 10,000 miles ago. I thought my starter was out so I replaced my starter and she still wouldn't crank. My dad was out of town and told me not to screw with it no more and to get it towed to the shop. It ended up being the NSS and ran up a $500 bill at the shop:/
11-21-2011, 04:51 PM
#42
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-01-Jeep-G...item1e67411256
11-21-2011, 04:52 PM
#43
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Indeed....but...that depends on how tough it is to install. LOL I don't mind paying more for parts that are difficult, but everyone says this is about an hour or two of frustation....tolerable in my books.
11-21-2011, 08:09 PM
#44
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
To fix a NSS "No start" problem for around $5 go down to the passenger side of the transmission and locate the NSS.
Follow the wire to where it connects Near the engine and disconnect it. On the NSS, bend the metal tabs back in order to loosen the larger bolt. Loosen it a little then remove the other smaller, longer bolt then you can remove the larger one. There should be a rubber gasket thing behind the bolt so don't lose it. Take a flat head screw driver and CAREFULLY pry the NSS from the trans without twisting it! Once removed your faced with this,
Remove the smaller screw that hold the two cases together and this is what you should see,
Remove the moving arm
and the springs and smaller copper
Pieces,
Grab yourself a bottle of good ole brake parts cleaner and get to work shining EVERYTHING up!!
Here's what it should look like,
Put the copper and springs back in the arm
And the should stuck up a lot more now. Smear dielectric grease over all the internal parts,
Put here back together,
Put it back in the same way you removed it and try to get it perfectly aligned. Bend metal tabs back over.
Once reinstalled, put in park, crank. Put in neutral, the in reverse and see if brake lights come on. If every thing does not work like it should readjust the position of it until it all works.
Follow the wire to where it connects Near the engine and disconnect it. On the NSS, bend the metal tabs back in order to loosen the larger bolt. Loosen it a little then remove the other smaller, longer bolt then you can remove the larger one. There should be a rubber gasket thing behind the bolt so don't lose it. Take a flat head screw driver and CAREFULLY pry the NSS from the trans without twisting it! Once removed your faced with this,
Remove the smaller screw that hold the two cases together and this is what you should see,
Remove the moving arm
and the springs and smaller copper
Pieces,
Grab yourself a bottle of good ole brake parts cleaner and get to work shining EVERYTHING up!!
Here's what it should look like,
Put the copper and springs back in the arm
And the should stuck up a lot more now. Smear dielectric grease over all the internal parts,
Put here back together,
Put it back in the same way you removed it and try to get it perfectly aligned. Bend metal tabs back over.
Once reinstalled, put in park, crank. Put in neutral, the in reverse and see if brake lights come on. If every thing does not work like it should readjust the position of it until it all works.
Last edited by zombie jeep101; 11-21-2011 at 08:20 PM.
11-21-2011, 08:32 PM
#45
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Year: 1997, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Broke mine taking it off my 97 about 2 months ago. Picked one up from www.carpartswholesale.com for less than $50. Works great so far.