BimmerJeeper

I should fix this before winter sets in. If was going slower and slower until finally it stopped. I guess I should first check the fuse, in case the increased resistance blew the fuse. Are there any guidelines on how to remove and replace the rear wiper motor?

andrewmp6

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/w...-motor-928708/

crimsondragon

Increased resistance wouldn't blow a fuse, it'll just stop current. From the sounds of it, either the motor are done, or there's heavy corrosion on the wires.

Rambler65

Easy job, I did this on my '99, replaced with a junkyard wiper motor. Remove the wiper arm and the nut underneath. The rubber washer hose will just pull off. Open the hatch and remove the plastic inner cover. Upper part is fastened with screws, lower part with snaps. (I used a broad, flat metal tool to pry it up without damage.) Once inside there's a couple of bolts in rubber bushings that hold the motor assembly in place, and a single electrical connector.

Mine works fine now aside from not enough tension on the wiper arm. The arm on the junkyard unit has better tension but the washer nozzle is broken off it. So I'll try to source another wiper arm when I get the chance.

dans98xj

I would also check the wire harness going into the top of the tail gate. I had the same problem the motor would slow down then stop. Then it stopped all together. Those wires get fragile and break over time. I had to re-wire my whole harness a few weeks back new everything works.

Rambler65

Good point! Probably a good idea to check that the motor is getting full voltage before spending money on a replacement. (I got lucky and it did turn out to be the motor at fault. I was surprised to find it labeled "Made in France.")

BimmerJeeper

Thanks for the tips.

I will check the wire harness first.
Just look for exposed broken wires near the hinging points?

I will also test voltage at the wire to the motor.
It's been a while, so can you remind me if this is right?
I unplug the power connector from the motor
I place test leads onto the 2 prongs in the power cable harness.
When I press the switch and I should see 12V on the meter?
That means 12V is reaching the motor, and eliminates the switch or wires as the failure.

caged

most likely your motor.

if you can find a good one at the junkyard, be sure to get the plastic threaded part that the arm nut threads onto. that's the part that has the hose nipple. you will probably strip or break the threaded part trying to get the nut off. most are broken that i've found.

good luck and spares are always good to have too.

BimmerJeeper

The motor is part number 55154944AB

RockAuto also has WPS amd the Cardone brand for $80
At least that's an easy option.

Will it have the plastic parts you refer to?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cardone-85-444-Replacement-Rear-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Grommet-Bolt-Type-New-/301687972737?hash=item463e012381&vxp=mtr
WPS / POWER SELECT WPM444 {#55154944, 55154944AB} Info
$68.79 $0.00 $68.79

A-1 CARDONE 40444 {#55154944, 55154944AB} Reman Info
Rear; Motor without Washer Pump

Orlo

You're in luck bimmer. I just replaced my wiper motor last night so I have a write up for you.

1. Go on eBay and buy a used motor from someone with a return policy. Mine was 24 bucks shipped. Why a return policy? Because screw ups happen.

2. When the package arrives you open it up like its Christmas morning. Get excited man!!!!

3. Get your socket set, a 3/4 open end wrench, your torx set, a Phillips screwdriver and a strong putty knife. Oh.... And a single 12oz beer of your choice.

4. Open the beer and take a manly sip.

5. Remove the hatch panel and motor as described above. Take a hit off the beer each time you reach for a new tool.

6. Install your new motor and test it with the interior switch to make sure it works before you put your hatch panel back on. If it works, take another manly sip of beer to celebrate!

7. Put your hatch cover back on and enjoy what's left of your beer because it will still be cold. This is a 30 minute job. Don't overthink this.

BimmerJeeper

Nice price. I see $40, but seems too high for a used part known to fail.
I'll order the $80 repro that's new.

94XjSport94

This is bimmerjeeper, this is no 30 min job.

BimmerJeeper

I am at the 35 minute mark and am stuck on wiper arm removal.
I personally estimate 3 to 4 hours for this project.

I took off the nut and tube.
How do I actually remove the wiper arm?
The thing does not budge or have any play.
"Just pull it off" did not work.
I tried to pry it up with a screwdriver. No go.
I need precise specific directions, if anyone is capable of providing them.


While I am stuck with the wiper arm, I removed the inside trim.
I would like to test for power at the motor, but I also have no idea which wires to test for power.
The wires are: black, grey, brown, white.
Can someone tell me where the black and red test leads connect to? Thank you.

Orlo

Ok. This is going to be a 12 pack job for you, bimmer. Apply a little bit of pb blaster or equivalent to where the wiper arm meets the shaft. Then use the arm as leverage to wiggle it off the shaft.

BimmerJeeper

I was able to use a prybar to get the wiper arm off.

Next, I also tested the harness prong voltage for the black wire and got 12V.
Lucky, I got it on the first wire I tested. That never happens!!

I am now stuck on removing that 2nd nut.
What size is that 2nd lock washer bolt holding the shaft in place?
I tried my 22mm and 24mm wrenches.
What's SEA equiv. of 23mm? 15/16 ? Time to buy more tools!!!

I am now at the 1 hour mark.