My clutch pedal goes almost to the floor before barely engaging....any ideas??
#17
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Year: 1987
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Indeed! I posted pics here somewhere, I was very lucky. The tailcone of the tcase landed on the center of the jack, giving my head just enough space. If the jack was lower profile (shorter) or not rigbt where I put it, my head would have popped like a water baloon.
#19
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1993 Cherokee Sport 2wd (internal slave) AX-15 192,000 miles
Can anyone give me an idea of how best to seperate the hydraulic line from the clutch master from the slave cylinder?
Replaced the clutch master cylinder a few days ago which didn't solve the "no clutch pedal problem". In the process of bleeding it with a buddy working the clutch pedal it actually blew the line off at the slave cylinder. I reseated it at the time (should have left it off but fluid leaking) and now I'm replacing the clutch (believe the slave cylinder is shot) and need to seperate the line from the slave cylinder to back the bellhousing/transmission away from the block.
I've pulled on it pretty hard. Trying not to tear **** up. Any secret, or just muscle?
Can anyone give me an idea of how best to seperate the hydraulic line from the clutch master from the slave cylinder?
Replaced the clutch master cylinder a few days ago which didn't solve the "no clutch pedal problem". In the process of bleeding it with a buddy working the clutch pedal it actually blew the line off at the slave cylinder. I reseated it at the time (should have left it off but fluid leaking) and now I'm replacing the clutch (believe the slave cylinder is shot) and need to seperate the line from the slave cylinder to back the bellhousing/transmission away from the block.
I've pulled on it pretty hard. Trying not to tear **** up. Any secret, or just muscle?
#20
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's just a small flare fitting, but, its very easy to round off. I have special box end flare nut wrenches...the first time, I didn't, and just cut it off...post a pic!
#21
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working on picture, up shortly. There's not a threaded fitting there. Just a pressure fitting it appears - which seems strange with hydraulic pressure.
#22
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think i know what youre talkin bout...that fitting came with my clutch kit but was not on the line when I replaced it. I just tossed it...sorry man. I'm pretty sure its a quick disconnect, with a little spring loaded ball, so that when you uncouple it, fluid stays upstream of the slave and doesn't leak all over yer face.
Last edited by hankthetank; 05-12-2012 at 01:02 PM.
#23
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Here's the photo. You can see the bleeder screw. It's the other line running down from the master that's the issue. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Really don't want to replace that line by cutting it, trying the jeep back in service.
#24
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I think i know what youre talkin bout...that fitting came with my clutch kit but was not on the line when I replaced it. I just tossed it...sorry man. I'm pretty sure its a quick disconnect, with a little spring loaded ball, so that when you uncouple it, fluid stays upstream of the slave and doesn't leak all over yer face.
#28
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Model: Cherokee
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Had to take a quick second from the jeep. Twist and pull seemed to work. Came right off. I used more of a twist and shout on it - that could have helped too. Thanks again!
#29
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DarrellXJ
Had to take a quick second from the jeep. Twist and pull seemed to work. Came right off. I used more of a twist and shout on it - that could have helped too. Thanks again!
#30
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Hesco stroker
Alright, for the hell of it, I bled the system a few times before I started throwing parts at it. The pedal feels much better now. Only time will tell I guess.