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Looking for some help before I give up on my 88'

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Old 10-18-2014, 05:01 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
"MrKelly"who had a booger of a low idle problem found that although he had already checked it, swapping his MAP tube for one he picked up at the JY finally solved it. Not positive on all the details there, but thought I'd be sure you heard that.

Freedgr, the darn link won't open for me...probably my funky puter'...
Try again ....http://www.jeep.on-line.no/documenta...tion%20ssi.pdf
Old 10-21-2014, 07:36 PM
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Holy crap! BREAKING NEWS UPDATE!!!

I had some urge to unwrap the plastic heat thing that was around the wires coming out from what used to be my C101 connection. And I find some wires that have been soldered but not shrinked wrapped, but had electrical tape. So I open them up starting by the firewall. But I kept being bugged by this group of wires that had some tinfoil like wrapping. Naturally I unwrap to investigate, and I find this BARE wire going from what looks to be a negative connection. And it looks to run all the way to either the O2 sensor or Knock senor.

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So I unwrap and unwrap until I find some more electrical tape, so I unwrap that and looky looky, more soldered wires (unshrink wrapped) and one is broken!



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Hallelujah! Go to church and pray! I finally hope this is the source. I had to stop since its dinner time and I just came home from work. I will get the ASAP, hopefully this weekend.
Old 10-21-2014, 09:29 PM
  #228  
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I was not "thrilled", with the pic in post 88 of the c-101 bypass. Need to take your word on that. I can't say right off what the Yel/Blk wire is. I AM sure the knock sensor wire is shielded with grounded foil. My guess was that shielding ends...not to far from the knock sensor, but I don't know.

Supper! I'll poke around a bit on this end. I have my "lower sensor" wires all open to look at, and the diagrams....
Old 10-21-2014, 09:38 PM
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OK, this here link is right there in my sig, let's see if it posts OK here. Below the ECU, a little left it shows that yel/blk and the vilot..., (and the shielding grounding where it meets the injector harness. Go ahead and get that right, but I've got serious doubts that's the problem. Hope I'm very wrong!

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/91076b23.pdf
Old 10-21-2014, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr

HEY! Supper Gary. Yes, that works. Actually I have the FSM"s but my goal of checking the IAC, I guess is tough. (Without a Miller Tool #7558).

Supper link though, any Renix guy without the FSM should save that.

(pretty cool there, that comma between"IAC" and "I", Eh?), (much thanks, again)

Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-21-2014 at 09:51 PM.
Old 10-21-2014, 09:50 PM
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The heat wrap tinfoil stuff was done by someone else other than the factory. The wrap went over the two wires I pictured in my hand and they were wrapped in electrical tape. I need to pull the air box and see exactly where this leads and most likely replace that whole wire.

Yeah, I hate the look of the reconnect of the c101, I wish it turned out better but someone beforehand messed it up bad.

Last edited by bdcontraplayr; 10-22-2014 at 03:20 AM.
Old 10-21-2014, 10:01 PM
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OK, let us know...The diagram shows the two knock sensor wires shielded with..foil, not sure how far....

The bottom line booger is, I think the puter' will make it run at least OK, no mater what the knock sensor says. THAT SAID, if it uses a common 5v ECU feed with other sensors which is grounding, that could be a problem.

Not the 02, but the CTS, MAP & tps maybe share a 5v feed from the ECM with the Knock sensor.
Old 10-21-2014, 10:20 PM
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I might meter the MAP feed and jiggle the wires, likewise the TPS Flat, engine side plug.....Looking.....

OK...Terminal C on the MAP gets a 5V feed.

Terminal A on the TPS flat engine side connector, as well.

I serrousley doubt any of this is your issue, but with all the trouble you are having verifying that you have the proper feed to those two while giggling the wiring can't hurt anything!
Old 10-21-2014, 11:01 PM
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Fix the boogered wires first.
Old 10-22-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Fix the boogered wires first.
Especially now that they're all exposed nicely. Don't want to have to go back and pull off all the tape and heat shrink tubing again to fix something that wasn't "fixed".


I bet you'll have some additional trouble just from unwrapping all the wires. Lots of poor connections can become bad connections just from touching and moving the wires around.
Old 10-22-2014, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 67 GMC

I bet you'll have some additional trouble just from unwrapping all the wires. Lots of poor connections can become bad connections just from touching and moving the wires around.
Especially how old they are, I won't put it past me. I am glad I followed my gut feeling.
Old 10-23-2014, 10:42 AM
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dying to know how this drama ends.
Old 10-23-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Mill
dying to know how this drama ends.
I will try and get it done after work and update around 7 or 8p PST.
Old 10-23-2014, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bdcontraplayr
I will try and get it done after work and update around 7 or 8p PST.
Remember post 11? Suggesting Tip 5?
Old 10-23-2014, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Remember post 11? Suggesting Tip 5?
I swore I did it. I think I didn't put much effort into it then. But I was thinking it was something mechanical.

Really kicking myself in the *** now for pulling half the motor apart lol


Quick Reply: Looking for some help before I give up on my 88'



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