Ignition Switch Removal??
09-28-2009, 05:50 PM
#1
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Year: 1987
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Ignition Switch Removal??
how do you get the ignition switch off? because i need to replace it. im picking it up tomorrow from auto zone because i need a better one and not a "self locking one" of a ignition switch. do i need to take off my steering wheel or is it on my "stock" ignition that there will be a botton to push some how in the ignition with the kee?
09-28-2009, 05:59 PM
#2
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Year: 89
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If I read this right you want to remove your ignition switch that is on the colum?if so it is loacated on the colum at the bottom,held in by two bolts. It is easier to get to if you lower your colum down by removing the two 15mm nuts that hold the colum to the dash.
09-29-2009, 03:20 PM
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Year: 94 XJ
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If I read this right you want to remove your ignition switch that is on the colum?if so it is loacated on the colum at the bottom,held in by two bolts. It is easier to get to if you lower your colum down by removing the two 15mm nuts that hold the colum to the dash.
Switch is a snap. Read ABOVE^^^
Tumbler w/keys is a bit more involved. It WILL require steering wheel removal.
10-01-2009, 03:36 PM
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Year: 94 XJ
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Engine: 4.0L
There are TWO "special" tools you will need.
First is a steering wheel puller...thats a given. I will not go into detail on the use of it. Its pretty straight forward.
Second is a lock plate removal tool. This tool will push down on the lock-plate.
BOTH of these specialty tools can be acquired from any auto parts store with a loaner tool program.
If you do not know...A lock plate is what causes your steering wheel to CLICK into a locked position. A rod is pushed up into it. There are a series of notches along the edge that the rod catches...locking the steering.
This plate will be what you see when you remove the steering wheel.
Its big, black and covers the entire top of the column.
This plate is retained by a small wire c-clip. Its small.
There is a huge spring on the backside that presses this plate to the retaining clip.
Screw the Removal tool onto the top of the column where the steering wheel nut was. Twist the wing nut on the tool and this will push the lock plate down.
Now you have access to the lockplate retaining clip.
This is where the "fun" starts.
You need to get two itty-bitty screwdrivers in there and TRY to get this clip ou. I have done it hundreds of times and I can clearly say: Its a ROYAL PITA. But it can be done.
Now after you have used every word in the book and then some, take the removal tool off.
Place the clip somewhere it won't get lost.
Pull off: Lock Plate/BLACK
Horn actuator housing/ GREEN or WHITE
Tension spring/ BIG and often GREASY.
Now you are looking at your turn signal assembly. You are almost there.
The assembly is held in with 3-4 Phillips head screws.They are big and black and reside in little holes under the first layer of the assembly.
Have no idea what I mean????
Signal a right turn.
The piece of plastic that moves is the first layer. Under it you will see a stationary piece. In that piece you will find the mounting screws.
You will have to "signal left" and "signal right" to get access to these screws.
Before you go and yank that puppy out....You need to unscrew your "hazard signal" ****.
Also you will need to remove the screw that is to the far left. This attaches the turn signal lever to the assembly. This screw holds in a small metal clip....don't lose this either.
The only thing left that is keeping you from accessing the tumbler is the turn signal assembly wires.
CAREFULLY pull up on the assembly.
If the wires give resistence...don't pull. You will only damage the wires and you will be replacing the turn signal assembly.
Sometimes there is enough wire to get it over the end of the column shaft.
If not, the connector at the bottom is usually clipped to the underside of the column.
FLAT and wide. Just unclip it from its home and there should be enough wire.
TADA. You're where you want to be.
You need a needle nosed pliers to pull a set of copper contacts out from the back of the tumbler. Pull them straight up and note the direction they point.
Depending on the style of lock tumbler assembly you have its held in by one of two means.
Easiest is the retaining screw. Unscrew...remove old instal new and reverse everything.
They other way isw yet ANOTHER retaining clip. Simply push it in with a flat screwdriver while wiggling the old tumbler out. Install new and the clip should just pop into its slot.
Now its all a matter of reversing everything you've done up to this point.
NOTES:
1. Before removing steering wheel--make sure its straight. Makes for easier alignment during re-assembly.
2. Horn Actuator Hub and Lock Plate only go back in in a certain direction. There are prongs on the inside...one is missing. Has the same pattern on column shaft..you will see.
3. The Lock Plate Removal tool doubles as an INSTALLATION tool. Slide the spring/horn actuator hub and lockplate onto shaft. Slide lockplate retainer ring on NOW..trust me. Install the "removal" tool and compress the lockplate down. Cram that stupid little clip into its groove.
4. If your cell phone has a camera...USE IT. Snap as many pics of every step.This will aid greatly when it comes time for re-assembly.
DAYUM...My fingers are tired
First is a steering wheel puller...thats a given. I will not go into detail on the use of it. Its pretty straight forward.
Second is a lock plate removal tool. This tool will push down on the lock-plate.
BOTH of these specialty tools can be acquired from any auto parts store with a loaner tool program.
If you do not know...A lock plate is what causes your steering wheel to CLICK into a locked position. A rod is pushed up into it. There are a series of notches along the edge that the rod catches...locking the steering.
This plate will be what you see when you remove the steering wheel.
Its big, black and covers the entire top of the column.
This plate is retained by a small wire c-clip. Its small.
There is a huge spring on the backside that presses this plate to the retaining clip.
Screw the Removal tool onto the top of the column where the steering wheel nut was. Twist the wing nut on the tool and this will push the lock plate down.
Now you have access to the lockplate retaining clip.
This is where the "fun" starts.
You need to get two itty-bitty screwdrivers in there and TRY to get this clip ou. I have done it hundreds of times and I can clearly say: Its a ROYAL PITA. But it can be done.
Now after you have used every word in the book and then some, take the removal tool off.
Place the clip somewhere it won't get lost.
Pull off: Lock Plate/BLACK
Horn actuator housing/ GREEN or WHITE
Tension spring/ BIG and often GREASY.
Now you are looking at your turn signal assembly. You are almost there.
The assembly is held in with 3-4 Phillips head screws.They are big and black and reside in little holes under the first layer of the assembly.
Have no idea what I mean????
Signal a right turn.
The piece of plastic that moves is the first layer. Under it you will see a stationary piece. In that piece you will find the mounting screws.
You will have to "signal left" and "signal right" to get access to these screws.
Before you go and yank that puppy out....You need to unscrew your "hazard signal" ****.
Also you will need to remove the screw that is to the far left. This attaches the turn signal lever to the assembly. This screw holds in a small metal clip....don't lose this either.
The only thing left that is keeping you from accessing the tumbler is the turn signal assembly wires.
CAREFULLY pull up on the assembly.
If the wires give resistence...don't pull. You will only damage the wires and you will be replacing the turn signal assembly.
Sometimes there is enough wire to get it over the end of the column shaft.
If not, the connector at the bottom is usually clipped to the underside of the column.
FLAT and wide. Just unclip it from its home and there should be enough wire.
TADA. You're where you want to be.
You need a needle nosed pliers to pull a set of copper contacts out from the back of the tumbler. Pull them straight up and note the direction they point.
Depending on the style of lock tumbler assembly you have its held in by one of two means.
Easiest is the retaining screw. Unscrew...remove old instal new and reverse everything.
They other way isw yet ANOTHER retaining clip. Simply push it in with a flat screwdriver while wiggling the old tumbler out. Install new and the clip should just pop into its slot.
Now its all a matter of reversing everything you've done up to this point.
NOTES:
1. Before removing steering wheel--make sure its straight. Makes for easier alignment during re-assembly.
2. Horn Actuator Hub and Lock Plate only go back in in a certain direction. There are prongs on the inside...one is missing. Has the same pattern on column shaft..you will see.
3. The Lock Plate Removal tool doubles as an INSTALLATION tool. Slide the spring/horn actuator hub and lockplate onto shaft. Slide lockplate retainer ring on NOW..trust me. Install the "removal" tool and compress the lockplate down. Cram that stupid little clip into its groove.
4. If your cell phone has a camera...USE IT. Snap as many pics of every step.This will aid greatly when it comes time for re-assembly.
DAYUM...My fingers are tired
10-02-2009, 08:00 PM
#7
MJ>XJ
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look at my write up on the steering wheel tilt acting broke... loose steering wheel... step by step intructions... cause i had to take it out to get to what i was doing... with pictures! lol
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10-02-2009, 08:34 PM
#8
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Year: 1991
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There are TWO "special" tools you will need.
First is a steering wheel puller...thats a given. I will not go into detail on the use of it. Its pretty straight forward.
Second is a lock plate removal tool. This tool will push down on the lock-plate.
BOTH of these specialty tools can be acquired from any auto parts store with a loaner tool program.
If you do not know...A lock plate is what causes your steering wheel to CLICK into a locked position. A rod is pushed up into it. There are a series of notches along the edge that the rod catches...locking the steering.
This plate will be what you see when you remove the steering wheel.
Its big, black and covers the entire top of the column.
This plate is retained by a small wire c-clip. Its small.
There is a huge spring on the backside that presses this plate to the retaining clip.
Screw the Removal tool onto the top of the column where the steering wheel nut was. Twist the wing nut on the tool and this will push the lock plate down.
Now you have access to the lockplate retaining clip.
This is where the "fun" starts.
You need to get two itty-bitty screwdrivers in there and TRY to get this clip ou. I have done it hundreds of times and I can clearly say: Its a ROYAL PITA. But it can be done.
Now after you have used every word in the book and then some, take the removal tool off.
Place the clip somewhere it won't get lost.
Pull off: Lock Plate/BLACK
Horn actuator housing/ GREEN or WHITE
Tension spring/ BIG and often GREASY.
Now you are looking at your turn signal assembly. You are almost there.
The assembly is held in with 3-4 Phillips head screws.They are big and black and reside in little holes under the first layer of the assembly.
Have no idea what I mean????
Signal a right turn.
The piece of plastic that moves is the first layer. Under it you will see a stationary piece. In that piece you will find the mounting screws.
You will have to "signal left" and "signal right" to get access to these screws.
Before you go and yank that puppy out....You need to unscrew your "hazard signal" ****.
Also you will need to remove the screw that is to the far left. This attaches the turn signal lever to the assembly. This screw holds in a small metal clip....don't lose this either.
The only thing left that is keeping you from accessing the tumbler is the turn signal assembly wires.
CAREFULLY pull up on the assembly.
If the wires give resistence...don't pull. You will only damage the wires and you will be replacing the turn signal assembly.
Sometimes there is enough wire to get it over the end of the column shaft.
If not, the connector at the bottom is usually clipped to the underside of the column.
FLAT and wide. Just unclip it from its home and there should be enough wire.
TADA. You're where you want to be.
You need a needle nosed pliers to pull a set of copper contacts out from the back of the tumbler. Pull them straight up and note the direction they point.
Depending on the style of lock tumbler assembly you have its held in by one of two means.
Easiest is the retaining screw. Unscrew...remove old instal new and reverse everything.
They other way isw yet ANOTHER retaining clip. Simply push it in with a flat screwdriver while wiggling the old tumbler out. Install new and the clip should just pop into its slot.
Now its all a matter of reversing everything you've done up to this point.
NOTES:
1. Before removing steering wheel--make sure its straight. Makes for easier alignment during re-assembly.
2. Horn Actuator Hub and Lock Plate only go back in in a certain direction. There are prongs on the inside...one is missing. Has the same pattern on column shaft..you will see.
3. The Lock Plate Removal tool doubles as an INSTALLATION tool. Slide the spring/horn actuator hub and lockplate onto shaft. Slide lockplate retainer ring on NOW..trust me. Install the "removal" tool and compress the lockplate down. Cram that stupid little clip into its groove.
4. If your cell phone has a camera...USE IT. Snap as many pics of every step.This will aid greatly when it comes time for re-assembly.
DAYUM...My fingers are tired
First is a steering wheel puller...thats a given. I will not go into detail on the use of it. Its pretty straight forward.
Second is a lock plate removal tool. This tool will push down on the lock-plate.
BOTH of these specialty tools can be acquired from any auto parts store with a loaner tool program.
If you do not know...A lock plate is what causes your steering wheel to CLICK into a locked position. A rod is pushed up into it. There are a series of notches along the edge that the rod catches...locking the steering.
This plate will be what you see when you remove the steering wheel.
Its big, black and covers the entire top of the column.
This plate is retained by a small wire c-clip. Its small.
There is a huge spring on the backside that presses this plate to the retaining clip.
Screw the Removal tool onto the top of the column where the steering wheel nut was. Twist the wing nut on the tool and this will push the lock plate down.
Now you have access to the lockplate retaining clip.
This is where the "fun" starts.
You need to get two itty-bitty screwdrivers in there and TRY to get this clip ou. I have done it hundreds of times and I can clearly say: Its a ROYAL PITA. But it can be done.
Now after you have used every word in the book and then some, take the removal tool off.
Place the clip somewhere it won't get lost.
Pull off: Lock Plate/BLACK
Horn actuator housing/ GREEN or WHITE
Tension spring/ BIG and often GREASY.
Now you are looking at your turn signal assembly. You are almost there.
The assembly is held in with 3-4 Phillips head screws.They are big and black and reside in little holes under the first layer of the assembly.
Have no idea what I mean????
Signal a right turn.
The piece of plastic that moves is the first layer. Under it you will see a stationary piece. In that piece you will find the mounting screws.
You will have to "signal left" and "signal right" to get access to these screws.
Before you go and yank that puppy out....You need to unscrew your "hazard signal" ****.
Also you will need to remove the screw that is to the far left. This attaches the turn signal lever to the assembly. This screw holds in a small metal clip....don't lose this either.
The only thing left that is keeping you from accessing the tumbler is the turn signal assembly wires.
CAREFULLY pull up on the assembly.
If the wires give resistence...don't pull. You will only damage the wires and you will be replacing the turn signal assembly.
Sometimes there is enough wire to get it over the end of the column shaft.
If not, the connector at the bottom is usually clipped to the underside of the column.
FLAT and wide. Just unclip it from its home and there should be enough wire.
TADA. You're where you want to be.
You need a needle nosed pliers to pull a set of copper contacts out from the back of the tumbler. Pull them straight up and note the direction they point.
Depending on the style of lock tumbler assembly you have its held in by one of two means.
Easiest is the retaining screw. Unscrew...remove old instal new and reverse everything.
They other way isw yet ANOTHER retaining clip. Simply push it in with a flat screwdriver while wiggling the old tumbler out. Install new and the clip should just pop into its slot.
Now its all a matter of reversing everything you've done up to this point.
NOTES:
1. Before removing steering wheel--make sure its straight. Makes for easier alignment during re-assembly.
2. Horn Actuator Hub and Lock Plate only go back in in a certain direction. There are prongs on the inside...one is missing. Has the same pattern on column shaft..you will see.
3. The Lock Plate Removal tool doubles as an INSTALLATION tool. Slide the spring/horn actuator hub and lockplate onto shaft. Slide lockplate retainer ring on NOW..trust me. Install the "removal" tool and compress the lockplate down. Cram that stupid little clip into its groove.
4. If your cell phone has a camera...USE IT. Snap as many pics of every step.This will aid greatly when it comes time for re-assembly.
DAYUM...My fingers are tired
most tumblers you just need the key
and a all to push in the locking button
turn the key back wards past acc and pull it out
10-03-2009, 10:37 AM
#9
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PICS PLEASE
I have NEVER seen one of these "locking buttons"
My 91 and 94 do not have one, they have a retaining screw. Just like Huntingman's
Thanks Huntingman...I borrowed your pic. I didn't have time to tear one of mine apart.
10-04-2009, 01:15 PM
#11
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but every ford or Chevy I have ever worked on has had it
just a small hole on the front or side of the tumbler
you must have a key in then depress the locking button with a small rod
then it allows you to rotate the tumbler back past acc then it will slide out
vary simple proses
10-05-2009, 12:31 AM
#12
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Year: 1989
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Engine: straight 6
it was the same on my 89 had the screw and you can actually use a GM tumbler in it i got mine for 11bucks at autozone they didnt have the jeep one but its the exact same thing and worked when you buy the tumbler it should have instructions on how to do it mine did also i know the autozones here do a tool load for the 2 that you need you just leave a 40dollar deposit and then when you bring it back they give it all back to you
10-05-2009, 07:14 AM
#13
MJ>XJ
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only tool i had to loan from autozone was the steering wheel pully... in fact that whole "how to"above pretty much took it apart with only special tool being the steering wheel pully... well u didnt have to have it but the special tool that pulls the pins out of the sides bt u dont need this unless your taking it completely apart...
10-05-2009, 03:16 PM
#14
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You can get by without the lockplate tool.
But if you don't have someone to push the plate down for you....the lockplate tool is invaluable.
No.. "Are you done yet? My fingers are getting tired." or "What the heck is the problem? That should just pop out."
The only guy I can stand to work alongside is currently busy building rat-rods.
But if you don't have someone to push the plate down for you....the lockplate tool is invaluable.
No.. "Are you done yet? My fingers are getting tired." or "What the heck is the problem? That should just pop out."
The only guy I can stand to work alongside is currently busy building rat-rods.
10-05-2009, 04:58 PM
#15
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lol... i did it by myself... twice now actually... flat head to pop the ring and the back side of a rubber screw driver to push the spring in just enough... and i had to sit all the way in the seat so i could push into it... lol... doesnt matter though... im sure it would be alot easier with this tool... yall have fun... im not messing with steering columns anymore... lol... id rather pull a motor...
