I need diff help - Page 3

fantic238 · 11-12-2009, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrJCRod

Frank, I'm not saying that you're an ***** but really, it makes newbies and even some experienced guys gun shy to post because of responses like yours...

Hehe, he is the bad guy, we are all so scared...

fantic238 · 11-12-2009, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ

not really. the ring and pinion are the weakest part.

I mean, after 200 miles that you installed it, isn't that strange? makes me think...

JeepCoMJ · 11-12-2009, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fantic238

I mean, after 200 miles that you installed it, isn't that strange? makes me think...

lol, about what.

I didn't do anything to the internals except inspect them (they were fine) and inspect the wheel bearings. the axle had 120k on it, and was a non c-clip.

I didn't even get a chance to do burnouts or anything before then. I actually installed it, drove it to work, back, then 1.5 hours to a fellow comancheclub member's house to pick him up and bring him to my house so he could buy a comanche from a guy who lived down by me. on the way back is when it started shooting teeth literally through the cover.

I don't know much history on the vehicle it came out of, except that it was a daily driven vehicle, and I was the third owner of the vehicle...it had regular maintenance other than they never washed the salt off in the winter (thus parts vehicle).

sometimes they break, sometimes they don't.

fantic238 · 11-12-2009, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ

lol, about what.
I actually installed it,

That.
I beleive that 99% of ring and pinion failure is due to regearing and incorrect installation, when lubricant is present.
I don't want to say with this that you installed the diff in a wrong way,
but i say that obtaining the correct toe and heel contact pattern is a science.
I personally have done this many times, i read tons of manuals about this and i still get some failure occasionally. This is very frustrating because when you finally think you own the method it happens again and all your theories about it lose value.
I arrived to install a temperature sensor on the housing to monitor the heat increment and avoid the breaking but you just can't get it like the factory installation.
I have noticed that with the higher ratios it is more frequent, prolly because the torque is higher.

JeepCoMJ · 11-12-2009, 07:11 AM

I installed a complete replacement axle, not gears. I've never done gears. I just replace axles when they break...have enough of them, and it takes less time than gears.

85on32+4 · 11-12-2009, 02:13 PM

god

mn just go buy a stinkin 8.25..im on my second d35 in 3 months..they are fine for stock tires under daily driving conditions...
anything more is no garuntees.

get c8.25.
big *** tires.
lift and what have you.
be done with it
my two cents

Donnie_K · 11-12-2009, 04:49 PM

I agree, get the 8.25... don't listen to some guy rant about how great his d35 is on the highway... you bought a jeep, you don't plan on just cruising mall parking lots with those 33's, do you?

stan'sredxj · 11-13-2009, 08:11 AM

I see that there's quite a difference of opinion. I can get a Dana 44 for about $300 from a JY where he pulls it. Not bad in my book. Do I have to change the front axle when I change the rear? I'm assuming that I have to at least change the front gearing, right??? Thanks for all your input

fantic238 · 11-13-2009, 09:03 AM

Yes, you have to match the new gear ratio.

Mike H. · 11-13-2009, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stan'sredxj

I've got a dana 35 with a noise every time I let off the gas. The guy at the parts place said that it might be my u-joints, so I replaced them...Still have the noise. It sounds like a vibration/grinding noise.

Could it be the rear seal bearing??? I'm running 31's and am planning on changing my gears to 4:11 so I can slap on 33's.

I didn't see any problems when I checked the gear oil. I'm at a loss. thanks for any help.

Do you run a hack and tap SYE?

If you plan on going to 33's, I would suggest 2 things... 4.56 gearing, and an 8.25 with 29spline shafts if you offroad.

Donnie_K · 11-14-2009, 03:21 AM

if it's out of an xj, most of them have the 3.07 gears front and back and will match... that doesn't mean some of them weren't changed, or wasn't a model that had a different gearing though... you gotta make sure front and rear gears are matched.

Donnie_K · 11-14-2009, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike H.

Do you run a hack and tap SYE?

If you plan on going to 33's, I would suggest 2 things... 4.56 gearing, and an 8.25 with 29spline shafts if you offroad.

what he said. or a happy median at least.

JeepCoMJ · 11-14-2009, 03:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donnie_K

if it's out of an xj, most of them have the 3.07 gears front and back and will match... that doesn't mean some of them weren't changed, or wasn't a model that had a different gearing though... you gotta make sure front and rear gears are matched.

now that's not right.

a 5 speed 4.0 xj will have 3.07 gears, MAYBE 3.55's if it's one in a million

an automatic 4.0 will have 3.55's, if you're lucky 3.73 with the tow package and MAYBE 3.07's if it's one in a million.

2.5 5 speed is 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, generally a 4.10 and one chance in a million that it's 3.55's
2.5 4 speed will have 3.55 or 3.73
2.5 auto will have 4.10, 4.56, and IIRC there are a select few that *may* have had 4.88's but good luck finding that.

fantic238 · 11-16-2009, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ

now that's not right.

a 5 speed 4.0 xj will have 3.07 gears, MAYBE 3.55's if it's one in a million

an automatic 4.0 will have 3.55's, if you're lucky 3.73 with the tow package and MAYBE 3.07's if it's one in a million.

2.5 5 speed is 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, generally a 4.10 and one chance in a million that it's 3.55's
2.5 4 speed will have 3.55 or 3.73
2.5 auto will have 4.10, 4.56, and IIRC there are a select few that *may* have had 4.88's but good luck finding that.

Do you know also what the diesel gears are?

JeepCoMJ · 11-16-2009, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fantic238

Do you know also what the diesel gears are?

yes. good luck finding one (and if you do you better be looking @ it for more than parts axles...at least let everyone else know where it is, or if u buy the whole thing then sell someone (like me) the rest of it...)

turbo diesel is 4.10 with a 5 speed, 4.56 with auto tho it's more common to be 4.10.

possible 4.88 with a 2.1 diesel, auto, non-tubro

...I've got an 86 MJ factory 2.1 turbo, ax5 5 speed, np207, 4x4, amc 20 rear. all original...and in dire need of a restore before it rusts apart.

11-12-2009, 07:11 AM	#35
JeepCoMJ CF Veteran Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 1,130 My Photos 1987 Year: 1987 Engine: 4.0 Transmission: aw4 Transfer Case: 231 SYE Front Axle: hp dana 30 disco 4.11's Rear Axle: dana 44 4.09's Tires: 33x10.50 BFG AT/KO's Lift Specifications: Comanche. 6.5" RC w/ YJ brake lines, SOA rear lift with dakota brake hose. upgrading to '95 HO Misc Accessories: built front bumper, manual vacuum disconnect, etc.	I installed a complete replacement axle, not gears. I've never done gears. I just replace axles when they break...have enough of them, and it takes less time than gears. __________________ 86 comanche 3800 camaro powered...mid-re-rebuild (ax15, 99+ swap) 87 comanche 4.0 H.O bored .030 2001 intake borla header 62mmTB, aw4, SYE 231, d30/44 4.10's, 7" lift (RE TB/bracket, RC springs adj. CA, SOA rear) custom front+rear bumper, full skids, roll bar, tuffy lock box all options (95xj HO convert) 35x12.50 m/t cragar soft 8's

11-12-2009, 02:13 PM	#36
85on32+4 Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 242 My Photos 1985 Cherokee Year: 1985 Model: Cherokee Engine: 2.5 liter Transmission: 5 speed Transfer Case: i dunno Front Axle: d30 Rear Axle: d35 Tires: 32 wild country Lift Specifications: 4 in rough country Misc Accessories: sliced bumpers sunroof cargo rack	godmn just go buy a stinkin 8.25..im on my second d35 in 3 months..they are fine for stock tires under daily driving conditions... anything more is no garuntees. get c8.25. big *** tires. lift and what have you. be done with it my two cents __________________ According to a recent survey,9 in 10 americans agree that 1 in 10 americans will disagree with the other 9.

11-12-2009, 04:49 PM	#37
Donnie_K Seasoned Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 423 My Photos 1997 Cherokee Year: 1997 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0L Inline 6 Transmission: AX15 (5 Speed Manual) Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31" Kumho Road Venture M/T KL71's Lift Specifications: 4.5" Rough Country Short arm Misc Accessories: Iron Rock Adjustable Track Bar, Flowmaster Delta Flow 40, Crager Soft 8's with 4" BS	I agree, get the 8.25... don't listen to some guy rant about how great his d35 is on the highway... you bought a jeep, you don't plan on just cruising mall parking lots with those 33's, do you? __________________ http://www.darksidereptiles.com

11-13-2009, 09:03 AM	#39
fantic238 CF provocator Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 3,440 My Photos 1988 limited Cherokee Year: 1988 limited Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0 litre Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: np242 Front Axle: dana30 high pinion Rear Axle: dana35 non c-clip limited slip diff Tires: 31x10.50 yokohama super digger Lift Specifications: 3.5 in rough country Misc Accessories: audi A6 electric fans, gibson 3in stainless steel exhaust, tank & tc skid plate, light bar, propane	Yes, you have to match the new gear ratio. __________________ Memento audere semper "god said rock and then came ledZeppelin" For CAD geeks here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/how...-bumper-27077/

11-14-2009, 03:21 AM	#41
Donnie_K Seasoned Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 423 My Photos 1997 Cherokee Year: 1997 Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0L Inline 6 Transmission: AX15 (5 Speed Manual) Transfer Case: NP231 Front Axle: Dana 30 Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25 Tires: 31" Kumho Road Venture M/T KL71's Lift Specifications: 4.5" Rough Country Short arm Misc Accessories: Iron Rock Adjustable Track Bar, Flowmaster Delta Flow 40, Crager Soft 8's with 4" BS	if it's out of an xj, most of them have the 3.07 gears front and back and will match... that doesn't mean some of them weren't changed, or wasn't a model that had a different gearing though... you gotta make sure front and rear gears are matched. __________________ http://www.darksidereptiles.com

11-13-2009, 08:11 AM	#38
stan'sredxj Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 53 My Photos 1990 2door Cherokee Year: 1990 2door Model: Cherokee Engine: 4.0L Tires: 31 X 10.50 X 15 Lift Specifications: 3.5 Misc Accessories: shocks, alt, rockers, lift, fuel filter, water pump, alot of after market "fixing"	I see that there's quite a difference of opinion. I can get a Dana 44 for about $300 from a JY where he pulls it. Not bad in my book. Do I have to change the front axle when I change the rear? I'm assuming that I have to at least change the front gearing, right??? Thanks for all your input

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