huntsman

I have a 98 cherokee xj auto and im thinking about replacing the solenoids. It seems like it wont shift into 2nd gear.

When driving it goes from 1st to 4th and i can manually shift it into 3rd and it goes in but 2nd will not. Figured i will replace all the solenoids while i have the pan dropped but before i do that is there a way to test them to make sure its the problem?

I read that it can also be the NSS but all im getting is the generic p0700 transmission code. Would i have more codes if the solenoid was bad?

what do you guys think?

I dont have much free time so any order to testing would be good as to where i should start.

I did check the kick down cable and thats good, i replaced the TPS and it didnt help. I was thinking about cleaning the NSS before i do the Solenoids but im not sure what is causing the shifting problem.

huntsman

from my research it looks like this

gear 1 solenoid 1 is on and 2 is off
gear 2 solenoid 1 is on and 2 is on
gear 3 solenoid 1 is off and 2 is on
gear 4 solenoid 1 is off and 2 is off

so if the jeep is skipping from 1 to 4 then it seems like solenoid 2 is not working properly am i thinking this correctly ??

XJRed96

you need to have the TCM scanned. the p0700 fault is just telling you that there is a fault in the transmission control module. most generic code readers will only access the ECM. once you get the codes pulled from the trans we can go from there. I'm not sure but i think there is a way to pull codes from the trans via the instrument cluster but don't quote me on that.

cruiser54

You can test the resistance of the solenoids at the connector near the trans dipstick tube.

Perhaps CCKen will chime in.

CCKen

Yes, you can test the TCM inputs, including the solenoids resistance, from the TCM connector.


It's a PITA but worth the effort in order to eliminate any bad input.


You'll need a digital Volt/Ohmmeter and a safety pin.


Refer to the connector pinouts and procedures images below.


Gain access to the TCM by removing the plastic trim panel and the steel knee blocker from under the steering column. The TCM is located just to the right of the steering column.


Remove the connector from the TCM.


Read the pinouts and procedures before beginning


For the resistance readings remove the battery NEG post connector (reattach for voltage checks).


The red entries on the pinouts are my notes.


Use the safety pin inserted in pin cavity 24 on the TCM connector for attaching the meter - probe. Makes it easier to probe the other pin cavities with the + probe.


TCM location:



.



Pinouts:



.


Procedures:



.

IJM

I had a similar problem recently, and here's a helpful thread I started on it. You'll see similar pointers from CCKen in there.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/doe...-legit-195669/

huntsman

thank you guys so much! I will get started on it tomorrow. So I went through your thread and seems like it probably is a solenoid prob for me as well. I will do the testing and see what I get.

Im also thinking about doing a poor mans flush on the tranny to get new fluid in there.

CCKen

If you end up changing the solenoids you drain out about 3-4 quarts of fluid, so I would just refill with same amount drained with new DEXRON III/MERCON fluid when it's all buttoned up. Then drain/refill again in a few miles of driving.

CCKen

Good to see you recycled your thread. Very nice.

huntsman

ok i see so just pretty much drain and refill until the new fluid takes over.

CCKen

It won't take over 100%, even if you flush the system (do not BTW). Normally if you drain and refill about three times (9-10 quarts) it will be about 85% fresh when you're done.

BlueRidgeMark

Depends what you mean by "flush". Some shops use a pressurized flush that can cause problems, up to and including destroying your transmission.

But simply replacing ALL of your fluid in one shot by using the transmission's own pump is perfectly safe. See my sig #3 for how to do it.

But if your fluid looks decent already, don't bother. Just replace what you lose, like Ken said.

DFlintstone

Not to "argue" Mark. I'm just a couch aw-4 guy. (have joked if I had taken auto trans and chemistry in school, I'd known everything).

A full flush. (pressure or not), just might free chunks that would be better gently dissolved with repeated smaller changes. Idk....that's just what I seem to be hearing, and it does make some sense. Conditions vary. I myself will stay on the safe side of that one. I'd rather be "surgical", then have all new detergent free some chunk that messes up my day!

I'd bet your passive flush is fine and good, just, I myself am not in a position to take any chances there at all.

cruiser54

Passive is fine.

BlueRidgeMark

DF, I think that's an idea that is carried over from the old days of non-detergent oils, when an engine would get really gunked up over time with baked on oil that formed a thick sludge. Now you dump a quart of kerosene in there (an old-timers trick) and chunks of that sludge could break loose and plug up oil passages.

Now add to that the pressurized trans flush that some shops do, which ALSO causes major problems, and everybody gets scared of a transmission flush.

But trans fluid doesn't build up a thick sludge like the old engine oils do. They just lose their lubrication properties and get filled with particles. Replacing it is just fine.

At least, that's my theory.

If you do a repeated drain and fill over the course of a month, you run exactly the same risk, it's just less effective because you never get all the old gunk out.