kissthis66

I tried to search the forums but with no luck so now I ask for help.

Anyone know of any good DIY/How To.. for replacing a clutch?

As this will be my first time doing a clutch replacement, would like to have some step by steps if possible. If not I will be runnin down to the local auto parts store to pick up a Chilton book soon.

94 Cherokee 4x4 4.0

Thanks CF!!!

OttawaXJ

Haynes/Chilton is your best bet to be honest.

1991Jeep_Man

x2

96_xj

x3 that is how i did mine.

Gee oh Dee

I buy a Haynes/Chilton for every vehicle I own. You should see the library I've got going.

kissthis66

hahahaha thanks guys :P

Duncan1800

Agreed. I still have them for vehicles I no longer own, to boot. And got one for the girlfriend's Honda, just to be safe.

Squid

First thing I do when I buy a used car is get the Haynes manual

Gee oh Dee

That's what I meant by library. I figure if I owned the vehicle once, chances are I may own another at one point. And if not, someone I know may and probably will.

Bladeforger

Did this last weekend... so here's some good stuff for ya.

First up is an 18-page doc on the AX15, which you probably have, and has a good layout of the steps.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...ZoRJag&cad=rja

This looooong link is also the 7th or so thing that pops up if you google "AX15 pdf". Make sure that's what you have. There were other transmissions used, too. If yours is the AX15, reading material will be found in other places because they went in some of the TJs, etc. Okay here's a quote from http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm

So it's most likely yours is an AX15.

The top two bolts on the bell housing might be E-12, which is an inverted torx. Stick your fingers down there from the engine compartment and feel. If it feels like a torx wrench sticking out, go getcha an E-12.

Don't jack around with resurfacing the flywheel, new ones are about $70 at Advance Auto and about $80 at Car Quest. YMMV depending on where you can shop in your neck of the woods.

Be sure to have 1/2 impact wrench for removing the flywheel.

You will have to remove the console anyway, so do it from the start. Then remove the shifter. If the plastic ring at the bottom of the shifter ball has turned to paste, it's part number 4864226X and has a number on it that says A22064. Put the shifter back on and order the part--Morris 4x4 has it for about 10 bucks incl shipping. How do you get it on past the pins? Boil some water and drop it in. It'll soften up enough to bend.

If you're doing this in a driveway, you just drop the tranny and bell housing down on the jack and slide it back toward the rear end. You don't actually have to roll it out from under the Jeep. Then pull the clutch and pressure plate. Impact off the flywheel. Pull the pilot bushing or cut it out with a Dremel cut-off wheel. New one goes with o-ring out and a little grease inside... only a little... New flywheel goes on ONE way--i.e. the holes don't all line up symetrically. Keep turning it until you see all holes line up okay. Wipe it off with alcohol or acetone because you probably got a smudge of grease on it. Clutch and pressure plate go on next, using the alignment tool and tighten good. Throwout bearing next. The throwout bearing fits on an arm that goes ONE way--the part number goes on the opposite end from the slave cylinder.

You might have to drop the crossmember and THEN drop the rest of the exhaust. That makes it easier to maneuver around. Otherwise you'll have trouble getting the bell housing over the exhaust pipe on the way out. Whether it's on the ground or hooked to the engine it's going to be in the way. Don't forget to block the engine up because once the tranny comes off the engine is ***-heavy and only the motor mounts hold it. Floor jack and wood under oil pan works fine.

If you have them, loooong extensions and a 3/8 impact are the way to get the top and side bell housing bolts loose. And a wiggle joint on the top ones. And a helper to line it up with fingers first.

Don't forget to drain the oil in the trans before you pull out the drive shaft. Don't forget to mark the u-joint yoke on the rear member and on the shaft so you can line them back up. Secure the u-joint caps so the bearings don't fall out. Don't drop anything on your face; it hurts. Don't do this alone; four hands help. Don't mess up the slave cylinder. Those are best replaced as a package already all connected, and they are about $200. I'm going to replace mine in the Fall. If you want it to survive, wire tie it carefully out of the way. Remember all the normal safety rules like safety glasses and no concrete blocks and to use wheel chocks, etc. You still can't replace eyes so two is a lifetime supply.

I know I left something out, but what the heck. The books won't tell you all this crap. My Haynes arrived Saturday and the job was about done before the postman came by... Amazon was slow. Past experience worked fine for me. And the pdf I linked. And the literature that came with the clutch, which had the bit about the throwout bearing arm going only one way.

Good luck!!!

Keith

crystalion

Alot of cars/trucks have a bushing in the flywheel that should be changed -the nose of the input shaft of the tranny fits in it. You MUST align the the clutch and pressure plate exactly or your trans will not slip in. They sell clutch alignment tools which are basically a reproduction of the input shaft of the trans ( without the splines). At my old trans shop we had input shafts that we took out of all the major models of transmissions and used those ( they work so much better because of the splines)-you may be able to get a trans shop to let u borrow one but that may be a longshot. I had a few trannys that we didn't have one for and we just made a rough one out of a steel blank on a lathe.

kissthis66

Keith - THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The JRod

So you get it all fixed up then? I think my Slave cylinder just caved on me!

kissthis66

swapped it out this past weekend. soooo much better!!! found a great link with pictures ( http://borntourist.com/gallery2/v/mods/clutch/ ) afterwards, it seemed to get worse until i figured out the exhaust started bumping up against the cross member. fixed that as well and now its right as rain.

captainofiron

did you take off the trans and the TC as a unit, or separate them?

Im always curious about other peoples "procedures"