Mike H.

anyone have a link?
would like to read/study before I start turning wrenchs

Mike H.

for starters, how do I remove the cluth pedal from the master push rod?
yep, that's how much I don't know about doing this, but am certain I will do it myself.

rdeskater

my buddies and I have a reasonable amount of wrenching experience. we tried to do this job on a 96 sport and got in over our heads. we ended up taking it to a shop. its easier to foot the bill than it is to do a job you're not sure how to do, especially one so crucial

Mike H.

I hear you...
I've built a couple motors, had a transmission apart/together, and do most of my own work...
This doesn't look too bad, and I'm sure to figure the pedal/rod out with a mirror and some light, but, if someone has done this and can get me started in the right direction I'd sure appriciate it...
kinda feels like a castle nut?

maverickdan

to get the m/c off there is 2 bolts or nuts 1 on the in side and 1 under the hood, you have to disconnect the rod from the pedal on the inside and tap out the roll pin for the line, leave the line on the jeep after removing the m/c and slave cylinder. bench bleed the mc, install it and attached the line to the m/c only, the new slave has two tabs on it, push in the piston and move the tabs out of the way so the piston will slide out further, tilt the slave at a 45 degree angle and slowly fill with brake fluid till full leave piston extened and attach to line push the piston in and put the tabs back in, and bolt the slave to the trans, get in and pump the pedal slowly a bunch of times checked fluid

93XJGreenMonster

It's actually not that bad. I followed this write up, it's for a 97 wrangler, but applies none the less.

http://www.4x4xplor.com/clutch.html

Basically you pull the transfer case, and then the tranny. Once you've done that, you can get to the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the fly wheel.

To save yourself from having to do it again, I recommend you replace the slave cylinder. (mine is in the bell housing, which sucks. But if you replace everything while it's all apart, you don't have to do it again.

I found that the first time it took me and a couple buddies about 18 hours total. But it was the first time any of us had done it. The second time I did it with my pops and we got it done in about 8 hours. Experience rocks.

If you figure the whole system, a clutch kit (including the clutch disk, pressure plate, and slave cylinder) is going to run you about $150. I went ahead and bought a new flywheel for $60, and the master cylinder was about $40. You can get the flywheel resurfaced for a little cheaper, but you also have to wait for it to get done. So, for $250 bucks yo can do the job with a friend (you'll need help pulling the heavy *** trans case and tranny) That's a hell of a lot cheaper than what I was quoted by a mechanic, anywhere from 1200-1800$.

Plus, when you take on an endeavor like that, you learn a lot and find that other projects look a whole lot easier.

Mike H.

this is what I'm installing today...

Not touching the clutch/pressure plate etc., jut the hydro's.

Mike H.

how do you get the master cylinder bracket off the firewall??!!
i've removed the nuts, but, it's almost like the bolts are studs, that have been pressed in??

Mike H.

ok.
when changing out the master cylinder on the clutch, you should unbolt the cluth bracket, not the brake bracket.
Additionally, the left pedal is the clutch, not the center pedal...
In short, disconnecting the brake pedal/bracket will not allow removal of the clutch... DOH!!

Mike H.

Got it installed, and on the first shift it works great, go down the road and go thru the gears and it starts working progressively worse until I can no longer disengage... pedal goes all the way to the floor...
Do the "sealed assemblies" need to be bled, or do I have other issues?

Please help.

CommanderXJ

Sounds like you didn't bleed the system. I know that when I replaced the clutch cylinder on my 4runner, I unscrewed the bleeder screw and had someone pump the clutch pedal until all of the air bubbles cleared out then I popped the screw back in while the clutch pedal was towards the floor.

That's about all I got, hope that helps.

maverickdan

if his slave is like the one i put in it does not have a bleeder screw. just look at my post above, i explain how to bleed it.

Mike H.

Ok,
I guess I missed that all together...
Since it's all bolted to the firewall/bell houseing, do you tink I can simply unbolt at the bell, and do as you described? ...

Oh dang, the plastic tabs will already be snaped off...

What does the allen bolt on top of the slave do? Fingers crossed that is a way to bleed...

BTW,
It came as a fully assembled unit, with fluid already in it... so, I have not had any lines disconnected.

maverickdan

yeah just unbolt it from the bell and disconnect the line, fill it at a 45 degree angle reconnect to the line and bolt it back to the trans, it shouldnt really matter if the tabs are broken, just remember NOT to push the piston back in until the slave connected to the line

Sprocket

Ive had a few issues with mine as well. Been thru 3 of them. There were leaking into the cab by the fuse block. determined it was the fluid. Stay away from synthtic brake fluid. It will eat the seals inside.