high rpm blow by?
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
high rpm blow by?
Longtime surfer, but my first thread.
90 XJ, Renix 4.0, daily driver, 274k miles and counting.
Considering the mileage, I'm assuming my rings are on their last leg because I am getting lots of oil out of the ccv intake hose.
To the point of disconnecting it from the air filter, and attaching a small pimento catch jar, that is emptied weekly. The ccv hoses and fittings are clean. I cut the bends out of the plastic hose and reattached with small sections of proper dia. rubber hose. Basically making a straight shot from the valve cover to the intake man.
Valve cover has been off and cleaned inside and out. Including the breather baffles.
At idle, I can put my thumb over the front hole and feel slight suction.
Plugs are clean, nice tan color. No smoke out of the exhaust. Compression test was done by myself, not sure if I let it crank long enough though, I did a five count. Numbers were mid 90's except one cylinder was upper 80's. I also don't think I pulled the right relay cuz it was smelling gassy after a couple cylinder tests.
And first start afterwards was rough like it was flooded.
Vacuum gauge reads a steady 19in's
Engine runs like a top, just want it to stop spitting oil.
I think that covers it, any tips and tests are appreciated.
90 XJ, Renix 4.0, daily driver, 274k miles and counting.
Considering the mileage, I'm assuming my rings are on their last leg because I am getting lots of oil out of the ccv intake hose.
To the point of disconnecting it from the air filter, and attaching a small pimento catch jar, that is emptied weekly. The ccv hoses and fittings are clean. I cut the bends out of the plastic hose and reattached with small sections of proper dia. rubber hose. Basically making a straight shot from the valve cover to the intake man.
Valve cover has been off and cleaned inside and out. Including the breather baffles.
At idle, I can put my thumb over the front hole and feel slight suction.
Plugs are clean, nice tan color. No smoke out of the exhaust. Compression test was done by myself, not sure if I let it crank long enough though, I did a five count. Numbers were mid 90's except one cylinder was upper 80's. I also don't think I pulled the right relay cuz it was smelling gassy after a couple cylinder tests.
And first start afterwards was rough like it was flooded.
Vacuum gauge reads a steady 19in's
Engine runs like a top, just want it to stop spitting oil.
I think that covers it, any tips and tests are appreciated.
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Look at Cruiser54's valve cover mod (tip 25).
I thought it was blow-by and I came across that tip. Had to change the valve cover gasket anyway, so I gave it a shot. I'm good to go now.
I thought it was blow-by and I came across that tip. Had to change the valve cover gasket anyway, so I gave it a shot. I'm good to go now.
#3
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Year: 1990
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I also did that mod when the cover was off, but now I'm not sure if I drilled the holes in the right spots. One of the tubes ended up being a little shorter than the other, didn't think it would make a difference. I'll have to take the cover off again to double check, luckily I got the fancy reusable gasket.
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Year: 1990
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Nope, that one's new to me. I only have a standard comp tester, I need an extra hand to crank so I can watch the gauge. How many revolutions should it spin on each cylinder when testing? Or does it matter?
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
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I do lucky number 7 (spins for comp test)
If I'm not mistaken, you can 'borrow' a leakdown tester from one of the big name parts houses. You will need a air compressor.
The instructions will tell you specifically, but you want to make sure the valves are fully shut on the cylinder you are testing. If no air leaks you are good, if there is a leak, check the dipstick tube, exhaust, inside valve cover, and intake manifold. If there is a leak you will hear air hissing.
If I'm not mistaken, you can 'borrow' a leakdown tester from one of the big name parts houses. You will need a air compressor.
The instructions will tell you specifically, but you want to make sure the valves are fully shut on the cylinder you are testing. If no air leaks you are good, if there is a leak, check the dipstick tube, exhaust, inside valve cover, and intake manifold. If there is a leak you will hear air hissing.
#7
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Year: 1990
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Yeah compressor has been on my list for a long time, my wrenches have been turning manually for years.
Kinda surprised I don't have Popeye arms!
So, double check my breathers, redo compression test. Then possible leak down test. Thanks for your help!
Kinda surprised I don't have Popeye arms!
So, double check my breathers, redo compression test. Then possible leak down test. Thanks for your help!
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#9
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Late update. Went to the JY for Volvo injectors, (there were plenty to choose from!) and grabbed a couple breather tubes while I was at it. Got home, popped the cover and realized I did the breather mod wrong.
I cut too much off one tube, and both had 3/8 holes drilled straight through both sides. So I cut exactly a 1/2 in off of the new to me tubes, and a 1/2in hole in each tube, rear facing.
After 50 miles of hwy, got home and only had a little tiny puddle in my jar! I don't know why it worked, but so far so good, we'll see if it stops all together. Fingers crossed
I cut too much off one tube, and both had 3/8 holes drilled straight through both sides. So I cut exactly a 1/2 in off of the new to me tubes, and a 1/2in hole in each tube, rear facing.
After 50 miles of hwy, got home and only had a little tiny puddle in my jar! I don't know why it worked, but so far so good, we'll see if it stops all together. Fingers crossed
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Great!!
Make sure you have the correct orifice/rear tube also. New it's $8 with a grommet. They changed it to address this issue also.
Make sure you have the correct orifice/rear tube also. New it's $8 with a grommet. They changed it to address this issue also.
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Ok, I have the correct grommet/valve/tube combo. Although I did ever so slightly increase the diameter of the little air valve thing the vacuum tube goes into. A few weeks ago I could take the oil cap off when idling and see some vapors floating around inside the cover, and that stopped last time I checked.
Also, awhile back I replaced the brittle cracked front grommet with new rubber and a gutted pcv valve (they were on hand).
Would it be worthwhile to swap on a newer steel cover with full length baffle?
Also, awhile back I replaced the brittle cracked front grommet with new rubber and a gutted pcv valve (they were on hand).
Would it be worthwhile to swap on a newer steel cover with full length baffle?
#12
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Year: 1990
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Ok, I have the correct grommet/valve/tube combo. Although I did ever so slightly increase the diameter of the little air valve thing the vacuum tube goes into. A few weeks ago I could take the oil cap off when idling and see some vapors floating around inside the cover, and that stopped last time I checked.
Also, awhile back I replaced the brittle cracked front grommet with new rubber and a gutted pcv valve (they were on hand).
Would it be worthwhile to swap on a newer steel cover with full length baffle?
Also, awhile back I replaced the brittle cracked front grommet with new rubber and a gutted pcv valve (they were on hand).
Would it be worthwhile to swap on a newer steel cover with full length baffle?
Check this though. The fitting on the intake manifold. Is it gummed up or restricted in any way?
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Are both hoses from valve cover still hooked up. Rear ccv removes crank case pressure at idle and constant rpm. Front hose to air box removes crankcase pressure under acceleration thru suction of throttle body.
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Front was connected to the intake tube till it soaked my cone filter with oil. Now it goes into a vented pimento jar