Is anyone running this setup with stock axle shafts. im contumplating wheather or not i should put and arb in because of my setup. im running 35" km2's and 4.56 gears. i was hearing from a bunch of different threads that i have read that i will break axle shafts 5 minutes into the ride, snap u-joints left and right, and have nothing but problems. on the other hand i have heard that a hp30 is only 10% weaker than a low pinion 44. and evryone says upgrade to a dana44. is this all true, or what. im not heavy on the throttle at all unless it needs just a little more gas to get out. most of the wheeling i do is on-trail with at little mud as possible. and im already locked in the rear. what do you all think.
oh and im planning on upgrading to alloy shafts next spring i just dont have the money for it now.
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I ran 35s on my old 30 with stock shafts and a locker and my problems came from the rear axle. The ABS shafts are pretty strong and use the same u-joints as the 44. As with any front axle in a bind (wheels turned fully) under throttle you take a chance of snapping a shaft but the 30 is quite tough. I know tons of people with that set up or simular and seem to do fine. I say wheel it and if you do break down the road go for the chromos.
Axles, bit of lift and tars, what else do you need
What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.
Slightly "modified" Ford radius arms, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
you could give it a shot. a guy in my off road group has been running 4.88s with 35s on his ARB HP D30, but i think he has the "super 30" kit.
but he also recently got a stroker, and its still been holding up to all the abuse