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Old 06-15-2009, 10:03 PM   #1
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Default HELP!! REplaced everything, still NO BRAKES!!

...........Yes. The Rear brake pads are adjusted properlly, and work great. And the front calipers are new, and installed properlly.....I was bleeding the brakes the traditional way withy 2 people, one in the car/jeep pumping the brakes, the other person under the car "craking the bleeder.....and bleeding the brakes. I think it might have something to do with the differential block/proportioning valve (under the Master Cylinder) or just not being able to get the air out?? I've never seen annything like this........
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:19 PM   #2
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Are the calapers on the correct sides? the bleeder screws need to be at the top of the calaper. I have put the calapers on incorrectly before and all the air will not bleed out of the system.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:47 PM   #3
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Try bleeding it at the porportioning valve, may be that will get all the air out of it
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:54 PM   #4
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Check everything again then go get one of those one person bleeder pumps. That way there is no doubt on the bleeding problem. If it is a leaking connection,bad line, or the Proportioning valve you will not be able to get all the air out. But the Proportioningvalve hardly ever goes bad all it does is keep the pressure balanced when you have front disc's and rear drum's. Proportioning valve's usually go out When a premature rear wheel slide is obtained on brake application, it could be an indication that the fluid pressure to the rear brakes is above the reduction ratio for the rear line pressure and that a malfunction has occurred within the proportioning valve unit which should be tested.To test the proportioning valve, proceed as follows: During testing, leave front brake lines connected to the valve. (1) Install one gauge and “T” of set C-4007A between brake line from master cylinder secondary port and brake valve assembly (Fig. 2).
(2) Install the second gauge of set C-4007A to the rear brake outlet port between valve assembly and the rear brake line. (An adapter tube, made up locally of a 9/16 x 18 tube nut, short piece of brake tube and 3/8 x 24 tube nut will be required to connect the hose to the valve). Bleed the rear brake system.
(3) Have a helper exert pressure on the brake pedal (holding pressure) to get a reading on the valve inlet gauge and check the reading on the outlet gauge. If the inlet and outlet pressures do not agree with the values on the following chart, replace the valve.
(4) Valve assemblies for all models are shipped in the front failed position to improve bleeding. When installing a new valve, bleed the rear brakes first


Split Point (PSI)/Slope Inlet Pressure From Master Cylinder Outlet Pressure To Rear Brakes
220/.43 1000 500-600
300/.27
1000 430-550









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Old 06-16-2009, 08:21 AM   #5
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you may need to replace the master/booster.
i went through the same thing, and just upgraded to a 99 brake booster/master, and now i have killer brakes. i can lock up my 36's, no problem.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:40 AM   #6
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Mighty vac is what you need.
http://www.mityvac.com/
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:18 AM   #7
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Oh man those mighty vacs are worth every penny.

I know it sounds repeated but rebleed, I did a clutch master cylinder that wouldn't even start giving us air until we pumped the clutch close to, no joke, 200 times. The air was getting caught somewhere and we had to just keep at it.

If you can get a fluid extractor you will save yourself time, alot of time.

Good luck, let us know.

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Old 06-16-2009, 09:18 AM
 
 
 
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