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Help with a coolant flush.

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Old 12-16-2010, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by weight312
Not sure if I'm following along with this conversation the right way or not but if you have brown antifreeze and theres lumpy, sludgy material in it...
Coolant doesnt look sludgey just brown. Hopefully that flush will be all it needs if not ill find out saturday.
Old 12-17-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by weight312
Not sure if I'm following along with this conversation the right way or not but if you have brown antifreeze and theres lumpy, sludgy material in it... BIG PROBLEM! This most likely happens because oil has been introduced to the coolant. Your most likely source would be a blown headgasket. It is common with the 4.0's because of how long the head is there is a greater tendency for the warpage, creating a weak seal in the gasket and then voila! ..peanut butter in your radiator. I just went through this entire ordeal and I started off the same way thinking that since my coolant way brown that I could just flush it thoroughly and the problem would be solved. approximately $900 later my problem is now solved and I have an entirely new cooling system from the thermostat to the radiator, heater core, water pump, and every line hose and clamp in between.
So I looked in the over flow this morning after thinking bout what you said last night. Reach to the bottom and ended up gettin some think, sludgey, oily looking stuff :/, so thats not good. Not really worth paying to have the system flushed only to have it get dirty again!

I havent had any over heating issues since I've had it so would it be bad to drive it with the leak?? I've been doin it for a lil while now at least without any issues so far. Id rather do the work myself but I need to wait for some nicer weather and need to get the motor back in my mustang first.
Old 12-17-2010, 09:48 AM
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The rusty stuff is goopey and thick. Most likely thats what it is. Oil would sit on top anyway.
Old 12-17-2010, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by black_771
The rusty stuff is goopey and thick. Most likely thats what it is. Oil would sit on top anyway.
Thats tru oil does float, but it does look more like an oily consistancy than rusty. Maybe Ill let the shop look at it. They did an inspection not long ago and didnt say anythin, makes me wonder.

If it is oil and I have a leak, is it bad to drive like that? Obviously its not ideal but if I can wait and save a few hundred bucks that would be nice.

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Old 12-17-2010, 11:01 AM
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My complete honest opinion at this point would be to just change it yourself and see what happens. My Corvette has the brown stuff in it and I changed it myself much like others have suggested. I drained everything including the block, then just shot the garden hose through everything for a couple minutes. Filled it up with water, went for a 10 or 15 minute drive, then drained it again. After 3 times or so, the water that came out was almost crystal clear. I ended up hosing out the resevoir best I could, but it was still stained with the old brown goo. Once I drained everything and filled it with 50/50, it was bright green for several years, up until I sold it.

It takes nothing but time and if you see eventually that you have another problem, at least you didn't **** away your $. Changing the antifreeze is about as easy as it gets.

Lastly don't expect perfection with a Jeep. Otherwise you'll never enjoy it for what it is,.... a friend with benefits,...uh, I mean good cheap transportation.
Old 12-17-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by black_771
It takes nothing but time and if you see eventually that you have another problem, at least you didn't **** away your $. Changing the antifreeze is about as easy as it gets.

Lastly don't expect perfection with a Jeep. Otherwise you'll never enjoy it for what it is,.... a friend with benefits,...uh, I mean good cheap transportation.
Yeah thats kinda want im thinking now. I could change it myself for a fraction of the cost and if there is a problem I wont have wasted my money.
Old 12-17-2010, 12:07 PM
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yes try changing it yourself.. that will be the tell all. I changed mine twice over the course of 6 months (flushing it out thoroughly each time). The indicator is that it continues to come back. Rust wont reaccumulate that fast. As for the oil laying on top comment that is true.. if you look in your reservoir thats where you will notice a sort of sheen on the surface.
Old 12-17-2010, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by weight312
yes try changing it yourself.. that will be the tell all. I changed mine twice over the course of 6 months (flushing it out thoroughly each time). The indicator is that it continues to come back. Rust wont reaccumulate that fast. As for the oil laying on top comment that is true.. if you look in your reservoir thats where you will notice a sort of sheen on the surface.
Thanks, thats very tru and the cheapest way to figure it out. So you blew the gasket? Mines beyond a "sheen" but ill look for it once its clean.
Old 12-17-2010, 01:22 PM
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Yeah I shouldn't say blew the gasket, that's an overstatement. Other than the coolant issue I had no way of knowing. I probably drove it like that for a year before I fixed it. But you will have to replace the entire cooling system, heater core included. It gets cold up here in PA and I went last winter with no heat because it was all plugged up. No permanent damage though, mines running better than the day I got it now
Old 12-17-2010, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by weight312
Yeah I shouldn't say blew the gasket, that's an overstatement. Other than the coolant issue I had no way of knowing. I probably drove it like that for a year before I fixed it. But you will have to replace the entire cooling system, heater core included. It gets cold up here in PA and I went last winter with no heat because it was all plugged up. No permanent damage though, mines running better than the day I got it now
Yeah I know what tyou mean bout the gasket. I think my heater core has aleak anyway. Thats the other reason i wanna wait. Ill have my stang running angin in the spring so i can pull the motor apart and the interior with no rush.
Old 12-18-2010, 03:56 PM
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So I went to flush it today and the coolant was a bit too low. So i bought a new pump and Im thinking I may as well do the rad and thermostat while its all apart. I wont be able to get to the heater core though. Would it be bad keeping the old heater core will a new rad?
Old 12-18-2010, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by No4x4Yet
So I went to flush it today and the coolant was a bit too low. So i bought a new pump and Im thinking I may as well do the rad and thermostat while its all apart. I wont be able to get to the heater core though. Would it be bad keeping the old heater core will a new rad?
It will be fine. You seem to be like me and want to make it all new again, but in the end, our desire for perfection is really just a waste of money most of the time. I feel you though.
Old 12-19-2010, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by black_771
It will be fine. You seem to be like me and want to make it all new again, but in the end, our desire for perfection is really just a waste of money most of the time. I feel you though.
Ha well its all pretty cheap and I want it to work! Heat and AC are important.
Old 12-19-2010, 05:50 PM
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So I flushed it and changed the water pump. I bought a new Radiator as well but i couldnt get the lower transmission cooler line off! Such a PITA! Spent all the time gettin everythin outa the and that like would not budge. Think Im gonna pick up a new line along with a trans filter and fluid and do all that.
Old 12-19-2010, 06:22 PM
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This may help if the tranny pan drop is stubborn.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hel...problem-69008/


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