extrashaky

As Basslicks said, the relay harness is part of the fix. Suppose he replaces the switch and connector, but the wires in the harness have also been damaged by the heat. If he does nothing else, best case is that the corrosion process starts over and ruins the new switch and/or connector. Worst case is that the wires melt under the full load of the lights. The harness will reduce the current running through all of that so that it's no longer a critical issue and is actually fixed.

Thanks for making my point for me.

$19. Go shake out the couch cushions and scrape around under your seats. If you wait, don't wait long.

97grand4.0

The guy needs his ride. The first switch and harness lasted 100k. He said he intends to upgrade it. So it's temporary, but likely it will last a few days.

Basslicks

This is starting to turn into a pissing match, but it's important to note...

The first switch and harness lasted 100k miles on factory wiring that was not damaged. Short of tracing the entire circuit all the way to the headlights and battery, you'll never know if it's not toasted somewhere else up/down stream. Why chance it? I see your point man and I get it, he's just trying to get his vehicle driveable. We've all been there. Some things you can shortcut on and it's not a big deal, then there are others that really become a big deal and fast!

Say he replaces that switch and pigtail and everything works fine, but there's a section of wire up under the dash, wrapped up in a loom that he can't see, that's been heated up and has lost its conductive integrity? You can throw enough power through it safely to send a signal, but not safely enough to power 110 watts of headlights (or 120 depending on hi/low beams). So now, he's driving down the road and that section of wire FAILS, melts, and catches fire... was it really worth it over the want of 19 bucks?

None of us are rich here man - well, the majority of us aren't. We're not trying to make the guy arbitrarily spend money on *****-nilly accessories, we're trying to help protect his investment.

I'm not sure what the ZJs have as far as wiring for the headlights. AFAIK, the harness upgrade isn't needed for the ZJ, I've never heard anyone talk about it... but for XJs it is.

97grand4.0

Short of tracing the entire circuit all the way to the headlights and battery, you'll never know if it's not toasted somewhere else up/down stream

Which is why in my earlier post I advocate to fix the original problems first, which may include looking at the whole wiring, (check for voltage drop) then upgrade. I guess the best way would be to voltage at the repair on the B+ for voltage drop going into the switch, that would tell if there is a problem such as you describe. If there is a drop you can suspect a problem upstream. hope this helps.

investinwaffles

IMO first step is replacing the OEM connector and making sure everything is functional. If so, then you can install the relay.

Makes troubleshooting problems much easier

KD3NE

So you tracked down the stalling problem to the floats in the installed Rochester with good troubleshooting.

YOU say we should fix the bad Rochester, before installing the Edlebrock upgrade?

That would be a waste of time and money.

Installing a new switch, harness connector AND RELAY HARNESS is the fix.

Chances are excellent that the OEM harness has been compromised from the burnt connector. Insulation has begun to break down and in fact can probably be felt to be stiffer than normal. This compromised wiring will not fix itself and running full headlight current through it will only exacerbate the problem in the near future. Installing the harness takes the high current load off the switch/OEM harness and thus removes a very real FIRE HAZARD.

Do some research on Jeep Cherokee fires .... there is a reason why many Cherokees that catch fire, catch fire inside the dashboard. The OEM headlight AND HVAC Fan Speed Control become fire hazards over time.

KD3NE

It's a three step process.........

Step 1. Replace harness connector. ( test if installed switch seems useable )
Step 2. Install new switch. ( test to confirm functionality )
Step 3. Install relay harness ( READ THE DIRECTIONS ) ( test to confirm functionality )


We just brought in two new Jeeps ..... 1995 YJ Wrangler ..... 2000 XY Cherokee

Before we did anything else, we installed relay harness for headlights and a relay setup for the HVAC fan controls. It was a Fire Prevention move.

Ben Reilly

I had a friend splice a new connector in for me. That and a new switch got them working again foutunatly.

KD3NE

That should work for you but keep in mind ......

Every splice is a potential choke point in the circuit. The OEM connector lasted as long as it did because each contact was crimped directly to the harness and inserted into the connector.

You now have the OEM type connector, with the crimped on connectors ( single crimp ) as well as two additional crimp points.

When I do my repairs, I use a non-insulated crimp connector and to reduce insertion loss/increased heat I solder through the crimp connector. Once that is done I insulate with double wall shrink tubing to seal off the joint from moisture and corrosion.

The repair you have will work fine for a while ..... much much longer with the relay harness installed.

FWIW - I was a certified electronics tech with a background in engineering of wiring harness before I got my BSEE. I may not be an expert on the mechanics/drive train of our beloved Jeeps but I know my electronics and wiring.

Ben Reilly

Like I said I'll upgrade the to the relay harness later (probably in the spring). I know the $19 is no big deal I've just been ordering a lot of parts for this thing lately and it's really adding up. Just ordered a new exhaust manifold today. Hopefully it will get me through the winter. If not I'll update this thread and you can all say TOLD YOU! Haha