tommyis3

Hi guys, new to the Jeep brand, I just bought myself a 4x4 1996 Jeep Cherokee Laredo for $300, body and interior are in great shape, but it has a blown head gasket, there is no water in the oil, the oil is the right colour but its blowing steam out the tailpipe, now then, I have never done a head gasket before, but I am willing to get my hands dirty, I can follow instructions from the Haynes, but folk who have done these jobs before always have tricks and tips, could anyone who has done theirs please give me a rough guide and any tips or tricks you may have, I am also going to replace the water pump, thermostat and give the cooling system a right good clean out. Oh and also anyone please recommend a good 3" lift kit for this model.

5-90

If you're not sure it's a head gasket, and you're not seeing a lot of water in the oil, a leakdown test is indicated next (at the very least, do a compression check. You don't mention having done that.

Bear in mind that the "ash" from the combustion of any hydrocarbon is composed of carbon dioxide (same thing we exhale - take that, greenhouse gas movement!) and water vapour (read: steam.)

Therefore, some water coming out of the tailpipe is actually a normal thing, and it also has a good deal to do with why modern exhaust systems are either plain CRES or aluminum over CRES ("aluminised stainless.") Also, you're going to see more shortly after startup, once the exhaust system is hot enough to boil off condensation that formed overnight, and once the oil is hot enough to boil off water that has condensed in it overnight as well. This is why short-hop trips that don't get the oil hot are actually bad for your engine - if you've got to do a buch of short runs, start with the one farthest away from you (to get everything warmed up) and work your way back in toward home - instead of the other way about.

Before you get to thinking you're in for a head gasket, you should really make sure of it. It's not that it's a technically difficult job (I did my first head gasket - on a Chrysler slant six - when I was eight,) although it is time-consuming (I can do a Jeep head gasket in around an after-noon. Might take you all day, since you don't know the pitfalls from experience...) but there's no point in doing work that you may not need to do in the first place. Make sense?

Do a compression test first. You should get results that are within +/-10% of each other - take an average and use that. If you get a "flyer" or two (result that is significantly out of range,) throw that out to generate your average, and the figure on the rest.

Repeat the compression test after dropping a tablespoonful of clean engine oil down the spark plug hole on a "low hole" and retest. This gives a quick check of the rings - if the "wet test" is significantly higher than the "dry test," you may be looking at a ring job.

If the "wet test" doesn't pull the low hole up, do a leakdown test yet (there are still places that it could be leaking from that aren't the head gasket.)

NB: A compression test or a leakdown test should be performed on an engine that has been shut down from operating temperature, and the ignition should be disabled and all spark plugs removed before cranking for the compression test.

tommyis3

Hi 5-90.

Thanks for the quick reply, I’m pretty sure is the head gasket that’s gone, when I say blowing steam, I mean there is tons of steam, also one thing that I forgot to mention, there is no heat inside the car, even when the engine is hot, and the car overheats, to be truthful the reasons I bought the car was to learn myself and my boys, I’m a manager who sits behind a desk all day and never really got my hands dirty, so I’m looking forward to the challenge, as I said previously, I can read and follow instructions well, but just wanted some advice on the tear down and re-build, I have $300 in it for a 1996, so I really don’t mind spending a bit more on it, I can get the head gasket, water pump, thermostat & radiator for under $200 and if needed a remanufactured head for another $190, so I’ll still be under $1000, for a 1996, I don’t think that’s too bad, so any tips / tricks advice?

Thanks once again for the quick response.

5-90

Fair enough - but I still think a compression test and a leakdown test would be the order of the day. See if anyone local to you has either or both testers available, and can show you how to use them for a nominal fee (typically paid in pizza and/or beer.)

tommyis3

well, I have changed the head gasket, radiator, thermostat and water pump, runs great, temp in the steady 200 range, quite please with myself. Now onto the mods, i want to lift it by 3" and fat tyres on it, any recommendations for a lift and tyres.

5-90

My experience with suspension and tyres isn't as broad as with engine, transmissions, and axles - but I had an 87 that had a 3" Rancho kit and BFG AT 31's and handled rather well - used to play bumper tag with my boss and his Camaro in moderate freeway traffic.

I greatly prefer BFG AT/KOs for "mixed duty" use (daily street driver and mild to moderate off-road,) but collect as many opinions as possible before you select a lift kit. As I said, I don't know that much about them (I've not played with many off-road tyres, but I've played about with performance tyres and suchlike on the street and the track - I prefer BFGs when I can't get a dedicated slick tyre, like Hoosier.)

Steveo

5-90, we need more people on here like you, in all my time on this forum i dont think i've ever seen you say one derogatory thing to anyone but your as helpful as all get out.

and super kudos for the small parts exchange idea, hope to see that grow.

two words though,"Nut" "Serts" ha

5-90

Thanks. And thanks.

Yeah - I know, but Nutserts are probably something I'll add to the sales line - I'd have to fork over for them, y'know? It's something that's on my list, and that's why I want to hear from you even when there's something looking for that you don't find through me - I keep track of things like that.

The Parts Exchange is sort of an outgrowth of all of the kharma threads I've seen on various boards - think of it as a central clearinghouse. You send me a part, I send you a part. If there's nothing you want, you send me a part and I send back a card - you can send in the card for a part later.

I try to not say anything derogatory to anyone - at least, not directly insulting (it's been a fine line sometimes...) Something I learned back about fifth grade - "Don't write anything anywhere you don't want to see on the front page of to-morrow's paper." Good rule to follow.

sv41878

As for the lift question, I have a Rough Country 3 inch lift on a 96 Cherokee. I'm very happy with the front of the lift (coil springs and shocks), easy to put in, no mods needed (although i recently got a set of RE LCA's off this sight, wanted the extra 1/4 inch length to move the front axle forward that much, it's whats recommended at that height), not so happy with the rear add a leaf which only added 1 1/2 inches. Too much stress on the springs made them sag within a month. My advice would be to buy the RC kit from JC Whitney (like $270), find a set of NEW 1 1/2 lift rear leafs, toss on the add a leaf and see how it feels.

One thing to note is that all jeeps behave different, I've had 3 96's, all with 3 inch RC lifts, one required an adjustable track bar to eliminate front differential vibration, both my priors needed shims in the rear. This current is the only one that hasn't wanted some kind of mod (shims at least), and the springs are sagging, when I fix that it may become a different story. Really it all comes down to feel, lift it with a kit and see how it feels, if you don't like it, then check this site, or others and see if anyone found a way around it.

I have 31x10.50x15 Cooper Discoverer ATR's on mine, stock rims, they handle great on pavement and the mud, will know how they are in the snow in a few weeks I'm sure. My only complaint is that I rub my LCA's when I turn too hard. If I adjust the steering stop it would fix it, but it's rusted, I've heated and PB Blastered it numerous times and it's stuck, so I haven't.

Hope this helps a little.

5-90

Two possible solutions:

1) Apply some wheel spacers. An inch should do - you don't want much (going too far screws up leverage on the knuckle anyhow.)
2) Go with a wheel that has a shallower backspace - which effectively moves the tyre outwards.
3) Use the old engine-builder's trick to loosen up the steering stop. Remove the wheel and tyre, remove the unit bearing (no sense in wrecking it with heat,) and get a propane torch and a stick of paraffin wax. Heat the screw to a dull red, then touch the paraffin wax to the juncture between the screw and knuckle. The wax will melt on contact and will wick in between the internal and external threads. Replace the screw and stopnut - heating to any sort of glow will wreck the temper of the thing! Apply never-seez to the threads of the new screw and the stopnut so you can adjust it later if you need to. The jam nut is what provides the locking action - fix the head in place, and torque the jam nut to about 20 pound-feet using a torque wrench and a regular crowfoot wrench to grip the nut. Have the crowfoot sticking out as close to straight from the handle as possible - like a regular wrench. If you turn the crowfoot 180* (so it comes back under the handle,) you'll shorten the lever arm - torque to 28-30 pound-feet to make up for that (either one should get you right around 25 pound-feet, which should get you the results you want.)

Once you get the stop screw out, please let me know the thread pitch and length so I can add it to my notes.

tommyis3

Thanks for all the helpful info guys, I can see that i`m going to get addicted to this modding stuff.

sgtskid

I have a rusty's 3 inch lift that came complete with springs, shocks, brake lines, add a leafs, u bolts, and some other misc. stuff for around $400 dollars. My only suggestion would be to get spring packs instead of the add a leaf...maybe a little more dough but they will last longer and won't sag with wear (as mine have) I would go with an upgraded shock as well....the rusty's didn't last very long going off road all the time.

As for tires I have the BFG's All Terrains on 30x9.50x15 and love them. They have worn well and do great both on an off road. I considered getting the BFG mud terrains but after talking with people they recommended the all terrains for a daily driver...I think it was a wise choice.

88cherokeelaredo

I have tuff country 3.5 lift kit works great & comes with heavy duty tubular control arms with urethane bushings / handles better than it did stock