sturoc

Have made it thru a Harmonic Balancer replacement process
Question:
Seemed like it was all the way in when the installer wouldn't turn anymore. I show a couple of millimeters edge like it could go further in ,
But again I can't turn it anymore Pretty sure the old one was same way
Belt pulleys look good for Alignment too.

Any thoughts on this before I button it all up ????

I was fortunate to have the radiator out -due to replacing it anyway-
This was of extreme help for moving around.

Appreciate any comments

Dwinthrup

When I install balancers is only use a puller, to reinstall I simply get it started on the crank then get a longer bolt to start drawing it in untill I can use the bolt that was holding it in place to start with and torqe to spec.

Tshay

yeah I used a puller with mine it is definetly the way to go sometimes spending the lil extra to rent it is worth it

sturoc

I think you guys missed the question
The new one is already on.
I basically wanted to know if I can't turn the installer anymore seems like the balancer is in all the way, showing only a couple millimeters of edge
In other words the crank's shaft end is set back 2 millimeters from the Balancer, Not flush with it.
Will ck it this morning to make sure I cannot turn installer any further and put the bolt in torque it down.
Cause as stated pulleys look lined up
so we'll see.......

Tshay

Yeah I remember when I did mine there was a gap not much but I can try to get you a picture tonight on what mine looks like. Till than try to google it see if you cant find a picture of what it supposed to look like. also if you have a straight edge run it across from pulley to pulley if theres a noticable raise than it usually means one of your pulleys is off this is how I knew my harmonic balancer was toast

sturoc

Thanks Tshay for the quik reply. I'll ck with straight edge too.

Howler_GT

The installer did its job.
Now put the crank boplt back in and torque it to specs.
The bolt will pull it back the rest of the way.

You are done.

Done the balancer replacement TWICE. (I have two XJ's)

Button it up... Enjoy your favorite frothy beverage.

sturoc

Will do not sure it could even go more in cause it's looking really close to the timing chain cover so I think it is there
Thanks for the encouragement looking forward to being done today !

sturoc

A BIG THANKS to you guys for all the info and help.
Balancer Job is done.
Also had to do radiator replacement,
straighten front cross member with a come along after the 92 rolled slowly into a tree hitting dead center of grill, I have a few other posts on that ...!
Hope some day I can impart some knowledge as well but for now I gotta have a Stout and relax.
Best Cherokee forum out there,I'll be reading this forum from now on.
Thanks

5-90

I've done harmonic dampers a lot more than twice!

The general rule is that, if the HD hub is flush with the crankshaft snout, you're there. No point in going on any farther than that, since the heavy washer under the nose screw head will only hold it flush anyhow.

When driving the new seal into the front cover, stop when it's flush with the forward edge of the seal bore. You'll be happy to have the extra room behind it next time you change it, believe me!

When the HD starts to head West on you, the elastomer ("rubber") ring begins to fail and that allows the inertia ring to "walk off" of the hub. If it walks forwards, you simply have belt misalignment to deal with. If it walks backwards, it will wear into the timing chain cover!

Alignment of the two can be checked by trimming the protruding elastomer with a razor (which only takes a minute) and then laying a straightedge along the face of the HD - misalignment of more than 1/32" between the hub and ring indicates a need for replacement. Not more than 1/16" of rubber should be left protruding from the face of the unit.

sturoc

When I installed the HB I was going great guns with the installer pushing it on very smoothly and while I could only put a just under half a turn every time, it moved just fine.
Then I was pretty sure I "bottomed out"
I pulled the installer off to see where it sat and had only a few mm to go till flush.
Putting the installer on again and cranked down on it. I could not turn any more with the HB not budging. Cking the clearance from the pully edge to the TC cover it's very close not touching though.
Pioneer is the brand of HB I installed and figure that possibly they made it to bottom out and still a few mm edge showing ?
The hold down bolt is on and she runs good and pully alignment is great and all looks good.

5-90

I suppose that's possible. I've been using Pioneer/Barnes parts for a good number of years, and haven't had that trouble.

Question - did you take the oil slinger out before you put the new HD on? Just wondering - if there was an oil slinger, they've decided it's not necessary anymore (and I think you have clearance to remove it once the front main seal is out of your way. You did change the FMS, did you not?)

sturoc

Greetings 5-90,
I had not seen any mention of an oil slinger with regards to the replacement method in the post replies I've gotten. Please explain what that is.
The frnt seal was replaced a while ago no leaks etc.
remember that my belt alignment with the other pulleys is spot on and clearance to the TChain cover is close enough that if the HB goes in any more it will rub it.
Just ran it for about 1 1/2 hrs round town and all seems good.
btw this is a 92 Sport 4.0L

5-90

An "oil slinger" is a small shaped disc, usually stamped, whose sole purpose is to throw oil around to lubricate parts (like throwing oil onto a chain drive.) It may later be decided that it wasn't needed after all, and can therefore be deleted.

For instance, you'll find that most Dana axles have oil slingers behind the inner pinion bearing, to assist with scattering gear oil all over to make sure the bearings are fully lubricated. Some timing chain drives have oil slingers from the factory - many of them are later deleted, when they find that the "pressure splash" from the front camshaft bearing, being flung around by the camshaft sprocket, is sufficient for chain lubrication.

The disc is either flat (like in the Dana axles) or has a slight "dish" to it (like in engines, to clear the crankshaft sprocket and timing drive chain.)

sturoc

Thanks 5-90 for the explanation.
So with belt alignment good, clearance to TC cover is just enough and no strange noises coming from down there.
It would behoove me to think all is good even though have that small edge still showing on HB inside shaft( again 2-3 mm ).