Jooman07

So I'm in the middle of trying to change my timing chain set and I'm stuck on getting the crankshaft pulley off to get the timing cover off. I'm assuming the bolt in the middle needs to come out and I need to keep the pulley from turning to do so. I have the front end off and radiator out so I can get to it relatively easily but It still doesn't want to come out. All the bolts are soaking in PB blaster overnight so maybe it will be easier when I try it again. Has anyone done this easily or are they all a pain in the ? And is it just the pulley that needs to come of or does the harmonic balancer need to come off too? I rented a harmonic balancer pulley cause I thought thats what I needed but the pulley is what needs to come off first. So it's useless right now. I've seen where people will thread bolts on the holes and wedge a cheater pipe in there to keep it from turning and I've seen a couple other methods. Bu obviously I don't wanna do something that's gonna screw it up either.

Bustedback

The balancer needs to come off. Use and impact to remove the center bolt and the puller to remove the balancer from the crank.

Jooman07

I was gonna use an impact but theres no room to get one in there. I'm probably going to have to thread some bolts in the holes and keep it from turning that way.

Bustedback

A strap wrench can be used to keep the crank from spinning. You can also use the serpentine belt and a pry bar to work as a strap wrench. If it were me, I would pull the radiator out for more room to get an impact in there.

Jooman07

yeah I have the radiator out of the way, its the frame that's keeping me from getting an impact in there so I'm just looking for a different way.

So once the pulley is off, then the harmonic balancer has to come off also. THEN I can get the timing cover off?

s346k

I pulled the balancer to change my timing cover gasket and front main. I removed the pulley first then simply used a breaker bar to remove the bolt. I have a pretty nice mac tools balancer removal tool (kit) that I used. there were no tricks involved and I believe the bolt is only torqued to something like 80 lb ft. it shouldn't be a big hassle.

Roler

Using a puller tool will make things significantly easier...don't try to pry it off, if that's what you are considering. Installer tool is handy too

Jooman07

So I got it off and I'm in the process now of getting it all back together. I know from my FSM that the two dots need to be pointing at each other roughly at about 10 and 5 o'clock. I'm assuming the key on the crankshaft needs to be pointing to 12 o'clock for top dead center? That only makes sense cause in the FSM it shows the dots pointing at 10 and 5 o'clock.

Rockfrog

The crank sprocket only goes on one way, if the motor is at TDC then line the two dots up. Check the FSM as there should be a set number of chain links between marks prior to install.

Jooman07

I know the marks have to lined up. But with the crank pulley off and the sprockets off, with the key pointing to 12 o'clock is that TDC? I set it to TDC before I pulled everything apart but of course it comes off TDC while working on it.

captainwoot

Should look like this

Jooman07

Yep and that's how I installed it.

So now, it still runs like the timing is off. The codes it has thrown are the TPS, CrankPS and CamPS. All have been changed and it keeps throwing the same codes intermittently. I took a timing light to it and the hash mark that needs to be lined at the ZERO mark on the dial is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch past it when it strobes. Is that enough to make it run like crap? I'm CERTAIN I installed the chain and sprockets right. Can it being off that much be adjusted by the distributor?

I took it to a mechanic and had the run diagnostics on it and they said the timing chain is the only thing they couldn't check so that had to be it. They checked fuel pressure, injectors, pump, lines, etc.

I can tell a big difference in the way it idles after I've changed the chain and sprockets. But it still isn't good enough to drive. The way it idles is it is smooth for a few seconds then it's rough for a few. It just goes back and forth.

Rockfrog

The timing is controlled by the PCM, no way to adjust at the distributor (it is possible using indexed crank sprocket and/or modding CPS).
Did you set the correct number of pins between the timing marks? That needs to be done prior to install. There should be 15 link pins set between the timing marks, then install on the motor.

Jooman07

I didn't check that actually. I installed the crank sprocket on while the key was pointing to 12 o'clock so the crank was at TDC. Then I put the cam sprocket on and threaded the bolt so I could turn it to point towards the white dot on the crank sprocket. After that I installed the chain. After it was installed I checked to make sure they were still pointing towards each other.

Rockfrog

You should set the link distance, then install as an assembly. This keeps the slack on the correct side of the gears and sets correct base timing.
Sadly, looks like you may need to go back in and verify correct installation.
Don't feel too bad, I just did this 2 weeks ago, installed new timing gears, forgot to install slinger, pull, replace, realized I forgot tension slider, pull, replace cover... third time lucky?
The crank pulley and balancer are one unit, and prone to slippage with age, don't count on the timing marks to always be accurate on it. Start by verifying the motor is at TDC. I had the head off when I did mine so that was easy. Mark the #1 cyl wire position on the dizzy body, pop the cap and verify it is pointing close to #1 at TDC. Or feel for pressure at the spark plug hole.
Once that is verified pull timing set. count pins between timing marks, adjust as required. Reinstall, it should install with the marks lined up dead on.
At least that's how I have always done it, put on 1500km since I put my 88's motor back together. Smooth idle, plenty of power, just a little valve clatter due to an old head and pushrods (and a bit due to 15w40 and a recent temp drop) , but it just sounds like a 4.0.