Get rid of that hood prop rod forever! Use an old liftgate gas-strut. Heres how
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Get rid of that hood prop rod forever! Use an old liftgate gas-strut. Heres how
Ok.. Here is my how-to to install an old whooped liftgate support strut on an XJ hood to replace the prop-rod.
Now with VIDEO goodness. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http:...?v=NPKCcgpxwbk
Step 1) Go to the local junkyard or pick and pull and remove all 4 of the rear hatch ball mounts. Why all 4? Why not. You will need a Torx bit to remove them. Easy.
Step 2) Measure 7.5 inches from the rear of the hood along the fender and mask a mark there. Do the same at 24.5 inches on the hood for the upper mount.
24.5 inches..
Step 3) I used 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick "L" steel from somewhere to make the brackets. I used about 3 inches per bracket. Drill 2 holes for large long pop rivets and 1 large hole for the ball mounts to self thread into. Careful on the lower mount as the ball mount MUST thread into the "L" bracket. The upper one I was able to drill a tad larger and thread a nut on the ball mount to keep it from coming off.
Step 4) Mount the lower bracket with Pop Rivets to the lower rail on the inner fender by the washer bottle. I tried the upper part of the finder at first and failed miserably.
The ball mount is crooked as I drilled into the inner fender crooked because the washer bottle was in the way. The ball is VERY solid though.
Step 5) Build the upper mount out of the "L" steel and grind ALL corners smooth. Attach a ball mount to that one with a nut on the back side and pre-drill the rivet holes as before.
Step 6) Attach the upper ball mount at 24.5 inches on center to the raised part of the inner hood panel and attach with large pop-rivets.
Step 7) Grab a body with a pulse to hold the hood while you remove the original prop-rod - 10 MM bolts and toss the rod somewhere.
Step 8) Install the strut to the ball mounts and be sure to use the little clips to hold it on. (Grab them from the junkyard too).
Step 9) Enjoy your new auto-raising hood!
So.. Rear mount is 7.5 inches from the rear of the hood and is mounted to the lower flat rail on the inner fender by the washer bottle (my 92 XJ).
The upper is 24.5 inches from the rear of the hood on center.
This will allow you to use the stock gas-struts. At least the ones from my 1992 XJ for length. Adjust the distances if you have different struts.
Thanks for watching and please tip your waiter.
EDIT:
WallyWorld Oil---
When I bought my 1992 XJ it had sat for 2 years and the owner had not changed the oil in about 5 years. I used the WallyWorld 5w30 as a cheapo flush. I ran it for about 100 miles then drained it. Repeated again with 5w30 as the oil drained out pitch black- and drove another 100 miles. Drained and filled with Rotella 15w40. It has Rotella 10w30 now for the winter. Summer will go back to 15w40.
Now with VIDEO goodness. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http:...?v=NPKCcgpxwbk
Step 1) Go to the local junkyard or pick and pull and remove all 4 of the rear hatch ball mounts. Why all 4? Why not. You will need a Torx bit to remove them. Easy.
Step 2) Measure 7.5 inches from the rear of the hood along the fender and mask a mark there. Do the same at 24.5 inches on the hood for the upper mount.
24.5 inches..
Step 3) I used 1 inch by 1/8 inch thick "L" steel from somewhere to make the brackets. I used about 3 inches per bracket. Drill 2 holes for large long pop rivets and 1 large hole for the ball mounts to self thread into. Careful on the lower mount as the ball mount MUST thread into the "L" bracket. The upper one I was able to drill a tad larger and thread a nut on the ball mount to keep it from coming off.
Step 4) Mount the lower bracket with Pop Rivets to the lower rail on the inner fender by the washer bottle. I tried the upper part of the finder at first and failed miserably.
The ball mount is crooked as I drilled into the inner fender crooked because the washer bottle was in the way. The ball is VERY solid though.
Step 5) Build the upper mount out of the "L" steel and grind ALL corners smooth. Attach a ball mount to that one with a nut on the back side and pre-drill the rivet holes as before.
Step 6) Attach the upper ball mount at 24.5 inches on center to the raised part of the inner hood panel and attach with large pop-rivets.
Step 7) Grab a body with a pulse to hold the hood while you remove the original prop-rod - 10 MM bolts and toss the rod somewhere.
Step 8) Install the strut to the ball mounts and be sure to use the little clips to hold it on. (Grab them from the junkyard too).
Step 9) Enjoy your new auto-raising hood!
So.. Rear mount is 7.5 inches from the rear of the hood and is mounted to the lower flat rail on the inner fender by the washer bottle (my 92 XJ).
The upper is 24.5 inches from the rear of the hood on center.
This will allow you to use the stock gas-struts. At least the ones from my 1992 XJ for length. Adjust the distances if you have different struts.
Thanks for watching and please tip your waiter.
EDIT:
WallyWorld Oil---
When I bought my 1992 XJ it had sat for 2 years and the owner had not changed the oil in about 5 years. I used the WallyWorld 5w30 as a cheapo flush. I ran it for about 100 miles then drained it. Repeated again with 5w30 as the oil drained out pitch black- and drove another 100 miles. Drained and filled with Rotella 15w40. It has Rotella 10w30 now for the winter. Summer will go back to 15w40.
Last edited by diskman; 03-13-2009 at 06:30 PM.
#7
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Or you could use a nut and lockwasher on the lower mount, and just put it on before you rivet the L bracket to the fender. Just drill the hole big enough to allow the nut through.
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#9
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Sweet write-up!!! It's on my list of things to do! I was actually thinking about doing this myself, but you just took all the guess work out of it for me!!!
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Heh.. Actually, I did. When I bought my 1992 XJ it had sat for 2 years and the owner had not changed the oil in about 5 years. I used the WallyWorld 5w30 as a cheapo flush. I ran it for about 100 miles then drained it. Repeated again with 5w30 as the oil drained out pitch black- and drove another 100 miles. Drained and filled with Rotella 15w40. It has Rotella 10w30 now for the winter. Summer will go back to 15w40. I was waiting for someone to catch that..
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Heh.. Actually, I did. When I bought my 1992 XJ it had sat for 2 years and the owner had not changed the oil in about 5 years. I used the WallyWorld 5w30 as a cheapo flush. I ran it for about 100 miles then drained it. Repeated again with 5w30 as the oil drained out pitch black- and drove another 100 miles. Drained and filled with Rotella 15w40. It has Rotella 10w30 now for the winter. Summer will go back to 15w40. I was waiting for someone to catch that..
#13
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thats cool man, but im not sure how well that would work in the winter, because i know tailgates dont always hold themselves up in the winter time, i wouldnt want my hood falling on my head everytime it gets cold out lol
#14
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Year: 1999
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I wasn't too sure either. But, figure that the engine bay is rediculously hot on our 4.0s and the whooped gas-struts loooves that heat. Simple.
Yeah, if mine starts acting up, I will replace it with a new one. They are cheap if you buy just one.
Also, the hood is way lighter than the hatch AND the leverage is different than the hatch mounts. The strut I am using now is one from the pair that would not hold my hatch up on a hot summer day even. It actually lifts the hood by iteslf in 32 degree weather.