Is ever too late to grease?
10-31-2014, 11:50 AM
#16
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Dang! All these years I've been removing my wheels to grease the uppers when alls I had to do is turn the wheels outward to get at them. Oh well, I grease them when I've got the wheels off to grease the lowers (too lazy to switch them over to 90* zerks) and to inspect my brakes.
I know, I'm a silly goose for inspecting my brakes.
I know, I'm a silly goose for inspecting my brakes.
10-31-2014, 01:40 PM
#17
I usually grease all the front end and driveshaft when I do an oil change.........(usually around 4500-5000 miles. I use full synthetic)
I also rotate all 5 tires and inspect my brakes at the same time.
I also rotate all 5 tires and inspect my brakes at the same time.
10-31-2014, 08:24 PM
#18
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Maybe not goofy if the later have a zirk on the lower ball joint you can reach with the wheel off. I don't think I have a lower zirk, and will rotate my tires and inspect my brakes when I feel like it. Drive on the ramps, hit the zirks, 10 minutes, Done.
On a stock 90, 8 easy up front, (includes 2 top Ball joints, wheels straight), very front, and, rear U-joints missed, front of rear drive-line hit makes 9. Double cardigan on the rear of the front drive-line...maybe another day!
Very front, and, rear U-joints, could be hit if I unbolted the joint, (the rear at least) That double cardigan..Ha ha. (Glad I have a disco) Not seeing reaching that.
On a stock 90, 8 easy up front, (includes 2 top Ball joints, wheels straight), very front, and, rear U-joints missed, front of rear drive-line hit makes 9. Double cardigan on the rear of the front drive-line...maybe another day!
Very front, and, rear U-joints, could be hit if I unbolted the joint, (the rear at least) That double cardigan..Ha ha. (Glad I have a disco) Not seeing reaching that.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-31-2014 at 10:27 PM.
10-31-2014, 08:40 PM
#19
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Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0 I-6
I use the hose fitting on my grease gun that replaces the standard steel one. It's a little more difficult sometimes because it's flexible unlike the rigid steel, but you get used to it. I can get to all my fitting without removing anything or having to raise the vehicle.
11-01-2014, 06:30 AM
#20
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I use the hose fitting on my grease gun that replaces the standard steel one. It's a little more difficult sometimes because it's flexible unlike the rigid steel, but you get used to it. I can get to all my fitting without removing anything or having to raise the vehicle.
Yes I do also and along with the fact I have quite a few (aftermarket) zerks that some do not have, it takes me longer, but hell I'm "OLD and Slow".
As when to do a lube job and differential check depends on a lot of factors time/mileage/ in water use, all of these dictate when it should be done. The first 2 are easy 3mo. or 2500-3000mi. or any time I've been in deeper water or mud where they could enter axle seal's, vents, etc.. Out of 7 cars/trucks/SUV's the XJ is the only one that does not get full syn. motor oil, it uses Castrol 30w summer and 10w30 winter.
I drain and change differential lube at least every 3 mo. as I have drain plugs on the covers making it easy to do and the lube is cheap.
11-01-2014, 09:02 AM
#21
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I use the hose fitting on my grease gun that replaces the standard steel one. It's a little more difficult sometimes because it's flexible unlike the rigid steel, but you get used to it. I can get to all my fitting without removing anything or having to raise the vehicle.
Maybe that's why I feel it's so easy.
Word to the wise while we're on the subject.
How many of you have lubed the double cardon joint at the rear of the front driveshaft?
Requires a needle fitting and sometimes removal of the front shaft from the transfer case.
11-03-2014, 10:17 AM
#22
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I've never owned a grease gun without a hose!! LOL.
Maybe that's why I feel it's so easy.
Word to the wise while we're on the subject.
How many of you have lubed the double cardon joint at the rear of the front driveshaft?
Requires a needle fitting and sometimes removal of the front shaft from the transfer case.
Maybe that's why I feel it's so easy.
Word to the wise while we're on the subject.
How many of you have lubed the double cardon joint at the rear of the front driveshaft?
Requires a needle fitting and sometimes removal of the front shaft from the transfer case.
11-03-2014, 11:49 AM
#23
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Is ever too late to grease?
When the joints/bearings/whatever is so shot that you need to replace it, it's too late to grease.
Anything sooner than that is NOT too late.
When in doubt, grease it.
11-03-2014, 02:38 PM
#24
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11-03-2014, 03:23 PM
#25
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11-06-2014, 05:08 PM
#26
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Year: 1990
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I've never owned a grease gun without a hose!! LOL.
Maybe that's why I feel it's so easy.
Word to the wise while we're on the subject.
How many of you have lubed the double cardon joint at the rear of the front driveshaft?
Requires a needle fitting and sometimes removal of the front shaft from the transfer case.
Maybe that's why I feel it's so easy.
Word to the wise while we're on the subject.
How many of you have lubed the double cardon joint at the rear of the front driveshaft?
Requires a needle fitting and sometimes removal of the front shaft from the transfer case.
11-06-2014, 09:02 PM
#27
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11-06-2014, 09:52 PM
#30
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That's personal preference. If you don't abuse those u joints or submerge them in mud/water a lot then yes they are better. But non-greaseable are stronger and they last long as well, my passenger side axle u joint needs replacing and it's 26 years old non-grease spicer, that's what I'm replacing it with as well. If they are not greaseable I would recommend put a shot or so of grease in the caps so they have a lot to start with.
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