Do I need a drop pitman arm??
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do I need a drop pitman arm??
I have a RE 3.5 superflex on its way to my door , and got to wondering if I need a drop pitman arm or not? I've searched but I havn't read much about them on here with 3.5", other than i think I read somewhere about using a grand cherokee arm....??? If i need one I want to get it so I'm all ready to go for install time!!
I also just ordered axle shims and can easily fabricate t-case drops if i need them, but I plan to try it without first, don't know if thats smart or not though.
I also just ordered axle shims and can easily fabricate t-case drops if i need them, but I plan to try it without first, don't know if thats smart or not though.
Last edited by fox128; 10-26-2008 at 02:06 PM.
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L I-4
I have that same lift and didn't install a new pitman arm. No issues that I can tell.
And yes, you're better off to get it all installed and run it for a few days to determine whether or not you need the t-case drop or axle shims. All Jeeps are different due to differentiated use and wear, so there are no definite answers when it comes to things like that.
And yes, you're better off to get it all installed and run it for a few days to determine whether or not you need the t-case drop or axle shims. All Jeeps are different due to differentiated use and wear, so there are no definite answers when it comes to things like that.
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
I have that same lift and didn't install a new pitman arm. No issues that I can tell.
And yes, you're better off to get it all installed and run it for a few days to determine whether or not you need the t-case drop or axle shims. All Jeeps are different due to differentiated use and wear, so there are no definite answers when it comes to things like that.
And yes, you're better off to get it all installed and run it for a few days to determine whether or not you need the t-case drop or axle shims. All Jeeps are different due to differentiated use and wear, so there are no definite answers when it comes to things like that.
Those members who have filled out that type info on their profile will have a drop down menu below their screen name that details the year, engine, tranny, transfercase and axles. There is a place to add things like your upcoming lift and other improvemnts you make.
#5
FWIW,
A ZJ pitman arm has 3/4 - 1" more drop than a stock XJ pitman arm.
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You need to give a little more info about your Jeep. Year and such to determine the odds of you needing a drop or shims or even a SYE, but it is difficult without you adding that info in your profile.
Those members who have filled out that type info on their profile will have a drop down menu below their screen name that details the year, engine, tranny, transfercase and axles. There is a place to add things like your upcoming lift and other improvemnts you make.
Those members who have filled out that type info on their profile will have a drop down menu below their screen name that details the year, engine, tranny, transfercase and axles. There is a place to add things like your upcoming lift and other improvemnts you make.
#7
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Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
With a 2000, I can almost guarantee you will need a SYE, as 96 & newer XJ's have very bad driveline vibes above stock ride height.
OR
at the very least a 1" tc drop to alleviate the vibes until a SYE can be purchased/installed.
OR
at the very least a 1" tc drop to alleviate the vibes until a SYE can be purchased/installed.
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#8
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
one more thing to note..if you have bad driveshaft u-joints before the lift the vibes will be intensified..Like others have said 96 and newer you will almost be guaranteed driveline vibes...Frankz hit the nail on the head with the Drop pitman arm...
#9
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you dont need a new pitman are but if you going wheeling with it youll need a sye/ and rear driveshaft with a double carden. I took my driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and had my cut and added a double carden, and they balanced it too. No more problems
#10
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok....well it sounds like i'd better plan on putting in the axle shims and tcase drop and maybe new u-joints right away and hope it works. so the sye is a must for wheeling? becasue it will pull off the output shaft of the t-case at full-droop or what? could i make some limiting straps to get me by until i can get a sye?
also- i was reading the install directions and it says the rear sway bar will be removed and not put back on. I understand this will be good for flex, but why don't they just make discos for the back too and not sacrifice so much street handling or does it not matter? I saw the super ride kit said the same thing.
i also took someone's advice on here and bought a can of pb blaster and everything is now soaking in it, waiting for a rainy day when i can install!
also- i was reading the install directions and it says the rear sway bar will be removed and not put back on. I understand this will be good for flex, but why don't they just make discos for the back too and not sacrifice so much street handling or does it not matter? I saw the super ride kit said the same thing.
i also took someone's advice on here and bought a can of pb blaster and everything is now soaking in it, waiting for a rainy day when i can install!
Last edited by fox128; 10-28-2008 at 08:14 AM.
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Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
also- i was reading the install directions and it says the rear sway bar will be removed and not put back on. I understand this will be good for flex, but why don't they just make discos for the back too and not sacrifice so much street handling or does it not matter? I saw the super ride kit said the same thing.
The rear swaybar endlinks are extremely SMALL.
There is no way to make them disco. Other than totally redesigning the whole set-up.
I currently have NO ideas on this.
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Year: 2000 XJ Classic,
Model: Cherokee
Engine: XJ 4.0
i have a 4.5'' RC lift and a drop pitman is a must, to much wear on the joints and what not being at the angle. makes it a little wobbley. it probley couldn't hurt with a 3.5
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
also- i was reading the install directions and it says the rear sway bar will be removed and not put back on. I understand this will be good for flex, but why don't they just make discos for the back too and not sacrifice so much street handling or does it not matter? I saw the super ride kit said the same thing.
...And to RomanS above: I respectfully disagree about your opinions on the pitman arm. It's not even close to a "must" at 4.5" (I have 2 XJ's at 4.5" and both are on the stock pitman arm FYI. No bump-steer what-so-ever, which is what a drop pitman arm will address).
Last edited by TheNerd; 04-20-2012 at 10:39 AM.
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Lots of good info in this thread mixed with some crap, so here's a recap.
The rear sway bar is borderline useless on a solid leaf sprung rear axle, and being so small any positive effects are marginal, you won't notice when it's not there.
Drop pitman arms are part of a fix for bumpsteer, don't bother with it unless you can't get the draglink/trackbar parallel.
Sye/tcase drop/shims address the vibes from an increased driveline angle, replacing the worn/old ujoints will help avoid vibes as well, they can be temperamental if they've been at the same angle for some years.
Sye is the ultimate fix, the tcase drop is considered more of a bandaid, and shims are pretty handy in combination with either or alone. It all depends on your particular situation and setup, basically you're gonna want to install the lift then address the vibes afterwords, same as the draglink/trackbar angles.
Edit: holy old thread revival. Still good info to be had though.
The rear sway bar is borderline useless on a solid leaf sprung rear axle, and being so small any positive effects are marginal, you won't notice when it's not there.
Drop pitman arms are part of a fix for bumpsteer, don't bother with it unless you can't get the draglink/trackbar parallel.
Sye/tcase drop/shims address the vibes from an increased driveline angle, replacing the worn/old ujoints will help avoid vibes as well, they can be temperamental if they've been at the same angle for some years.
Sye is the ultimate fix, the tcase drop is considered more of a bandaid, and shims are pretty handy in combination with either or alone. It all depends on your particular situation and setup, basically you're gonna want to install the lift then address the vibes afterwords, same as the draglink/trackbar angles.
Edit: holy old thread revival. Still good info to be had though.
Last edited by storm101; 04-20-2012 at 11:36 AM.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The Jeep factory "Up Country" suspension come without rear sway bar (FYI). Since there is very little weight in the rear of the Jeep, they are not necessary. I know very few jeepers who actually still have a rear sway bar.
...And to RomanS above: I respectfully disagree about your opinions on the pitman arm. It's not even close to a "must" at 4.5" (I have 2 XJ's at 4.5" and both are on the stock pitman arm FYI. No bump-steer what-so-ever, which is what a drop pitman arm will address).
...And to RomanS above: I respectfully disagree about your opinions on the pitman arm. It's not even close to a "must" at 4.5" (I have 2 XJ's at 4.5" and both are on the stock pitman arm FYI. No bump-steer what-so-ever, which is what a drop pitman arm will address).
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