Murf

Is this a straight remove and replace job nearly anyone could easily do? Any pitfalls to be wary of? I'm thinking of this and plugs today.

XxXJ99xX

Its a very easy job, theres just two small bolts holding the distributor cap on, I think there 8MM's? Also the gap on the spark plugs are .35 and The hardest spark plug to get to is probably the last and the first because of the heater core hoses but its not really a big deal at all unless your engine is hot. Heres the firing order:

freegdr

yes just do one wire at a time as to not get the firing order wrong

tjwalker

I recommend buying a premium cap and rotor if there are two levels of parts at your parts store. Not that much more. The premium parts should come with BRASS contacts, instead of aluminum.

Champion copper plugs are a good choice for your 95. Gapped of course to .035

radio flyer

Make sure you keep the wires the way they came off!! Start with number one cylinder and note where it came off of the dist. cap-
Wow!!!! I'm SLOWWWWWW

Murf

You are correct! I checked and its only $4 more for the cap.

Thanks for the good info.

no rdplz

Use some di-electric grease on the cap/wire connections and the wire/plug connections as well. It's a good idea to put a thin layer of it on the bottom of the cap too so it has a "seal" against water possibly getting in there.

freegdr

most people go by the screw on dist cap this pic is incorrect do not refer to it

peep

Why is there a little vent cap on the distributor cap? Only seen this on jeep application. Should this be sealed for water crossing applications? Those illustrations are great, thanks.

Kenny Hatcher

followed order to the tee but misfireing gap is right also i dont understand it

Ralph77

Here is the one thing I think you will need to know for the cap and rotor. What distributor you have in there. I want to say it could be one of two. At least in a '96 it was. There should be a white tag on the distributor that has an 8 digit number starting with a 5 on it. You will need to know this to get the right cap and rotor. If the tag is long gone bring the rotor with you. The difference is the size of the shaft the rotor goes on. One bigger, one smaller. When they match up the rotor they will be able to give you the right cap.

97grand4.0

It can be a big deal, yes, especially the plugs coming out in one piece. Do it with a cold engine, (or is it hot I can't remember). I had an experience with my son's xj 4.0,..when he got it the plugs weren't changed in 100 years and the whole electrode came separate from the outside ring, and pulled out with the plug wire. Be very careful that the engine is cold first esp if they are turning out hard.. you really don't want to drop part of a plug in the cylinder, or cross thread or strip the block.

John T

Good advice.

Mine came out very hard the last change.

If they are giving you resistance,
spray them with PB blaster turn them counterclockwise, then clockwise...
back and forth to help loosen them up....

I put a dab of anti-seize on the new plugs... just to make me feel better.

cruiser54

All of those pics illustrating the firing order are WRONG!!!!

Texas Hank Palmer

Did you even read or look at those pictures? Every single one said the firing order is 153624 with 1 being the front piston and 6 being the back. Your picture is exactly the same firing order (153624) with 1 being the front and 6 being the back..