This project started after reading several threads on the onerous task to dealing with Oil Filter Adapter oil leaks. Some folks having to use 30" of leverage to break the bolt loose that attaches to Adapter to the block, because the factory has red Locktited it on. Like many others I suspected a rear main oil leak as the wind and gravity makes it cover everything behind it such as starter and rear main area. It was seeing oil all over the top of the starter that clued me in that it was the adapter. The best solution is to eliminate the adaptor putting a smaller oil filter directly to the block. I have done so and it works great, zero oil drip, same oil pressure as before, its easier to change the OF that before AND NO MORE OIL FILTER ADAPTOR TO LEAK AS THEY ALL DO AS the O-RING NEVER GETS REPLACED ON OIL CHANGES AND IS A TOTAL BEAR TO DO.
The genesis of this was a post by Gunner, thanks Gunner:
03-28-2010, 12:34 PM #20 Combat_Gunner
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mount Juliet, TN
1993 Cherokee Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0 I6
Transmission: AW-4 Automatic
Transfer Case: NP231
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Chrysler 8.25
Tires: 31x10.50/15 Pro Comp MTs
Lift Specifications: 2" front pucks, 2" rear blocks
Misc Accessories: Fenders cut, CB, modified bumpers, exhaust, '98 intake manifold, K&N air cleaner
This is an old thread, but I wanted to chime in here, for the many who will eventually need to fix this leak. Once you have the oil filter adapter removed from the block, you'll notice the threads to which the filter attaches have a 1" hex head around them. Using a 1" socket, you can remove this male/male thread adapter and screw it directly into the side of your engine block, to eliminate the 90* elbow adapter. After buying the O-ring kit and spending several hours getting the thing off, it seemed ridiculous to put the adapter back on there, when I could simply thread the filter directly to the engine and remove the possibility of future leaks from the adapter. There is a roll pin that locates the adapter, it must be pulled out of the block, but otherwise it's a simple matter of using the male/male adapter out of the elbow assembly, threading it into the block, and screwing on a new filter. Access to the filter is now easier, the only O-ring involved gets replaced with the filter, and you'll never have to deal with a leaky oil filter adapter again.
Yes, oil will run down the side of your engine when you change the filter. I own a Harley, so I'm accustomed to that. That is why I keep a supply of carburetor cleaner on hand. After the oil and filter change, just douse the whole oily area generously with cleaner, let the mess run off into your oil catch pan, and go on with your life.
I found that post to be true and have finished the job.
Here are two threads on the problem and various ways to break the OFA bolt loose. Both have a bunch of photos, hence why postig them. But there is a better way.http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Oil_Filter_Mount_O-Rings.htm
Without having to remove the motor mount and jack up the engine nor weld up special tools I was able to not only get the adaptor out, but also eliminate the adaptor and not have to buy the O-Rings nor ever have to deal with this problem again. This job takes less time than replacing the O-Rings and facing the same problem again (with these instructions).
Here are the steps, read all of them first before starting, not too long:
1. The Adapter either has a female hex or TORX, the TORX is T60 and more common. I have 96 XJ 4.0 it was TORX.
2. Used a std TORX L Wrench set from O'Rielly's. Brand is Performance Tool # W1319 it has T40 thru T60, you only need the T60 AND the T55, more on T55 later. Only $10 :-)
3. I did not remove Battery cable at first, mistake I did arc a wrench from block to starter after the adaptor was off getting the roll pin out. Remove a Battery post cable.
4. Work from underneath, I have 32" tires and fit without jacking. Underneath is easy.
5. Suggest engine cleaner/steam clean the entire passger side of engine on top and underneath first, and if the bolt torx hole is plugged with mud and oil like mine, use coat hanger and spray with WD40 or something, scrape it out.
6. Getting that T60 L Wrench aligned was one of hardest parts, did so from below. It took me minutes to get it aligned and drop in. Used screwdriver to pry the elbow part to seat as deep as possible, very close to a bolt on frame.
7. Have oil pan ready, it will leak.
7B. Leave the Oil Filter ON the adaptor, easier that way, only one drip to deal with.
8. Used a 3/8 drive deep socket about 9/16" over the long end of L wrench and connected three 3/8" extensions together about 20" total. Two and 17" were not enough. Some people have gone 30" before it broke. A 1/2" socket and extensions would be even better. Presto, think got the bolt loose easier than anyone else have heard of. Good news, did no alteration except steam clean (wish did even more) and remove starter cable hold down bolt next to adaptor. No Motor mount no nothing.
9. The t60 L Wrench requires less clearance than 1/2 drive socket others have used, thus why they welded up custom tools and removing the motor mount, this technique requires no extra work. But even with a T-60 L Wrench it might hit frame before 100% out that is where the T55 comes in below.
10. I was able after 1/2 turn with helper extensions to use just the T60 L Wrench to back it out. It will start leaking, have a pan under it. Let it leak till slows.
11. The perfect tool to back out bolt more after no longer high torque is a T55 L wrench, remembered it grabbed, much much much easier to align. If you wrench from outside under (away from block) you can do it while its dripping without getting oily.
12. After about 3-4 turns the oil filter and the adaptor (left as one unit) can rotate (the locating roll pin inside is cleared. Thus you turn the oil filter all the way up. And BTW do all this from below except rotate the entire assembly, which did from above. I was able to do all this with zero mods, just took out the bolt that holds the starter cable and moved the starter cable behind the oil filter while it was still attached.
13. Pointing the oil filter up will (hopefully) just about empty both, it will pour more oil at this point. Now point the oil filter down so when it comes loose no oil will come out.
14. Next step is to remove assembly, just keep using the t55, its fast.
It dropped free easy and with oil out and tilting up no oil drip.
14B. Now for a tricky part the roll pin that prevents the adaptor from rotating needs to be removed, destroying it is fine but you do not want to leave half of it. 10" vise grips full on did not do it. Was thinking of chiseling it as where it goes is inside gasket mating surface and deeper. Those threads referenced at top of this post have pics of roll pin and everything else FYI. Then remembered my bolt cutters.
Perfect crushed the pin 50% from underneath with the bolt cutter then pried it against block and bingo it came out.
14C. Remove the double male nipple that the oil filter screws down on step on original post. Glad this board has edit feature. Take the OF and Adaptor as one unit, put adaptor in vise gently then remove the filter with pan under it.
14D. You will see a 1" hex nut on double nipple inside, with 1" socket remove it, normal threads do it counterclockwise.
14E. Now with a 1" socket install on the block where the TORX bolt was. A wrench will not work well, its recessed, get a socket. I cleaned the threads and then sprayed primer on threads that goes into the block. And torqued down while wet. Have found paint and primer make a decent low strengh locktite and prevent rust on external bolts. Wipe off any that ozzes out.
15. The original OF was a tad too big to fit FYI directly to the block, width issue against the motor mount area. But a Fram Ph 3614 fits great.
16. Now for a tricky part the roll pin that prevents the adaptor from rotating needs to be removed, destroying it is fine but you do not want to leave half of it. 10" vise grips full on did not do it. Was thinking of chiseling it as where it goes is inside gasket mating surface and deeper. Those threads referenced at top of this post have pics of roll pin and everything else FYI. Then remembered my bolt cutters.
Perfect crushed the pin 50% from underneath with the bolt cutter then pried it against block and bingo it came out. :-)
17. The job is done, except for putting a new oil filter back on, The stock one is a bit wide, but a Fram PH 3614 is a perfect fit, identical gasket diameter and threads. I put on an even smaller Mobil one but will soon swap in the 3614. The Ph 3614 is used on Toy FJs, full size pickup trucks and Lexus and Ford V8s. Its smaller so it fits.
You are done no more oil leaks, mine has not leaked a drop in two days and 150 miles. No more Adapter to leak in the future. The oil pressure is identical to what it was before 60 PSI.
Here are specs on oil filter to use:
Manufacturer's Part Number PH3614
Part Type Oil Filters
Product Line Fram Extra Guard Oil Filters
Summit Racing Part Number FRM-PH3614
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 3.360 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.000 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 9-12 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Thread Size 3/4-16 in.
Gasket Outside Diameter (in) 2.781 in.
Gasket Inside Diameter (in) 2.484 in.
Gasket Thickness (in) 0.203 in.
Thanks for all those who provide info on this, these forums are great time savers. I will post this alone after posting at end of this thread.
Now have two photos to show the 3 filters (orig, too small and just right Ph3614) and the correct one installed: And the filter has 1" clearance near the block despite how pic looks, that stuff is way above it, but does have at the closest about 5/16" forward to frame support for mount. No reason for it to hit, I tested it on bumps etc.
Those two above are 3 meg images, here is a 190k inserted.