bradleyheathhays

96 XJ 4.0 at 125k here, and I got a coolant leak dripping from my lower radiator hose that seems to be running down from the radiator side. The connection is so far up in there I can't see exactly what's going on. So, looks like I gotta start jerking stuff out the top and possibly take my entire radiator out(?) to get down there to see what's going on.

Whats the easiest way to get to the lower rad hose so I can take a look at this leak?

Before next winter I've been wanting to install a block heater, the kind that installs into your lower rad hose, so I guess now would be a good time to get that done.

Any advice? Thanks.

01cherokeexj

Take out the air filter box, that's what I did

wjnfirearms

Both ends of the lower hose are right there if you remove the air box. Remove the corrugated hose, open the box and remove the bolt and nut, and the box comes right out. It's an easy hose to service then.

xj wheeler

I've replaced it before with just removing the electric fan.

bradleyheathhays

Yes, looks like I'll be able to jerk the air box and e-fan and get to things just fine.

Have advice elsewhere that I might go ahead and take my radiator out to do a pro-active coolant system check, which probably wouldn't hurt.

So, say I get my radiator out and I'm inspecting. What should I look for in the way of worn equipment, etc. that maybe needs to be replaced?

Thanks.

Screwd up 6

No need to pull the fan, just the air box. My lower hose had a spring in it to keep it from collapsing...I took that out and put it in the new hose when I did my swap.

Roadmister

Spend a few dollars on some new screw style hose clamps and save yourself the struggle that goes with removing & installing those squeeze ones in a tight place.

SnakeEyes814

Yes! I've had one of those spring style pop out of a channel lock plier and smack me right in the finger tip. doesn't sound too bad, but it hurt like a mother.

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Makarov

+1. Very good advice.

waltermitty

Actually...the constant pressure type clamps are far superior to the "screw type" clamps in every way, especially in their ability to eliminate cold flow. All it takes is the proper tool to deal with the clamp. You dont even have to remove the air box to get to it. Harbor Freight has a cheap version for under $10.00. I imagine the Snap-On dealer has a version he would love to sell for around $50.00 or more. Some versions are in pliers form. The one I purchased at HF has the clamping mechanism at the end of a cable attached to pliers with a locking mechanism. The lock makes it a breeze to control the clamp once opened and the small clamping and release head on a cable makes it easy to reach the small confines of modern engine compartments.

Turbo X_J

There is also the Lisle 17100. You might want to also pressure test the system before you tear it down, the leak may be coming from the water pump.

wjnfirearms

At least from my experience, corrosion is the biggest issue with these radiators. I have to assume it's geographical. We have corrosion issues in this part of the US to a greater degree due to road deicing products in the winter. I had to replace all the radiators in all of the XJs we owned, with the exception of the '98 I currently own. It was bought second hand and looks like it was replaced prior. The cores eventually fell apart.

waltermitty

Mine is a '98 from the Shennendoah National Park in Virginia. Not sure if it is the salt air from the Atlantic or anti-icing from the road way but everything aluminum under my hood is corroded as well. Anyone know of a spray-on product that eats corrosion without harming anything else?

SnakeEyes814

When aluminum oxidates it forms a protective coating. If you remove it and dont paint or polish with a wax of some sort it will just oxidate again.

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SnakeEyes814

Btw I got my 99 from mt vernon natl park in va, did you get yours though gsa?

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