wikiwaugh

Finally got down to working on my lack of headlights. Found the harness under the hood was melted and corroded.

I don't mind if it's a stupid question, but is there any harm in just bypassing this and connecting the wires to their appropriate other half?

Thanks in advance, going to sit here with some beers and stare at it for a while...

xjsnake

You can wire the headlights through a 3 position switch (on 1, on 2, off) with relays after the switch supplying power to the bulbs.

It will give you low beams (on 1) high beams (on 2) and off control without having to hack into the melted harness

You will in essence do two of these circuits with each one being powered off the on 1 and the other off the on 2 with the power going to the appropriate pins on the bulbs.

bulrid8

Make a new harness with bigger wire and relays for high and low. Then use the stock wire to trigger relays. Still controlled by headlight switch and lights will be brighter.

Turbo X_J

Or use a double throw relay.

wikiwaugh

Forgive my lack of wire routing knowledge here. What I've done so far is eliminate that harness. I like the idea of a dual throw switch, the same as I just used for the Taurus fan swap.

At this point, I imagine it wouldn't be beneficial to just relocate the necessary wires at the headlight switch for the dual throw?

I've tested and checked all ground/fuse/relay connections. My problem being that all my lights are functional apart from having to literally hold the high beam switch while I drive to get headlights on. And that only provides high beams, no low beam.

Hope none of that was confusing. Thanks so much for that diagram

94XjSport94

The lights aren't supposed to run hi and lows at the same time. Just use 10 gauge wire and make a set of headlights with Autopal housings and H4 bulbs.

salad

Or just solder those wires, eliminating that connector, and install this:

cruiser54

Yes.

And isn't that connector the one old Cruiser always carps about in his Connector Refreshing write-up? Sho nuff is:

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012

wikiwaugh

Thanks Salad, might as well dive in and make it all worth while! I'll order a set on Friday

The 10-pin connector you've referred to is the one shown in the photos I posted. It was melted and corroded beyond repair. I have removed that harness and reconnected the wires to their counterparts

I will try the suggestions provided, thanks for all the help!

cruiser54

I know yours was. If someone had gotten to it sooner, the problem could have been avoided. Just making a point for others to check theirs out.

salad

It's cruiser's mission to go back in time and make everyone follow his writeups

wikiwaugh

Oh I see, my bad.

I have read a few of your write-ups, of which I will be doing over the next week. Winter rush.

cruiser54

Welcome to the Twilight Zone.....

mikesignal

I just upgraded my 2000 xj today-- I used the putco harness and the autopal H4 housings, 55/65 bulbs....huge difference.

cruiser54

Absolutely. Simple, easy, and cheap. With excellent results.