Brake Job Question
08-13-2013, 01:00 AM
#16
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Location: Wisconsin
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Model: Cherokee
I am still thinking about changing the soft lines on the brakes and worry that I will end up needing to cut the end if the nut rounds off. Would something like this, in the proper length of course, be good to just replace the hard line from the master cylinder down to the wheel well to connect to a new soft line?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0833&ppt=C0066
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0833&ppt=C0066
And yeah, you'll end up twisting a few fittings off. Good excuse to replace the old hard lines.
08-13-2013, 05:29 AM
#17
Caracticus Potts The Mod
getting back to your "death shake" pull the rotors back off and make sure that the hub flange is clean and free of debris, if the rotor did not seat correctly the wheel will also not seat correctly because it mounts flush to the rotor hub.
08-17-2013, 01:56 PM
#18
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
One more think I can check off the list of restoring this thing back to good condition
08-17-2013, 02:32 PM
#20
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When you're ready to buy the parts for the brake job (or anything else), go here to use the appropriate promo code from Advance and save LOTS of $$$. I still can't believe these codes are out there and so many people don't know about them. I just picked up two new rotors and a set of their top of the line pads for a net cost of $80 after the promo code and rebate. Sweeeeeet.
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
08-17-2013, 03:58 PM
#21
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
I will remember that for when I do the rears. I just got enough fluid to flush the rear lines and cylinders after getting the tires today, pedal feels even better now. There was so much brown sludge in the system is it a wonder they even worked a little bit when I got it.
Once I save a little more money I will probably get a new master cylinder and soft lines to finish the brake rebuild, oh and E-Brake cables, the ones on it now are completely gone, just little stubs left, rest are rusted away.
The one man bleeding trick works great, and once you get fluid to a wheel you really don't have to continue to pump the pedal, you just let it siphon until no more bubbles appear then pump a couple times to finish it off.
I will keep updating this as I finish everything off so there will be a complete thread on a whole brake rebuild.
Once I save a little more money I will probably get a new master cylinder and soft lines to finish the brake rebuild, oh and E-Brake cables, the ones on it now are completely gone, just little stubs left, rest are rusted away.
The one man bleeding trick works great, and once you get fluid to a wheel you really don't have to continue to pump the pedal, you just let it siphon until no more bubbles appear then pump a couple times to finish it off.
I will keep updating this as I finish everything off so there will be a complete thread on a whole brake rebuild.
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