2dr98xj

Blew rear brake line lost all fluid so I replaced all the lines front to back all the lines filled full of fluid bled them still pedal goes to floor...was told I could bleed them by loosening the brake lines and letting them drip out and our by opening them as someone pushes pedal and retighten them as pedal is held to floor my bleeders are all seized just tring to get some brakes to make it to my dad's garage as the weather sucks here...if I replace front calipers and bleed them will I at least have front brakes?

brielly1

You cant bleed them by loosening the brake line. The bleeder must be used or you'll suck air back into the lines. Stuck bleeders are a pain and the main reason why my truck has new calipers and wheel cylinders. Hopefully you'll have better luck getting them out.

2dr98xj

Ok thanks for the answer looks like it's trailer time

jedijeb

Best thing is to use a line wrench on the bleeders, less likely to round them off. First time I bled mine after buying my 85xj a few years ago I had to use the line wrench and a short cheater pipe, but putting a hard steady pressure on it finally broke it loose.

To bleed by yourself, you can find some tubing that will slip over the end of the bleeder and drop the open end into a bottle half full of brake fluid, open the bleeder and pump the pedal slowly. The old fluid will pump put, and as you release the pedal the fluid in the bottle will draw back slightly but will keep air from getting back in the system. After I got flow started on mine it would just gravity flow and flush with the top off of the master cylinder. Once it flows clear and bubble free, just close the bleeder and you are done.

nujeepguy

i replaced front line and long line to rear. pumped new juice till it dripped at the fittings. then tightened them. lucky, got solid brakes.if rear are not well adjusted and bled the front, my experience, will not work. many cars same results, no back, no front!
u gotta adjust rear for very slight drag,, VERY SLIGHT...

Turbo X_J

If the master cylinder was run dry you have to bench bleed that first, then PR-DR-PF-DF.

mo8414

Bleed the master cylender first. Then Have someone step on the pedal, loosen line that connects to caliper or wheel cylender. Retighten the line and let the pedel go back up. I have had to do it like this and it worked just fine. Try taking some heat to the bleeder.

​​​​​​​I know on motorcycles they will zip tie the break pedal down over night to get any air that might be stuck out, don't know if it would work for a car.

nujeepguy

i just added juice and pumped it thru the slightly open lines,refilled, let it sit 5 min, tightened fittings. didnt mess with bleeders that i knew i would break off. got firm solid brakes. if rear dont work, nuttin works...

Turbo X_J

Bleeder screw (where the air bubble will be) is located above where the line enters. Have to free the bleeders or start replacing components.

BillyBoy

I hit my bleeder screws with a wire brush to knock off most of the junk... then pb blast soaked them for a few hours. A box end wrench, tapping each direction with a light hammer freed them. Good luck bro, I live in Michigan. I know what a ***** rust can be.

robertj

I am a big believer in reverse bleed kits, and after a proper bench bleed of the master cylinder are a sure thing.