Can't Get Front Hub Off - It's Rusted On
#1
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Can't Get Front Hub Off - It's Rusted On
I'm replacing my front axle U-Joints and I cannot get the front hub off. This is a Jeep that's spent its whole life in places where they salt the roads and the hub seems to be rusted on.
I've removed the big 36 mm axle nut and the three 13 mm 12-point bolts holding the hub on (and were they ever a pain to remove!!!). But now I can't get the hub to separate from the car.
I've tried driving putty knife in between the hub and the dust shield that it sits against as I saw done on a YouTube video, and I've tried whacking it hard with a hammer (to the point I'm afraid of destroying the bearings), but it will not budge.
Any ideas?
I've removed the big 36 mm axle nut and the three 13 mm 12-point bolts holding the hub on (and were they ever a pain to remove!!!). But now I can't get the hub to separate from the car.
I've tried driving putty knife in between the hub and the dust shield that it sits against as I saw done on a YouTube video, and I've tried whacking it hard with a hammer (to the point I'm afraid of destroying the bearings), but it will not budge.
Any ideas?
#2
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
I used a small chisel placed in the fat side of the hub (away from the bolt holes) to drive it in between the hub and knuckle. I few moderate bangs with the hammer did it for me.
Used plenty of penetrating oil too.
Used plenty of penetrating oil too.
#3
Senior Member
The difficulty means that the correct process is being followed.
Why not replace the 12-point bolts, but leave them loose?
Place a block of solid steel between the knuckle and the bolt. Then turn the steering wheel so the steering forces the bolt to push off the bearing.
Why not replace the 12-point bolts, but leave them loose?
Place a block of solid steel between the knuckle and the bolt. Then turn the steering wheel so the steering forces the bolt to push off the bearing.
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
The difficulty means that the correct process is being followed.
Why not replace the 12-point bolts, but leave them loose?
Place a block of solid steel between the knuckle and the bolt. Then turn the steering wheel so the steering forces the bolt to push off the bearing.
Why not replace the 12-point bolts, but leave them loose?
Place a block of solid steel between the knuckle and the bolt. Then turn the steering wheel so the steering forces the bolt to push off the bearing.
You can also try leaving the bolts partially threaded in on the back side, and use them to hammer against. It may mess up the bolts but shouldnt destroy the hub itself.
#5
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by LACK
This is the way i'd go. ^^
You can also try leaving the bolts partially threaded in on the back side, and use them to hammer against. It may mess up the bolts but shouldnt destroy the hub itself.
You can also try leaving the bolts partially threaded in on the back side, and use them to hammer against. It may mess up the bolts but shouldnt destroy the hub itself.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I got it off!
Thanks so much. I tried using the steering to force it off, but it wasn't strong enough. In the end, I replaced the bolts partially on (why didn't I think of that?!), protected them with a impact wrench strength socket and beat the crap out of it (including whacking the flange the wheel studs go into) with a BFH. It worked, and no damage done.
Part II: There's NO WAY I am going to be able to get the old U-Joint out - just too rusted in place - I beat at it with a sledgehammer for almost an hour. I'm done. I'll take the two driveshafts to my mechanic and let him deal with it - it'll be well worth the money!
Again, thanks for the help!
Best wishes,
John
P.S. You've got the cleanest Jeep underside I've ever seen in my life Wingless! Wow!!!!
Thanks so much. I tried using the steering to force it off, but it wasn't strong enough. In the end, I replaced the bolts partially on (why didn't I think of that?!), protected them with a impact wrench strength socket and beat the crap out of it (including whacking the flange the wheel studs go into) with a BFH. It worked, and no damage done.
Part II: There's NO WAY I am going to be able to get the old U-Joint out - just too rusted in place - I beat at it with a sledgehammer for almost an hour. I'm done. I'll take the two driveshafts to my mechanic and let him deal with it - it'll be well worth the money!
Again, thanks for the help!
Best wishes,
John
P.S. You've got the cleanest Jeep underside I've ever seen in my life Wingless! Wow!!!!
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#8
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#9
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
A driveshaft shop can probably change those u-joints in 5 minutes with one of their specific presses.
For whatever reason, without a good press or bench-vise setup its a huge PITA to change u-joints
For whatever reason, without a good press or bench-vise setup its a huge PITA to change u-joints
#10
I have used a ball joint press rental tool from the local auto store with great success. I used to use the beat the crap out of it with a BFH until I broke a ujoint bearing cap. Ball joint press has worked on every ujoint on 3 old jeeps without fail.