Ballast Resistor
10-19-2014, 07:28 PM
#31
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10-19-2014, 07:45 PM
#32
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Good news is when ya change your tps, ya still gotta adjust it. Id test it first. Alot of good oem parts get trashed because of people not checking them. Ive been guilty of it myself in the past. Learn from my mistake. Test, clean, test again, then replace
10-19-2014, 10:54 PM
#33
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Skip, we are pretty solid about figuring out what the problem is, THEN spending money on parts, if that's necessary. It's actually a little frustrating when people charge off and buy parts they don't need. It's like trying to tie your shoes with chopsticks. Much more difficult if the poster will not do the recommended tests! Maybe you have a kid, nephew, or neighbor, who is more familiar with a digital meter? The $5 Harbor Freight one actually works, or for $20 plus/minus you can grab one about anywhere.
10-20-2014, 06:01 PM
#34
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Skip, we are pretty solid about figuring out what the problem is, THEN spending money on parts, if that's necessary. It's actually a little frustrating when people charge off and buy parts they don't need. It's like trying to tie your shoes with chopsticks. Much more difficult if the poster will not do the recommended tests! Maybe you have a kid, nephew, or neighbor, who is more familiar with a digital meter? The $5 Harbor Freight one actually works, or for $20 plus/minus you can grab one about anywhere.
10-20-2014, 06:30 PM
#35
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Supper! Random stalling and crapping out hot are high on the list of the CPS tricks. Easy enough to rule that trickster out.
Cruiser had suggested checking it both cold and hot. Guess you could let it warm up on stands. The test literally only takes a minute, just, getting contact on those two little pins while cranking it can be a trick. Baby clips on the meter leads, or having someone help by turning the key helps.
Cruiser had suggested checking it both cold and hot. Guess you could let it warm up on stands. The test literally only takes a minute, just, getting contact on those two little pins while cranking it can be a trick. Baby clips on the meter leads, or having someone help by turning the key helps.
10-20-2014, 07:18 PM
#36
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Please except my apology DFlintstone and the rest of CF members. I sure didn't intend to offend or seem unappreciative to any member or group. I now have a firm understanding of where you guys are coming from and can appreciate your efforts to save whenever possible. The piomeer is now up on jack stands and I have a pretty good inventory of tools. I also have several pieces of testing equipment that includes a digital volt/amp/ohm meter. Just getting lazy in my old age LOL. I will do the tests and update as to the results, then we can go from there. Thanks again to all. Skipp
10-24-2014, 05:10 PM
#37
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Supper! Random stalling and crapping out hot are high on the list of the CPS tricks. Easy enough to rule that trickster out.
Cruiser had suggested checking it both cold and hot. Guess you could let it warm up on stands. The test literally only takes a minute, just, getting contact on those two little pins while cranking it can be a trick. Baby clips on the meter leads, or having someone help by turning the key helps.
Cruiser had suggested checking it both cold and hot. Guess you could let it warm up on stands. The test literally only takes a minute, just, getting contact on those two little pins while cranking it can be a trick. Baby clips on the meter leads, or having someone help by turning the key helps.
Good afternoon gentlemen. Took a few days but finally got a chance to work on the Pioneer. took the C 101 connector apart, that thing was a mess and looks like someone was in it before. Cleaned it thoroughly and put it back together then unplugged the CPS and ran the test there. Soon as the key is turned on it reads .75 on one pin and .75 on the other but while cranking the motor, the outside pin (purple/white wire) will read .8 the other one stays at .75 does this indicate anything? Let it get to operating temp and no change on the readings except the one that read .8 stays at .75 when hot. but it started stumbling and running like crap once again. Just noticed I lost my dash gauge that reads battery. Probably in that big connector I cleaned.
Checked the grounds at the base of the dipstick and cleaned it up a bit but looks good there.
10-24-2014, 05:34 PM
#38
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Hi Skip. The unplugged CPS has two wires. You make contact with both at once, with the two meter leads. >>>>>
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. You need contact with those little pins while it cranks, maybe get someone to help.
#1 Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
#2 Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2 Volt, or “auto range”.
#3 Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 ( is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. You need contact with those little pins while it cranks, maybe get someone to help.
#1 Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
#2 Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2 Volt, or “auto range”.
#3 Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 ( is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
10-24-2014, 06:45 PM
#39
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Hi Skip. The unplugged CPS has two wires. You make contact with both at once, with the two meter leads. >>>>>
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. You need contact with those little pins while it cranks, maybe get someone to help.
#1 Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
#2 Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2 Volt, or “auto range”.
#3 Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 ( is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps. You need contact with those little pins while it cranks, maybe get someone to help.
#1 Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps. (it's a three wire plug, with only two wires)
#2 Probe the two wires to the cps with the digital meter set on AC volts, a 200 scale on mine. Yours meter may have a lower 2 Volt, or “auto range”.
#3 Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low). .35 ( is minimum. .4 to .8 is more like it.
10-24-2014, 06:45 PM
#40
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Ok, so when you get old you don't always get smarter LOL. Obviously you saw that I was testing the wrong side of the plug. Did it right this tim and it reads .3 both cold and hot, but again, soon as it hits operating temp it starts stumbling
.
.
10-24-2014, 07:12 PM
#42
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I'll leave it to you and Cruiser st sort out details. Yes, mine started fouling up right there at .3. Glad we are on the page now. Now don't loose this>>>
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
10-24-2014, 08:28 PM
#43
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I'll leave it to you and Cruiser st sort out details. Yes, mine started fouling up right there at .3. Glad we are on the page now. Now don't loose this>>>
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
If your small enough you just might be able to squeeze your hand and a 1/4 ratchet wrench up in there.
I did but I had to lower the crossmember about 2".
Don't do what I did and drop the socket into the bell housing!!!!
There is a vent cover? Or something that you can drop the bolts or socket down there right next to the cps.
By the way, please don't buy one from AutoZone or orielys, you will be kicking yourself when it craps out in 2 weeks.
Napa or the dealer for a cps
10-24-2014, 08:37 PM
#44
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10-24-2014, 11:39 PM
#45
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I'll leave it to you and Cruiser st sort out details. Yes, mine started fouling up right there at .3. Glad we are on the page now. Now don't loose this>>>
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
To change your CPS I found if you BACK the fronts onto ramps, you won't have them in the way, where you need to lay. A stand under the left front frame would be in your way.
If CPS itself is putting out less than .35 Volts AC, unplugged, while it's cranking with a good battery, or the resistance is not 200 ohm's plus/minus 75, hot;
11mm socket > 3 inch extension > universal > long (18-24 inches of extension). Your feet are sticking out under the passenger side, you can reach up past the front drive-line with your left hand to hold the CPS from the front. Your right hand is on the ratchet way back by the tranny cross member. If you tie a long string on the old plug, you can use that to haul up the new. Toss that piece of plastic if it's still there, and do not drop the bolts in there! Echlin # CSS980, (from Napa, for 87-90), should be fine, but some prefer to go to Jeep. I wouldn't bother with anything else for that.
If your left forearm is bigger than a quart Mason jar, you might consider removing the front drive-line. Also You might cut your old CPS wires if they go through a deal on a bell housing bolt, then be sure your new are held somewhere safe.
The second one is REALLY easy!
ok DFlintstone, Haven't heard anything from Cruiser but will wait to see what he thinks. Yeah, I've been under it and that will be a toughie, I can see it and that's about it but I'll get it. Buy the replacement from NAPA or jeep only? not a problem as I have a NAPA store/warehouse just a couple of miles from me. I've copied the info you provided for me and saved it. Can't thank you enough for the help. would really be great if that's the cure. have a great evening.