anothadayridin

Smoking under acceleration. All the time rings or valves I know its burning oil n needs lower bearings have no loss in power unless. It idles for awhile. Then its sluggish. For a quick period

5-90

Maybe merely valve guide seals, or it could be the oil control ring losing tension (and therefore seal.)

Valve guide seals will tend to be more prominent on startup, and the smoking should decrease a bit as the engine runs (the oil heats up and soaks into the seals, which softens them. This usually slows down or stops the leak.)

A failed/failing oil control ring is usually consistent, no matter how much the engine is run.

As far as the valve guides proper? Wear there won't cause an oil leak, but it may cause the valve to be "mis-seated" on the valve seat, which will cause a loss of power, not an oil leak. At least, not right away - but as the valve is allowed to wobble, it can usually weaken the garter spring that holds the sealing lip against the valve stem.

The best way I can think of to check this without tearing anything to bits is to go get a can of a good seal conditioner (not some "snake oil" brand, but one that's been around for a while - Marvel Mystery Oil has limited seal-conditioning properties as well, I've been using it for about 30 years...) and dump it in. Over the next couple of days, if the smoking decreases markedly, then plan a valve guide seal job.

If it does not, plan a re-ring (since you'll have the head off do to that job, may as well do valve guide seals anyhow then.)

So, you could either end up doing the upper job (valve guide seals) or both jobs (re-ring and valve guide seals.)

However, you can do valve guide seals without pulling the head - run the piston down to BDC, feed in 1/4" soft rope through the spark plug hole until the cylinder is full, gently run the piston up. Change the seals, run the piston back down, and pull out the rope. Repeat 6x.

(Yes, you will be moving the piston up and down by turning the crankshaft with a wrench! Even after making that point painfully clear, I still had someone - years ago - decide to "bump" the piston up using the starter. He had the nerve to get mad at me for his engine breaking - I think the #1 rod snapped - and I pointed to him in the written instructions I'd given him that he'd be using a wrench, and what size wrench was needed! So, I always make the point of using a wrench clear, and I hope no-one else gets it wrong...)

cruiser54

Here we go again...............

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/smo...-miles-153947/

diskman

I wanna play too!




YOUR ENGINE IS SHOT.

Replace it with a 4.0 from a 1988 - 1990 Jeep Cherokee.


Think that will answer his questions? Doubt it..

He ran a 4 page thread asking the same questions. LOL

pmichel

If it's only valve guides it will smoke at idle but run clean at speed. Blue smoke at speed is usually rings. White smoke at any speed is usually coolant.

Valve guides can be replaced by themselves without removing the head.

cruiser54

Valve stem SEALS can be replaced without removing the head. Valve guides cannot.

anothadayridin

Ain't Noone asking for your input

If u don't. Like it bann me or find another persons pīnkstar to. Smell. J/s

anothadayridin

Yep I did replaced lower bearings. Sounds fine now to the smoking so stsu

cruiser54

Actually, any 4.0 from 87 to 99 can be used and I've already posted the instructions in one of the other mile-long threads but was told it's too much trouble to do.

belvedere

LOL at that Askhole thing!

5-90

Correct. In fact, you have to machine the head if the valve guides are worn - since the guides on the 6-242 head are integral. Gotta bore the head out to accept press-in bronze guides...

belvedere

Is this an OEM blower or aftermarket (Paxton, etc)? Actually, with new bearings, the blower may now be putting out more boost, which could further stress an already-worn engine.

F1Addict

There are few if any more knowledgeable on Renix Jeeps than Cruiser and while there are some guru's here, no one (<<TWO words) takes the time to help folks out like he does so for you to disregard his input is just one more indication of what a troll you are. Just sayin'. Go ahead, Sunshine, call me a ****tard again, I obviously don't care.

cruiser54

Thanks for clarifying that, belvedere. I mistakenly assumed he was working on his heater blower now.

Willys55

in many cases you can just knurl them and be back up and running