NCJeepers

About a week ago I had some suspension work done at a place I know and trust. They also did a full inspection and did not find any issues. Today I take it to another place for a much needed alignment, and they say the two front u-joints are in bad shape, rusted, and that I should notice it when I drive. Well, it drives smoothly as far as I can tell, in both 4x2 and 4x4. And visually, it looks OK to me. Just dirty. They quoted me $400 to replace them with greasable ones (the current u-joints have no zerk grease points).

What are the symptoms of bad u-joints?

ehall

They are probably talking about the u-joints on the axle, behind the hubs

NCJeepers

Good point. I checked there as well, and looks good. No rust or anything.

caged

they will usually clack when in 4wd while in motion (slight gas) with wheel turned even slightly off center.

but for 400 bux, you could just buy 2 new ones for about 25 bux each (non greasable) and do them yourself in an hour or two.

i don't use the greasable ones, i find the non zerk type to be stronger and besides, they don't last long enough to worry about greasing them up constantly. i just grease them up when i install them.

oh yeah, a drive shaft joint will vibrate while driving at speed.

4WD4EVER

NCJeepers, there's a great search function that will pull up post after post on the symptoms of worn out u-joints of shafts and/or axles and the procedures for checking them.

Visuals can often times be unreliable, as are some other sensory perceptions, and may not truly be indicative of the actual condition of the component(s), so I would strongly encourage you to follow through and physically check them correctly. When I replaced my front axle u-joints I had no symptoms whatsoever. Yet when I removed the hubs to replace them and the bearings and the u-joints, the caps fell right off the u-joints and all the bearings fell also. Thankfully I already had all the parts as I was preparing to do it all at once.

Also, $400.00 sounds a little high. If you're not going to perform the repairs yourself you may want to consider a 2nd opinion from another reputable shop.

Good luck!

BlueRidgeMark

What he said. They are bad looong before they look bad to a visual inspection.

NCJeepers

I'd do the work myself, but even the Haynes manual recommends having a shop do this procedure, as tools are needed that many don't have, such as a press to get the old u-joints out. I enjoy turning a wrench on the weekends, but I may bring it back the the shop I know well. They gave it a clean bill of health last week, so bringing it back to them may be overkill.

I took it for another trip to the beach today. The tire noise is still there when on asphault. I believe it is tire against asphault noise, as when I drive on the sand, the Cherokee is smooth and quiet as can be, with only the slight squishing whine sound of the sand against the tires.

toasterknight

You can rent a ball joint press and do them with that. It makes it quite an easy job to do. Done many myself.

BlueRidgeMark

Experienced Jeepers recommend ignoring Haynes & Chilton. They are garbage.


Just did my van with common tools like box end wrenches and a big hammer. No problem.

NCJeepers

Thanks for the replies. First thing I did when I got home after the alignment was check to see if I could find the "rust coming out of the u-joint" like he said. There was no rust. And he said that he couldn't believe I didn't feel it when I drive. It is smooth as silk, when driving fast, slow, accelerating, braking, parking in a tight spot, etc etc. And especially when in 4x4 on the beach, steering hard left and right to jump from one set of deep tire tracks to another. I think that guy was full of #@&%! and wanted me to hand him $400. I will find the proper way to check the joints and will then know for sure!

ehall

You can grab the inner shaft with your hand and try to shake it, see if there is any play at the joint

NCJeepers

That's what I was planning to do, grab the shaft near each u joint and see if there is any play. I just found a YouTube video from BleepinJeep that shows how to check the u-joints, and three different methods for replacing them. My project for tomorrow....

93XJeeper

u joints are pretty easy to change. I changed both my front axle ujoints in less then 2 hours with some simple handtools, a vice, and a hammer. And I'm only 17. That guy must of been pretty crazy to charge you $400 bucks to change a ujoint. Once you do it once, it'll be a breeze anytime you got to replace another in the future.

NCJeepers

He wanted $100 for two u-joints, just the parts. They are actually between $12-$15 each from Advance Auto for good ones. Then he said it is a three hour job. Two more reasons he is probably full of it. I will know for sure tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for the advice. It is appreciated.

NCJeepers

So, first thing this a.m. I re-viewed the video from bleepinjeep that showed how to check driveline u-joints. Then went outside and reproduced the check on my Cherokee. All is good and solid. The rubber on each u-joint is intact and everything. Both front and rear drive shafts. Which makes sense since I JUST HAD THEM CHECKED and they were OK, and it drives smoothly at all speeds and turning radius'.

Thanks guys for your help. If one does really go out in the future, I am now prepared!

Now, should I go back and tell that guy he is full of $%&#@ ???