JeepCoMJ

the pivot assembly and shifter handle are the only things that are the same between auto and manual. the body side bracket is different, but can be modified. both of the actual linkages between the shifter handle and pivot, and pivot and tcase, are different lengths. the trans side bracket is also different.


None of the wiring is compatible. doing a 5 speed swap right requires swapping the entire engine bay wiring harness. Of course you can splice wires out and in as well, but you will need the 5 speed ecu or it will destroy the gas mileage as that ecu is unable to get appropriate response from the TCU to use the TPS inputs correctly.

will.scott4x4

So do I need to find an ax15 tranny that is already a 4wd or is that easily convertible?

JeepCoMJ

to convert it, you need a press, and a junk 4wd trans.

the output shaft is different, tail housing is different. This is a situation where if you had to ask the question, you likely don't have the ability to do the job.

so find a 4x4 trans. you won't be capable of converting a 2wd one to 4wd.

will.scott4x4

Sounds about right haha thanx

will.scott4x4

So I have a couple threads of my own on the subject and it was brought to my attention that the drive shaft may be a concern. What do y'all think? Would I need a new drive shaft?

jomps

Yes you need to find a pair that came from a xj with ax15

JeepCoMJ

Driveshafts are both different. The donor will also need the same rear axle as yours, as the 8.25 and Dana 44 have different length than Dana 35

TheJerm

just to build on this info; i was able to cut up the aw4 tcase bracket for the trans side with a stack of washers taped together to be able to reuse the body bracket from AW4 tcase shifter . For the auto wiring harness issue, just put the NSS in the neutral position and the CPU wont know the difference, cant comment on the gas mileage because it was a trail toy and not mine. Yes DS are different because the AX15 is 2-3 inches shorter than the aw4, crossmember is different with an adapter plate and stock hydraulic system is stupid at $200 but made of plastic with no bleeder.

I dont know how but i can here to find out if the crank needs to drilled out for a pilot bushing, putting a 96 auto 4.0 XJ in a 4 cly YJ with 94 XJ AX15. Anything is possible with the right tools and all the parts in one place lol

karl4x4

I did same swap from a wrangler 6 speed on 1998. Not as easy as I thought but it works. My engine was doing the same thing. I assumed it was because the O2 sensor was sensing only 3 cylinders (from 1988 headers) so I disconnected the o2 sensor until i can put it lower past the Y so it can sense all 6 cylinders. It stopped the bucking (ECU on limp mode). Is changing the ECU to a manual one the only thing you did to fix the near stalling issue?

got it for the transmission codes: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/au...0-swap-168961/

The bucking issue was caused by a defective O2 sensor. I installed a wideband 02 sensor down pipe and noticed that when it was bucking, it was running extremely lean. I then used my wideband sensor's analogue output to control the PCM and everything went back to normal.

jmattsen

so i am looking to buy a cherokee in the next month or so but i dont think i have found a single 4L 4x4 5speed. it looks like i am going to have to buy an auto and eventually swap it which isnt a big deal since i planned on pulling the engine and stroking it out anyways. is there any year i should really avoid when picking the car? and i should have no problem keeping my 4x4 should i?

karl4x4

The only years I would avoid is anything 87 and older. Its just your own preference as to what year you prefer. on the 97 and up, the fuel pressure is higher and controlled in the tank. The PCM is very god at regulating the proper pressure for a stroked engine with almost any size injectors.
the thing to watch for, is when getting the flywheel, you need the same year flywheel as the PCM controlling the engine.

roperp

I am the lucky winner of a recently purchased 1996 XJ (VIN code 1J4FJ28S9TL128114) which was originally a full time 4wd auto but is now a manual transmission. I'm attempting to decipher how thorough the conversion was and what, if anything, remains to be done.

Chief symptoms of trouble in paradise:
1: check engine light is always on with the error already described in the previous posts here, suggesting incorrect ECU (original) still installed.

2: fuel economy is abysmal, wonder if its linked to the wrong ECU issue mentioned above.

3. Display console (term.?) is the original, with no tach.

I would sincerely like to improve fuel economy. I would also like to clear the check engine light so I can retrieve on-time diagnostics.

Any guidance so far?

I'm assuming I'll need at least:
1. Correct ECU if it exists.
2. Manual locking hubs.
3. What else?

jackyl

The correct manual ECU is going to solve 99% of your problems. Finding one however, is going to be your biggest challenge. and IF you do find one, will you be able to stomach the price they want for it ?

Once Jeep moved over to OBDII all the fun went out the window.

I know for a fact that with ODBI you could run the auto ECU with a manual in place. With OBDII, you really have no other choice but to get the correct ECU.

Other than that. You do STILL have 3 options that I can think of.

1) Run a Megasquirt (do it like a MAN!)
2) Rip out the ODBII BS and Swap in a full cabin + engine bay ODBI harness
3) Study the schematics and figure out what the ecu is monitoring for trans connections, probe, document and then determine what and why and the reverse-engineer it so that it works as you want it to.

I'd say that buying a new Jeep with a 6spd is an option. But, considering they no longer come with the 4.0 engines I'd say this; Find a clean ODBI cherokee, then pick up a used or new NV 6spd and do the swap. JP magazine did a write up on a few years back (I think it is on their website).

Either way, it is a nightmare. Better off just buying a frame YJ frame, hot dip galvanizing it and then POR15 it and start with a solid base. And ONLY run ODBI or better yet just go with a Clifford 4bbl intake and electric fuel pump and rock a carb on that bad boy.

I'm sorry to say, but XJ's are dead. Jeep doesn't make Jeep anymore. And the V-6 is a joke compared to the 4.0 engines.

but, good luck in whatever avenue you choose to go down. As long as you still have a 4.0 powered Jeep you are all good

lualchro

I did convert my wife's 00 from auto to manual using a 92 AX15
I got also the CEL on all the time, but the three codes (do not remember which ones right now) being thrown by the ECU are related to the automatic tranny solenoids (that are no longer present)
Fuel economy on this Jeep is normal and it is a lot more fun to drive now

I will say for your case that the first thing you need to do is to look at the Codes from the ECU, you could have also a bad O2 sensor, CPS or who knows what that may be causing your Jeep to have poor gas mileage.

I got a cheap code reader (not sure if this will work on yours as well) a small thing that has bluetooth and can be used with an Android device, to look at codes, erase them and also look at real time info, I have erased this codes and they come back (as the ecu wants to see the solenoids) so pretty much I just look at the codes once in a while to make sure I do not have any extra ones

for question three, the term if I'm not mistaken is Gauge Cluster, and it can be swapped for a real one with Tach, easy job, but you will need to get a hold of one, not sure about the oil and temp senders, if they are the correct ones already (depending on the year the correct ones are already in place for real gauges)

jackyl

If you are going to swap over to gauge cluster with a oil gauge and temp gauge there are different sensors for w/gauge.

So you'll need to get those.

If you live in a state where you do not have to pass emissions then you can do the auto>manual swap without issues. But, if you have to pass emissions, they WILL hook up a scan tool and check for codes. If the CEL is on, it is an instant fail (at least for my state).