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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
The plastic plug that goes to the oil pressure sensor on my 96 xj 4.0 is damaged, but I can't find a replacement part anywhere. Some sources have a part they call a connector for the "oil pressure switch," but it can't be the right thing because it has 2 wires, and mine has only one. Any ideas?
The plastic plug that goes to the oil pressure sensor on my 96 xj 4.0 is damaged, but I can't find a replacement part anywhere. Some sources have a part they call a connector for the "oil pressure switch," but it can't be the right thing because it has 2 wires, and mine has only one. Any ideas?
Yours has only 1 wire because you have an oil pressure "light" rather than an oil pressure "gauge"... so you have an oil pressure "switch" - which is a 1-wire connector versus an oil pressure "sender" which is a 2-wire connector.
You can use the 2-wire connector, just pull the excess wire out or cut it flush. It won't hurt anything.
Well we're in Missouri, we're thinking about truck bed liner on the inside just so it's not bare metal.
Yeah, a lot of people do it.
Recommended by several are Monstaliner, Rapter liner, Line-x, Rhino liner, and Lizard Skin (heat resistant and/or sound deadener depending on which one(s) you apply).
Which Valves are Open at TDC of Ignition Stroke of #1 Cylinder
Got cam and crank and distributor all wacky off. I thought lining up the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets with #1 at TDC and the rotor in the distributor pointing at the number one plug wire would be enough, but I should've checked the valves when I lined up the cam. I would think the #1 intake valve should at least be open - right?
Got cam and crank and distributor all wacky off. I thought lining up the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets with #1 at TDC and the rotor in the distributor pointing at the number one plug wire would be enough, but I should've checked the valves when I lined up the cam. I would think the #1 intake valve should at least be open - right?
Nope, they should both be closed. You're 180 degrees off. Rotate the crank 1 full turn and they should both be closed.
Yours has only 1 wire because you have an oil pressure "light" rather than an oil pressure "gauge"... so you have an oil pressure "switch" - which is a 1-wire connector versus an oil pressure "sender" which is a 2-wire connector.
You can use the 2-wire connector, just pull the excess wire out or cut it flush. It won't hurt anything.
Thanks! Can you tell me which wire I cut and which I keep? And it's really not a gauge? It's a gauge in the dash and it goes up and down with acceleration....
Nope, they should both be closed. You're 180 degrees off. Rotate the crank 1 full turn and they should both be closed.
That's TDC.
Well, actually, if I remember right, cylinders 4 & 5 had valves open when I buttoned the whole thing up & cylinder 1 was closed because, that's what I read somewhere was supposed to be the case. Then the damn thing wouldn't start and I'm trying to figure out why.
Nope, they should both be closed. You're 180 degrees off. Rotate the crank 1 full turn and they should both be closed.
That's TDC.
Well, actually, if I remember right, cylinders 4 & 5 had valves open when I buttoned the whole thing up & cylinder 1 was closed because, that's what I read somewhere was supposed to be the case. Then the damn thing wouldn't start and I'm trying to figure out why.
Well, actually, if I remember right, cylinders 4 & 5 had valves open when I buttoned the whole thing up & cylinder 1 was closed because, that's what I read somewhere was supposed to be the case. Then the damn thing wouldn't start and I'm trying to figure out why.
If you think about it for a second, TDC on cyl. 1 is when the spark plug fires. Both valves have to be closed for you to get the benefit of the combustion.
Thanks! Can you tell me which wire I cut and which I keep? And it's really not a gauge? It's a gauge in the dash and it goes up and down with acceleration....
If it's a gauge, you should have 2 wires. Not really sure why you don't. Try tracing the harness back to where it plugs in at on the engine harness and see if there's two wires or one.
If it's a gauge, you should have 2 wires. Not really sure why you don't. Try tracing the harness back to where it plugs in at on the engine harness and see if there's two wires or one.
Just one wire... and until recently, it behaved like a gauge... came up to about 60 at startup, dropped to about 40 at idle, surged on acceleration. Lately it's been sitting high, close to 80 on acceleration, and more important, lately it hasn't been dropping to zero on shutoff, but instead staying above 40, all of which adds up to a bad sensor, at least according to the folks on this forum. So I'm replacing the sensor anyway, but thought I should fix the connector while I was at it.... maybe I'll just do the sensor and if everything works okay I'll just tape up the connector. But anyway... one wire.
Just one wire... and until recently, it behaved like a gauge... came up to about 60 at startup, dropped to about 40 at idle, surged on acceleration. Lately it's been sitting high, close to 80 on acceleration, and more important, lately it hasn't been dropping to zero on shutoff, but instead staying above 40, all of which adds up to a bad sensor, at least according to the folks on this forum. So I'm replacing the sensor anyway, but thought I should fix the connector while I was at it.... maybe I'll just do the sensor and if everything works okay I'll just tape up the connector. But anyway... one wire.
Worse comes to worst man, just get the 2-wire harness and clip off whichever wire the sender itself doesn't use.
09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
Connector for oil pressure sensor
