salvagedstitch

Just realized i posted this in the wrong thread. I have a zj. I also meant orielly's But anyhow. Thanks for all that help.

David Skowronski

Well will they

Martlor13

Not by a long shot

Basslicks

Wait, was it the steering gearbox or the power steering pump. 'Cause first you said gearbox, then you said pump.

How did you bleed the system? Wheels off the ground, motor off, cap off, turning steering wheel from lock to lock a few cycles?

What's the level look like now?

I mean... you can put them on the rim, sure.. but it's A) going to be extremely hard to mount them on that narrow of a wheel and B) whether it fits on your wheel or not, you're not going to be able to turn your wheels without about a 4" wheel spacer on them.... which is DEFINITELY NOT recommended.

Just get some cheapy steel wagon wheels, man.

nardey11

I was just wiring a cb to my battery and decided instead of using a ring terminal I would take the clamps that go on the battery terminals apart and put the cb wires straight to that. After I put them back on and go to start my jeep it wont start. Gauge lights come on and then when i turn the key the starter clicks and everything goes dead. It won't start until I take the positive terminal off and put it back on, and this only happens after sitting for a while. If i try and start it after a few hours it fires right up but if its overnight i get the click and everything goes dead. I really hope I didn't short anything out. Can someone tell me whats going on and what I should look for?

default

OK, banging my head on a wall here.

Pertinent info:

"96 Jeep SE, as base as a jeep can be and still function and bone stock. 2dr, 4cyl, 2wd etc.

All fuses fine/perfect/just replaced a few days ago.

Since I got the thing, the AC blows only when it wants to. When it blows, all controls work fine and I have all speeds and temps. Blows nice and hot or icy cold. And when it doesnt blow, I still have fine temp control.

So today, I got in the jeep and out of the blue decided to try the AC, and it fired right up no problems. I tested everything I could and all worked. The truck had been sitting for about 40 minutes prior and I hadnt tried the AC at all before this.

Turned jeep off to go pee, got right back in it and now AC wont blow. F*&K.

Got dinner, put AC on vent in hopes it would just let warm air into cabin, a mile or so later it kicks on seemingly after a big bump in the road. Worked fine until I got home a shut it off (didnt bother trying to check it again) and actually had to turn the temp down it was so nice and toasty inside.

There is a noticeable loss of power when I turn the AC on, moreso when the AC isnt actually blowing

There is a nice crunch noise coming from the compressor pulley when a friend stethoscoped the engine


tl;dr:

*AC blows when it wants
*Temps work when not blowing (what air comes out corresponds to temp gauge)
*All fuses perfect, blower reg brand new
*Seemed to start blowing after a bump
*Compressor pulley is crunchy
*Loss of power when AC is on and not blowing, but less power loss when AC is on and blowing.




Semi-related: What does the "HEAT" setting do? Seems all it does is put heat to the floor vents, is this correct? I kinda prefer it coming out of the dash which is exactly what happens with it on any other setting and in the red.

salad

Can't comment on the "HEAT" thing (I do '97+) but it sounds like you've got a loose ground or other connector. If I were you I'd be looking at the wiring on the back of the actual control panel, the blower motor connector, and the blower motor resistor pack.

I think the '96 HVAC is the same wiring as earlier years since the dash is the same. There's a '95 FSM here that you can download, it should help you diagnose and give some wiring diagrams (I think.. I haven't been through all of them in that much detail) http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

default

thanks salad. I have yet to get to the back of the controls (my torx bits arent long enough to take steering shroud off) and i cant for the life of me find the blower plug. i know the resistor is snug on, but ill double check tomorrow since i know where that is

1991Jeep_Man

What is holding the MAXI Fuse terminals in place in the fuse box / PDC? I managed to unclip the mini fuses and relay terminals without issue by depressing the little black tabs at each. I see a little tab at the MAXI terminals, but damn if I can get them out!

default

one quick thing: the only reason I doubt its something loose is due to the fact the ac will stop working once i shut the car off. in other words, if its working in a parking lot not moving, I turn the jeep off and back on and now its not working...

gilbedw

Anyone know the part number or availability of the bezel that holds the shift boot on to the console of a 97- 01 XJ manual shift? My parts list doesn’t seem to show it.
Thanks

Basslicks

When you say "loss of power" do you mean "motor power" like less "umph" or electrical power?

If it's electrical power, that sounds like the motor is going bad. What's happening there is, the motor gets to a "dead" spot and stays there... power is going to the motor and it's trying to turn, but it's working harder than it normally does to get it out of that dead spot.

BTW, the "HEAT" setting on the control panel is the norm in most old-school setups. Hot air rises, so when you turn the setting to "HEAT", the diverter shunts the vents to the floor so that it will warm your feet, and then rise and warm the rest of the inside. You can use the heat setting with your temperature blender at any setting, but the compressor will only kick on with MAX A/C, NORM, Bi-Level, and WINDSHIELD Defroster. Conversly, you can set your blend door to HEAT and put it on any of those settings and it will blow hot air.

To sum THAT up, think of the temperature control as your blend door, and the controls above it as your diverter.... heat just means floor.

This is the most likely possibility... although it doesn't explain the "power loss" thing described.

Ever see an arc jump and hold the arc until the power is disconnected? In a loose connection like what Salad is describing, once the connection is established enough to get things working, it generates an electromagnetic field around it that is just enough to KEEP things going until the power is disconnected -OR- you hit a bump that jars things too far apart for the EMF to remain intact. Now, once you shut everything off, the power is disconnected, and whatever position the loose connection is in will determine whether there's enough of a connection to make things work.

Clear as mud?

Either way, start with your electrical connections. Make sure all your grounds are good and your hots AND grounds are tight. If it's still doing it after that, I'd look at the resistor and then the fan. That lack of power thing has me a little mystified though.

No trick, just gotta pull harder on them... maybe wiggle them a little long-ways. They'll come up, just takes more effort. Remember, the tighter the connection, the better the flow of current... and they've been in there for a LONG time in a tight slot.

1991Jeep_Man

For the terminals? Not the fuses. I have the fuses out. I am trying to remove the actual terminal the fuse goes into. I am modifying a PDC for my accessories, so I will have two of them. I got the relay terminals out and the mini fuses ones out. I just cannot get the MAXI ones out.

Rambler65

So I'm driving along in my '99 XJ and all of a sudden some of the gauges start going nuts. Most noticeable is that at low speeds the speedometer goes crazy, driving in a parking lot it swings wildly between zero and full scale. Once at road speed (say about 40 mph) it settles down but is still shaky.

This is a full gauge cluster - after a little while the "check gauges" light comes on, and the voltmeter is showing zero volts! Obviously this is a crock because the Jeep wouldn't be running, but something is clearly wrong. So I turn off all non-essential electrical equipment and get home. The other gauges seem to function normally. Trans feels a little funny taking off from a stop while the speedometer goes nuts, delayed engagement and shifting until up to speed.

Just measured voltage at the battery. It's 12.4 V with everything turned off and just 12V with the engine running. So it seems that alternator is probably shot and the electronics might be not liking the low voltage. The alternator underneath the A/C compressor, so probably easiest to remove it from the bottom? (Should be able to search for R&R instructions here.) Anything else I should check before condemning the alternator, isn't voltage regulation controlled by the engine computer?

NewbJeep

I'm leaning toward a dirty connection behind the cluster. Well known common problem. Chrysler knew it so they sell another connecting adapter for the problem. Pull the gauge cluster, clean the connectors and see whats what. Also, check the C4 connector in the junction box (pass side wall at feet).