09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
09-27-2016, 01:07 AM
CF Veteran
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Location: Southern Oregon
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey folks I'm looking to piece together an OME 3" lift. I'm piecing it together so I don't have to drop $800+ all at once on the kit and possibly get it a little cheaper.
The trouble I'm running into is finding sites that sell pieces, is there a list somewhere, and no I don't mean https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/je...mpanies-76868/ that just lists the companies that provide kits.
I'm talking quadratech, rustys, uh... yeah that's all I've got off the top of my head. If you know such a list please post it up, or if you could name off some more companies (preferably ones dealing specifically with OME) that would be fantastic.
Thank you
The trouble I'm running into is finding sites that sell pieces, is there a list somewhere, and no I don't mean https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/je...mpanies-76868/ that just lists the companies that provide kits.
I'm talking quadratech, rustys, uh... yeah that's all I've got off the top of my head. If you know such a list please post it up, or if you could name off some more companies (preferably ones dealing specifically with OME) that would be fantastic.
Thank you
09-27-2016, 04:27 AM
CF Veteran
09-27-2016, 06:12 AM
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Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Hub bearings doesn't last long anymore. Ball joints are poorly manufactured, the tolerances crapped out lately. Coils sag way too quickly. You get the idea.
Might as well as buy cheaper house brands because the quality is the same and you pay less up front.
09-27-2016, 06:15 AM
Beach Bum
Could also try contacting Dirk at DPG Offroad. Link to vendors; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/
09-27-2016, 07:00 AM
CF Veteran
tie rods & misc bushings are only moog products I ll use. Ball joints, or any other products are inferior now.
Hub bearings doesn't last long anymore. Ball joints are poorly manufactured, the tolerances crapped out lately. Coils sag way too quickly. You get the idea.
Might as well as buy cheaper house brands because the quality is the same and you pay less up front.
Hub bearings doesn't last long anymore. Ball joints are poorly manufactured, the tolerances crapped out lately. Coils sag way too quickly. You get the idea.
Might as well as buy cheaper house brands because the quality is the same and you pay less up front.
09-27-2016, 07:04 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
"Similar" indeed. It's often just a matter of manufacturing tolerances and material quality.
09-27-2016, 08:45 AM
Moderator of Jeeps
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
As I just learned, Spicer ball joints in Amazon are about half the cost of Moog from Advance. It's a win/win.
09-27-2016, 09:30 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rockridge 4WD, Barnes 4WD, Morris 4x4 Could also try contacting Dirk at DPG Offroad. Link to vendors; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/
09-27-2016, 12:07 PM
No, I don't lick fish.
Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.
"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.
4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".
TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
Revised 11/20/2014
"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.
4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".
TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.
Revised 11/20/2014
09-27-2016, 02:08 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Would it be acceptable to have one end of the tie rod mounted UTK and the other end mounted OTK?
I feel like it would be okay as long as the TREs allow for enough misalignment, and the relationship should stay the same during suspension cycling if the tie rod is going knuckle to knuckle. It may wear them out faster, but I'm not seeing a reason why it shouldn't function.
The reasoning is my driver side knuckle on my YJ is already reamed for OTK, but I can't install the tie rod OTK on the new passenger side knuckle because it will hit my leaf spring (sprung over axle). If I can do OTK on the driver side and UTK on the passenger side, I can use my 1-ton linkage. If that shouldn't be done, I have to use stock steering.
I feel like it would be okay as long as the TREs allow for enough misalignment, and the relationship should stay the same during suspension cycling if the tie rod is going knuckle to knuckle. It may wear them out faster, but I'm not seeing a reason why it shouldn't function.
The reasoning is my driver side knuckle on my YJ is already reamed for OTK, but I can't install the tie rod OTK on the new passenger side knuckle because it will hit my leaf spring (sprung over axle). If I can do OTK on the driver side and UTK on the passenger side, I can use my 1-ton linkage. If that shouldn't be done, I have to use stock steering.
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-27-2016 at 03:56 PM.
09-27-2016, 04:24 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Would it be acceptable to have one end of the tie rod mounted UTK and the other end mounted OTK?
I feel like it would be okay as long as the TREs allow for enough misalignment, and the relationship should stay the same during suspension cycling if the tie rod is going knuckle to knuckle. It may wear them out faster, but I'm not seeing a reason why it shouldn't function.
The reasoning is my driver side knuckle on my YJ is already reamed for OTK, but I can't install the tie rod OTK on the new passenger side knuckle because it will hit my leaf spring (sprung over axle). If I can do OTK on the driver side and UTK on the passenger side, I can use my 1-ton linkage. If that shouldn't be done, I have to use stock steering.
I feel like it would be okay as long as the TREs allow for enough misalignment, and the relationship should stay the same during suspension cycling if the tie rod is going knuckle to knuckle. It may wear them out faster, but I'm not seeing a reason why it shouldn't function.
The reasoning is my driver side knuckle on my YJ is already reamed for OTK, but I can't install the tie rod OTK on the new passenger side knuckle because it will hit my leaf spring (sprung over axle). If I can do OTK on the driver side and UTK on the passenger side, I can use my 1-ton linkage. If that shouldn't be done, I have to use stock steering.
And why would the tie rod be in a different position with relation to the spring on one side vs the other? If OTK wouldn't the tie rod hit both springs?
Looks like currently UTK, and plenty of room for OTK to me...
That said, i can't really find a massive fault in your plan...
09-27-2016, 05:03 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Two different D30s with two sets of knuckles 
That's the SOA with crossover factory steering and a UTK tie rod.
The other one has my JCR setup (inverted-T) with OTK tie rod.
So...
Original axle with factory knuckles is reamed for JCR 1-ton OTK steering. It's in the bed of the J10.
The current axle (swapped in for gears, Truetrac, and SOA) has factory knuckles with the JB4x4 hi steer bracket. The stock UTK steering links are just separated from each other to use the bracket.
I ordered the Teraflex knuckle to replace my broken driver side one. It has tapered inserts so I can use stock or 1-ton links.
If I keep the current driver side knuckle, I have to keep the stock linkage (or take the knuckle to be reamed).
If I swap on the driver side knuckle that is already reamed, I can use the 1-ton tapered inserts on the passenger side and the reamed pitman arm that's already on the JCR drag link.
But, the driver knuckle that's already reamed is OTK. If the 1-ton tie rod goes all the way across OTK, it'll interfere with the springs. If I can keep the driver side OTK (the way my old knuckle is reamed), and install the tapered insert UTK on the Teraflex knuckle, there may be enough clearance to run the bar because of the slope.
Clear as mud?
That's the SOA with crossover factory steering and a UTK tie rod.
The other one has my JCR setup (inverted-T) with OTK tie rod.
So...
Original axle with factory knuckles is reamed for JCR 1-ton OTK steering. It's in the bed of the J10.
The current axle (swapped in for gears, Truetrac, and SOA) has factory knuckles with the JB4x4 hi steer bracket. The stock UTK steering links are just separated from each other to use the bracket.
I ordered the Teraflex knuckle to replace my broken driver side one. It has tapered inserts so I can use stock or 1-ton links.
If I keep the current driver side knuckle, I have to keep the stock linkage (or take the knuckle to be reamed).
If I swap on the driver side knuckle that is already reamed, I can use the 1-ton tapered inserts on the passenger side and the reamed pitman arm that's already on the JCR drag link.
But, the driver knuckle that's already reamed is OTK. If the 1-ton tie rod goes all the way across OTK, it'll interfere with the springs. If I can keep the driver side OTK (the way my old knuckle is reamed), and install the tapered insert UTK on the Teraflex knuckle, there may be enough clearance to run the bar because of the slope.
Clear as mud?
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-27-2016 at 05:08 PM.
09-27-2016, 07:03 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Here you go, dukie
Axle A:
Axle B:
I need to install the new Teraflex knuckle in the passenger side of Axle A, which is the axle currently installed under the Jeep.
If I take the driver side knuckle from Axle B, I can use my JCR steering instead of the OEM toothpicks.
But! The thicker tie rod won't fit under the leafs if it's mounted OTK on both sides. And the driver side knuckle on Axle B is already reamed OTK.
So the question is this:
Can I install the tie rod OTK using Axle B's driver side knuckle and UTK on the new Teraflex knuckle?
This would put a slope in the tie rod's connection, and I think it would clear the springs with a full turning radius.
(The drag link is a non-issue. It will be well above the leaf springs, attached to the Teraflex knuckle's high steer arm)
Axle A:
Axle B:
I need to install the new Teraflex knuckle in the passenger side of Axle A, which is the axle currently installed under the Jeep.
If I take the driver side knuckle from Axle B, I can use my JCR steering instead of the OEM toothpicks.
But! The thicker tie rod won't fit under the leafs if it's mounted OTK on both sides. And the driver side knuckle on Axle B is already reamed OTK.
So the question is this:
Can I install the tie rod OTK using Axle B's driver side knuckle and UTK on the new Teraflex knuckle?
This would put a slope in the tie rod's connection, and I think it would clear the springs with a full turning radius.
(The drag link is a non-issue. It will be well above the leaf springs, attached to the Teraflex knuckle's high steer arm)
Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 09-27-2016 at 07:11 PM.
09-27-2016, 07:09 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Though if experience has taught me anything, I'll buy three and still end up buying Moog...