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Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
^ That's a pretty decent explanation.
The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I bought my jeep mainly to get me up to the mountain in the winter. I'm planning on doing an auto locker up front and a Truetrac in the rear. With the added traction of the Truetrac I won't need 4wd unless absolutely really needed.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
I'm working on my sister 93 XJ, her turn signals stopped working. The harzards worked as normal and my dad said the fuses checked out fine. So she bought a turn signal switch and after fighting with the column for an hour it's in.
However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm working on my sister 93 XJ, her turn signals stopped working. The harzards worked as normal and my dad said the fuses checked out fine. So she bought a turn signal switch and after fighting with the column for an hour it's in.
However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
No supposedly her boyfriend checked all the easy stuff but Im skeptical. Do you have a pic/diagram that tells me where this stuff is at? (Sorry, Im an electrical idiot )
Also, can I check it with a multimeter? Or do I need to swap it with a new one?
Also, can I check it with a multimeter? Or do I need to swap it with a new one?
CF Veteran
^ That's a pretty decent explanation.
The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
An auto locker just in front is an interesting thought...Anyone ever played with a real life setup like any of the previously mentioned?
Great info guys thanks!
Edit: Random thought...it'd be interesting if a selectable autolocker existed...lol
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Technically the axles would run at different speeds, but the binding is just moved from within the transfer case to the axles. Understeer is still a massive problem. Different speeds are absolutely required for steer tires if you're on the road.
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This guy explains it ok with the parts although stumbles over himself a few times.
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yes, only if you come off the gas. As soon as torque is applied the entire thing locks up. Only having one side locked is called "open" lol
CF Veteran
But in a turn the outside tire has to travel faster, so that side will rotate forward in relation to the other side allowing the springs to pull the inside gear mechanism in and clicking back one position. That's why the autolockers click while turning. They just do that rapidly.
Sorry to butt in, I have a question. How do you remove the fuel line from the fuel rail/manifold on a 98 4.0 XJ? I removed the clip and pulled as hard as I dared, I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Is there some special procedure? I need to remove the intake manifold to replace a head gasket and motor mount.
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Sorry to butt in, I have a question. How do you remove the fuel line from the fuel rail/manifold on a 98 4.0 XJ? I removed the clip and pulled as hard as I dared, I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Is there some special procedure? I need to remove the intake manifold to replace a head gasket and motor mount.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
But in a turn the outside tire has to travel faster, so that side will rotate forward in relation to the other side allowing the springs to pull the inside gear mechanism in and clicking back one position. That's why the autolockers click while turning. They just do that rapidly.
Yes. You can use a couple of picks and a precision screwdriver in a pinch, but it's not fun... lol
No, I don't lick fish.
I have a 2000 Limited XJ, I put 08 Jeep commander head lights in (was a pain) and wanting to get rid of the oem blinkers by putting led blinkers in but the led blinkers I got have only 2 wires and the oem wires from the xj are 3 wires. Does any one know how to wire this up, with out hyper flash an use them as parking lights? I'm not 100% if someone posted this already. I've looked around and I couldn't find any Info. Thanks
I've also see someone take a very small hose clamp, cut the "clamping" mechanism off, curl it around the hard line and push it up into the clip to remove it. I tried it myself on a couple lines just to see if it'd work. I got one line off, and couldn't get it to work on another.