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Old 06-28-2016, 02:38 PM
  #54916  
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^ That's a pretty decent explanation.

The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:48 PM
  #54917  
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I bought my jeep mainly to get me up to the mountain in the winter. I'm planning on doing an auto locker up front and a Truetrac in the rear. With the added traction of the Truetrac I won't need 4wd unless absolutely really needed.
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:53 PM
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I'm working on my sister 93 XJ, her turn signals stopped working. The harzards worked as normal and my dad said the fuses checked out fine. So she bought a turn signal switch and after fighting with the column for an hour it's in.

However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:54 PM
  #54919  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
I'm working on my sister 93 XJ, her turn signals stopped working. The harzards worked as normal and my dad said the fuses checked out fine. So she bought a turn signal switch and after fighting with the column for an hour it's in.

However, the turn signals still don't work. Again, harzards works, turn signals don't, what could it be?
Did you check the turn signal relay?
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:59 PM
  #54920  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Did you check the turn signal relay?
No supposedly her boyfriend checked all the easy stuff but Im skeptical. Do you have a pic/diagram that tells me where this stuff is at? (Sorry, Im an electrical idiot )

Also, can I check it with a multimeter? Or do I need to swap it with a new one?
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Old 06-28-2016, 03:53 PM
  #54921  
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Originally Posted by salad
^ That's a pretty decent explanation.

The magic of an NP242 lies in the "center differential". An auto locker could, at best, only be used in the rear. Even then there's a slight risk of kicking the rear end out, but with the front open or a limited slip, it will be able to control it much better. Auto front and back would render a 242 useless and pretty dangerous for a novice driver (I assume your wife is not used to driving a completely locked rig...)
Even with autolockers front and rear the 242 would at least let the front axle go faster through the turns than the rear, preventing binding and understeer(I forget which one it is...basically pushing you into the outer snow bank...lol)
An auto locker just in front is an interesting thought...Anyone ever played with a real life setup like any of the previously mentioned?

Great info guys thanks!

Edit: Random thought...it'd be interesting if a selectable autolocker existed...lol
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:03 PM
  #54922  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Even with autolockers front and rear the 242 would at least let the front axle go faster through the turns than the rear, preventing binding and understeer
Technically the axles would run at different speeds, but the binding is just moved from within the transfer case to the axles. Understeer is still a massive problem. Different speeds are absolutely required for steer tires if you're on the road.
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:07 PM
  #54923  
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Originally Posted by salad
Technically the axles would run at different speeds, but the binding is just moved from within the transfer case to the axles. Understeer is still a massive problem. Different speeds are absolutely required for steer tires if you're on the road.
Right but an autolocker(at least with the aussie and lock rite) only the inside slower moving tire is forced to rotate with the drive shafts. The outer faster traveling tire can go faster.

This guy explains it ok with the parts although stumbles over himself a few times.
This graphic shows everything in 3d
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:14 PM
  #54924  
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Yes, only if you come off the gas. As soon as torque is applied the entire thing locks up. Only having one side locked is called "open" lol
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:17 PM
  #54925  
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Originally Posted by salad
Yes, only if you come off the gas. As soon as torque is applied the entire thing locks up. Only having one side locked is called "open" lol
But in a turn the outside tire has to travel faster, so that side will rotate forward in relation to the other side allowing the springs to pull the inside gear mechanism in and clicking back one position. That's why the autolockers click while turning. They just do that rapidly.
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:07 PM
  #54926  
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Sorry to butt in, I have a question. How do you remove the fuel line from the fuel rail/manifold on a 98 4.0 XJ? I removed the clip and pulled as hard as I dared, I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Is there some special procedure? I need to remove the intake manifold to replace a head gasket and motor mount.
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:09 PM
  #54927  
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Originally Posted by armadillo
Sorry to butt in, I have a question. How do you remove the fuel line from the fuel rail/manifold on a 98 4.0 XJ? I removed the clip and pulled as hard as I dared, I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Is there some special procedure? I need to remove the intake manifold to replace a head gasket and motor mount.
you need a fuel disconnect tool. Commonly available at parts houses such as advance auto, etc
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:16 PM
  #54928  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
you need a fuel disconnect tool. Commonly available at parts houses such as advance auto, etc
Thanks for your quick reply!
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:27 PM
  #54929  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
But in a turn the outside tire has to travel faster, so that side will rotate forward in relation to the other side allowing the springs to pull the inside gear mechanism in and clicking back one position. That's why the autolockers click while turning. They just do that rapidly.
Yeah... only when you're NOT applying torque. Otherwise they'd just be open diffs that click.

Originally Posted by XJwonders
you need a fuel disconnect tool. Commonly available at parts houses such as advance auto, etc
Yes. You can use a couple of picks and a precision screwdriver in a pinch, but it's not fun... lol
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:50 PM
  #54930  
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Originally Posted by War_Pony
I have a 2000 Limited XJ, I put 08 Jeep commander head lights in (was a pain) and wanting to get rid of the oem blinkers by putting led blinkers in but the led blinkers I got have only 2 wires and the oem wires from the xj are 3 wires. Does any one know how to wire this up, with out hyper flash an use them as parking lights? I'm not 100% if someone posted this already. I've looked around and I couldn't find any Info. Thanks
The XJ has 3 wires because it is has a parking lamp circuit and a turn signal circuit. So Park/Ciruit/Ground are your 3 wires. The XK (commander) lights are turn signal only. The XK parking lamps are in the bumper. As far as getting them to flash without "hyperflash", you need a flasher with load resistors. I.e. https://www.amazon.com/Novita-EP27-F...eep%3Acherokee

Originally Posted by salad
Yes. You can use a couple of picks and a precision screwdriver in a pinch, but it's not fun... lol
I've also see someone take a very small hose clamp, cut the "clamping" mechanism off, curl it around the hard line and push it up into the clip to remove it. I tried it myself on a couple lines just to see if it'd work. I got one line off, and couldn't get it to work on another.
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