09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
04-27-2016, 10:14 PM
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Trying to track down a clunk/rattle I get when going over bumps. Did ball joints (lowers were shot), hubs (driver's side was going) and front axle u-joints (both dry and due). Have replaced front sway bar bushings. Control arms look OK. Could probably use a tranny mount but exhaust pipe does not appear to be hitting cross member. Can't find anything by grabbing and shaking stuff or jumping on the bumpers
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Was greasing front end and realized the slip joint had not been done since I've had the truck. It took a lot of grease. Thought maybe it could clunk or tap when the suspension flexes and the joint is moving in and out.
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Was greasing front end and realized the slip joint had not been done since I've had the truck. It took a lot of grease. Thought maybe it could clunk or tap when the suspension flexes and the joint is moving in and out.
04-27-2016, 11:34 PM
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Year: 00'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0 w/ 784 swap/ new connector tails
Louder pop from the steering box only when I turn left, doesn't seem to pop as hard while driving but sitting still if I start to turn left whether quick or slow it pops, can feel it down on the steering box when some else moves the steering wheel. Every thing is tight from what i feel and see, nothing looks out of the usual, thanks all
04-28-2016, 07:57 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
FWIW, that's the only really good way to lube the rear cardon joint anyway. So, it's probably dry/worn FUBAR.
04-28-2016, 02:20 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
technically not oem, but i had my mechanic install the v8 tie rod (moog) and he just called me to say there is a small play at the knuckle, and he wanted to be sure if I still wanted it installed or not. basically nothing that can endanger me when driving, but enough that he's concerned.
from what I read, it's a direct bolt on, so I told him to install it anyway and I'd deal with the consequences, but now I'm wondering what could cause this? The tapered hole in the knuckle?
from what I read, it's a direct bolt on, so I told him to install it anyway and I'd deal with the consequences, but now I'm wondering what could cause this? The tapered hole in the knuckle?
04-28-2016, 09:02 PM
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Model: Cherokee
In trying to track down a rattle/clunk I came across some that had a problem with caliper rattle. They make clips that go on the calipers to keep them from moving.
Aside from being annoying it was said that not using them would cause the shoes to wear on the knuckle slides and they would eventually have to be replaced or even cause caliper bolts to break.
I have some wear on the knuckles where the shoes ride and have never seen these clips. Should I use them, do they work, too late?
Also, is having grooves in the slides from wear common? Big problem, small problem?
Aside from being annoying it was said that not using them would cause the shoes to wear on the knuckle slides and they would eventually have to be replaced or even cause caliper bolts to break.
I have some wear on the knuckles where the shoes ride and have never seen these clips. Should I use them, do they work, too late?
Also, is having grooves in the slides from wear common? Big problem, small problem?
04-29-2016, 07:05 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anyone know the pinion angle of the xj dana 44 I have a 44 sitting here and was going to weld perches on it but don't know the angles
04-29-2016, 08:06 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
04-29-2016, 11:07 AM
No, I don't lick fish.
Nope. The heads are different.
04-29-2016, 12:03 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Measure drive line angle.. Then set your pinion angle about 2-3 degrees lower than what the drive line reads at.. The reason is, under torque load the axle will point upwards some.
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 04-29-2016 at 12:05 PM.
04-29-2016, 12:15 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
04-29-2016, 12:22 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
True. I guess I automatically assumed since I've never seen anyone go through the work to swap a non bolt on axle in a stock rig.
If you're using the stock drive shaft then same idea follows but you want to measure the transference output shaft angle and set it 2-3 degrees under that angle.
If you're using the stock drive shaft then same idea follows but you want to measure the transference output shaft angle and set it 2-3 degrees under that angle.
05-01-2016, 05:29 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
After about 6 months of no carpet, I decided to put some back in, but before doing so, I was gonna put some sound deadener down. After reading several threads, it seams that the peal and seal stuff is the cheapest and most effective route to go. What do y'all think? Figured I'd get me last opinion. I was also thinking about using the spongy stuff that came from the factory but I'm not sure what it's called. Which would y'all recommend.
05-01-2016, 08:33 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Glorious 4.0
New shocks??
The rebound time on my rear suspension is painfully slow. Sometimes this causes the whole jeep to rock side to side very violently at highway speeds on bumpy roads. Is this my shocks? i am guessing it is. The jeep also sits a little low in the back so that makes me think its the shocks. If so, what are some good OEM shocks that dont break the bank? Thanks!!