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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Okay I've had this problem for quite some time now and I'm tired of it.
Jeep will run at normal temp finally with a new aluminum radiator. But if I shut it off sometimes I have to wait for it to cool down even more until I can restart it... any ideas???
Jeep will run at normal temp finally with a new aluminum radiator. But if I shut it off sometimes I have to wait for it to cool down even more until I can restart it... any ideas???
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Okay then I must have the dreaded D35.
Are these really that bad, assuming that I'm not doing the lift and huge tire thing and doing hard off-roading?
Mostly the Jeep is going to be used for getting out of and into our rural neighborhood (gravel/dirt roads) in all weathers, and maybe someday a camping trip off the beaten track. I've never yet had any trouble with the 10 bolt Chevy rear end that's supposed to be so weak in half ton pickups/suburbans.
Are these really that bad, assuming that I'm not doing the lift and huge tire thing and doing hard off-roading?
Mostly the Jeep is going to be used for getting out of and into our rural neighborhood (gravel/dirt roads) in all weathers, and maybe someday a camping trip off the beaten track. I've never yet had any trouble with the 10 bolt Chevy rear end that's supposed to be so weak in half ton pickups/suburbans.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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You're having problems with heat soak. There was a recall on this for certain years (check the NHTSA website), and they corrected it with a piece of heat shielding on the intake to insulate the injectors. Hood vents would also help by reducing the temperature under the hood.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay then I must have the dreaded D35. Are these really that bad, assuming that I'm not doing the lift and huge tire thing and doing hard off-roading? Mostly the Jeep is going to be used for getting out of and into our rural neighborhood (gravel/dirt roads) in all weathers, and maybe someday a camping trip off the beaten track. I've never yet had any trouble with the 10 bolt Chevy rear end that's supposed to be so weak in half ton pickups/suburbans.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Should never have that problem since it has the Selec-Trac NP242 with the full time option.
Came with stock size 225/70r15 and I only plan on upgrading to 235/75r15.
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I almost want to say that's the Engine Speed Sensor (better known to us as the CPS) plug. My FSM for '87 shows Violet w/trace and White w/trace wires go to the ESS (CPS).
So... does the Jeep run? And are the wires the colors I think they are?
So... does the Jeep run? And are the wires the colors I think they are?
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Cruiser, you beat me by a minute cause I had to break out the books
Details about this CPS bypass?
Details about this CPS bypass?
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the harness through the hole and to the ECU. Remove the original CPS wires at the ECU and run the patch harness wires into the ECU connector instead.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Interesting. My '88 Comanche definitely didn't have that service performed cause I clearly remember the process of replacing its CPS. That's good to know, though. I was hesitating and kept rechecking my diagrams cause I felt like if I was right, he would've complained of a no-start situation.