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05-04-2010, 07:57 AM
#166
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
No worries Josh. Forgot to put it in there just remeber if you run gas through anything to make sure its off the engine and give it a couple of minutes evaporate before putting back on.
But your welcome! I hope this works out well for you.
But your welcome! I hope this works out well for you.
05-04-2010, 08:34 AM
#167
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Location: Florida
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had a question about fluid for my 2000 Sport. I think I am going to start running Shell Rotella Diesel for my oil. Does anyone have opinions on Transmission/Transfer case/Diff. Anyone ever use Royal Purple? Thanks
05-04-2010, 02:14 PM
#168
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Model: Cherokee
Ok i have a 98 cherokee sport and the transfer case went out i went to pic a part and found one that matched. its a NP242J well once i got the old one off and was goin to put the new one on i noticed that the shaft that comes out of the tranny has 24 teeth well the new one only has 21 teeth on the inlet. how do i go about exchanging the inlets from the old one to the new one. all help is appreciated thanks.
05-05-2010, 02:52 AM
#169
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Ok i have a 98 cherokee sport and the transfer case went out i went to pic a part and found one that matched. its a NP242J well once i got the old one off and was goin to put the new one on i noticed that the shaft that comes out of the tranny has 24 teeth well the new one only has 21 teeth on the inlet. how do i go about exchanging the inlets from the old one to the new one. all help is appreciated thanks.
05-06-2010, 12:55 AM
#171
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Location: Shawnee, KS
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
my cherokee dies right after start!
Sorry if this is in the wrong place! I wasnt sure how to add it! I have a 1990 jeep cherokee with the 4.0 inline 6. It dies right after I start it, just started doing that after I replaced the battery cables. I just replaced the cps because I
read on Eric Giordano's (JabaThaHut) website about sensors that this is a major problem
with hardstart/no start/dying issues and I'd been having no start issues intermittently
over the past year but it would always eventually start. This last time it didnt start for 2
weeks and he suggested unplug/replug and wallah! it started but a few days later i was
having battery issues, checked the cables and replaced like I mentioned above and next
day it died when I drove down the street, over the next hour I tried to get back home
and had to keep my foot on the gas while stopping to limp it home(barely) still died a
few times in under a mile. got it home switched out that darn cps and it now wont run
for more than a few seconds. the haynes book says to check out the intake manifold so
I'm taking that apart now but obviously getting a little frustrated: ).....it has a new
battery, starter, plugs, wires, cap, the module and coil are good. Eric also suggested
switching out the EGR Solenoid(O'reilly's calls it a Resistor) and its cheap so I did that.
sorry for being so long winded just wanted to make sure to give as much info as
possible! (I'd really rather not switch out the fuel pump if I can help it! thats the last
read on Eric Giordano's (JabaThaHut) website about sensors that this is a major problem
with hardstart/no start/dying issues and I'd been having no start issues intermittently
over the past year but it would always eventually start. This last time it didnt start for 2
weeks and he suggested unplug/replug and wallah! it started but a few days later i was
having battery issues, checked the cables and replaced like I mentioned above and next
day it died when I drove down the street, over the next hour I tried to get back home
and had to keep my foot on the gas while stopping to limp it home(barely) still died a
few times in under a mile. got it home switched out that darn cps and it now wont run
for more than a few seconds. the haynes book says to check out the intake manifold so
I'm taking that apart now but obviously getting a little frustrated: ).....it has a new
battery, starter, plugs, wires, cap, the module and coil are good. Eric also suggested
switching out the EGR Solenoid(O'reilly's calls it a Resistor) and its cheap so I did that.
sorry for being so long winded just wanted to make sure to give as much info as
possible! (I'd really rather not switch out the fuel pump if I can help it! thats the last
thing on my list so far but I just dont think thats the prob....Thanks a ton for listening!
Last edited by jat2036; 05-06-2010 at 12:57 AM.
05-06-2010, 01:03 AM
#172
CF Veteran
I would bypass the ballast resistor, and switch the power latch relay with a known good one.
Ballast resistor is on the drivers side fender under the hood, two wires with female spade plugs plug into it. Bypass it with a chunk of wire with male spade terminals on it.
Switch the power latch relay, located on the passengers side in the relay block with a known good one. See if that gets you anywhere.
Ballast resistor is on the drivers side fender under the hood, two wires with female spade plugs plug into it. Bypass it with a chunk of wire with male spade terminals on it.
Switch the power latch relay, located on the passengers side in the relay block with a known good one. See if that gets you anywhere.
Last edited by 89Laredo; 05-06-2010 at 01:29 AM.
05-06-2010, 01:58 AM
#173
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
bypass the ballast. and if it doesn't work jumper the FP relay to check if the pump is good.
Last edited by fantic238; 05-06-2010 at 02:01 AM.
05-06-2010, 10:05 AM
#174
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Location: Bloomington, MN
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Nevermind: Found more questions than answers by searching the threads more in depth...
Last edited by Anthonyb; 05-06-2010 at 11:00 AM.
05-06-2010, 05:38 PM
#175
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Need help removing the Tie Rods, I have removed the saftey pins, and the nuts but I can't get them to even budge,not even by beating them with a hammer after soaking them with PB. Do I need a special tool or something? Any help will be great! Thanks in advance.
05-06-2010, 09:04 PM
#177
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Location: Hampton, Virginia
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: none other
are you hitting it straight on, on the tie rod right next to the pitman arm? i had to beat the crap out of mine but it finally gave in. if not go to your parts store and rent a pickle fork that should do the trick. good luck.
05-06-2010, 09:16 PM
#178
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Rack lights wired into factory fog switch
Searched and could'nt find the info I'm looking for so I figured I'd give it a try here. I'm looking to add 2 to 4 55W lights to my roof rack which I'll be installing this weekend. My question is this. My XJ came with the factory fogs (removed them when I trimmed off the air dam), The wirings still there as is the factory switch. Is it possible to re route this wiring to the new lights so I can use the factory switch to activate them? Electically, I'm a dummy and don't understand how to figure out what lights this stock circuit would be able to handle. Any help from those of you that understand better than I would be greatly appreciated.
05-07-2010, 02:31 AM
#179
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Model: Cherokee
New to this
I recently got me a 1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4, 4.0L, 6 cyliders inline and it's pretty much stock except for the 3 inch lift and a roof rack, but I want more but like I said in the title I'm new to 4x4s and pretty much don't know anything bout it like differentials, gear ratios, locker and stuff of that nature so what can I do to make my Jeep more powerful or whatever it is I have to do to make it a badass offroad, mud slinging machine. Please somebody help me find out this kind of stuff and if you can direct me to where I can get my hands on stuff at a reasnable price would be awesome I'm expecting a baby soon so I'm on a little budget. Thanks
05-07-2010, 03:02 AM
#180
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
remove the left wheel and steer all the way to the right. Take a BFH and strike the pitman arm end -NOT THE TIE ROD- with the tie rod end nut unscrewed but not removed. The damn thing will POP out after a couple of good strikes.
