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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Wetumpka, AL
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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I just installed IRO Adjustable lower control arms on my jeep. The arms came with 4 washers that are about 3/16" thick, but I didn't have room for them inside the control arm mounts. Is this an issue or do some people need them and some dont?
Driving the jeep is fine at all speeds so I see no issues. The steering is also much tighter.
Driving the jeep is fine at all speeds so I see no issues. The steering is also much tighter.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I just installed IRO Adjustable lower control arms on my jeep. The arms came with 4 washers that are about 3/16" thick, but I didn't have room for them inside the control arm mounts. Is this an issue or do some people need them and some dont?
Driving the jeep is fine at all speeds so I see no issues. The steering is also much tighter.
Driving the jeep is fine at all speeds so I see no issues. The steering is also much tighter.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, so im replacing the rear yoke on my Chrysler 8.25 and I got a couple questions. First off, I'm using a solid bearing and shims to replace the crush sleeve. Anyways, here's my questions.
1. Do I check the preload with the carrier and axle shafts in or while i have it out?
2. What's should preload be?
3. When measuring preload, do I check the resistance needed to get the yoke to start turning or the resistance to keep it turning
once it's already turning?
3. Do I need to check ring gear backlash?
4. If I do need to check backlash what's should it be?
5. What should yoke be tightened to once finished?
6. Where can I get gear paint?
7. Also, anything done differently when using a solid bearing instead of crush sleeve?
Anything else I should know before doing this? Thanks
1. Do I check the preload with the carrier and axle shafts in or while i have it out?
2. What's should preload be?
3. When measuring preload, do I check the resistance needed to get the yoke to start turning or the resistance to keep it turning
once it's already turning?
3. Do I need to check ring gear backlash?
4. If I do need to check backlash what's should it be?
5. What should yoke be tightened to once finished?
6. Where can I get gear paint?
7. Also, anything done differently when using a solid bearing instead of crush sleeve?
Anything else I should know before doing this? Thanks
"floating"
I just got a 95 cherokee , lifted 6 inchs and on 33 a/ts and when im driving its stupid hard to keep it going straight and im all over the road (r.i.p. to the pedestrians) but ive been looking for solutions all day but found nothing , and no it isnt the death wobble .
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I just got a 95 cherokee , lifted 6 inchs and on 33 a/ts and when im driving its stupid hard to keep it going straight and im all over the road (r.i.p. to the pedestrians) but ive been looking for solutions all day but found nothing , and no it isnt the death wobble .
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I just got a 95 cherokee , lifted 6 inchs and on 33 a/ts and when im driving its stupid hard to keep it going straight and im all over the road (r.i.p. to the pedestrians) but ive been looking for solutions all day but found nothing , and no it isnt the death wobble .
Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 109
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just got a 95 cherokee , lifted 6 inchs and on 33 a/ts and when im driving its stupid hard to keep it going straight and im all over the road (r.i.p. to the pedestrians) but ive been looking for solutions all day but found nothing , and no it isnt the death wobble .
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 383
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Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 383
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Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Ga.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So this wound up being my problem. The CAT was fried. I replaced the CAT with a Flowmaster high flow CAT and the Muffler with a Flowmaster Super 44. I also installed a new O2 sensor. I knew the second I started the jeep that the problem had been resolved. It is performing better in every way. Thnx for the solid advice.
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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