farmfuel

Okay, so the vacuum solenoid has two ports, and vents on the top, correct? Does it matter which port the vacuum is supplied to? And once you supply current to the solenoid; this is when the motor dies?

ulendo

I know I was in a hurry, but didnt think I'd explained it THAT badly!!

2 ports,and one nearly invisible vent. it matters which way around, as only one port is connected to the vent. think of it as an OR switch - port A, can connect to port B, or vent C. B & C can only ever connect to A, and only one at a time. With no power to the solenoid, ports A, and B are connected. supply power, and port A connects to vent C... To make it function as intended, port A = vacuum line, port B is the vacuum supply ( vacuum pump, reservoir pod, etc) reversing A and B will get you a constant vacuum leak via the vent, and an injection pump that wont return to run mode when you toggle the key ( the injection pump side HAS to vent when not connected to vacuum, or it will continue to pull the fuel rail into the off position)

I DID fail to give full instructions for the red-light tach shutoff system...requires adding a relay to the 12vdc switched power used to make the enigne run. Switched power ( key on/off) goes through the normally closed(connected) terminals on the relay. The tach rpm light goes to the control circuit of the relay, opening the relay when the light comes on: this CUTS power to the vacuum solenoid, backing down the injection pump until revs drop, at which point the tach light will go off, solenoid will return to run mode, and the injection pump will function normally.

Fish N Kid

Ulend-

Block number is....
617 951 12 010 144

Knowing the vintage should tell me the HP (85, 125, 130...)?

thanks !

Fish N Kid

I think I just answered my own question on the power end.... I found this today....

The OM617.951 also displaced 2998 cc with a 90.9 mm bore and 92.4 mm stroke. Power output was 123 hp (91 kW) at first but rose to 125 hp (92 kW) in 1983. Torque was rated at 170 lb·ft (230 N·m).
Applications:

• 123 PS (121 hp/91 kW)
  • 1981-1983 300SD Turbo
• 125 PS (123 hp/92 kW)
  • 1983-1985 300SD Turbo

ulendo

yup - pretty much agrees with the lists I have, too. so long as its not a california car, the trans on there is also the stronger one - 81-86 SD have the W4A 040 ( 2nd gen, 4speed torque convertor auto, rated to 400 ft./lbs input torque)

Fish N Kid

...As far as I know. no. Its a Florida car, but I dont know any of the history. Good to know about the transmission.

BlueXJ

Have you checked this site yet? http://jeep2diesel.org/

ulendo

yup - tried to get onto their mailing list too - email bounced under 'unknown recipient'. a lot of the links were dead, too. only date I could find on any of the pages read: This site was last updated on 26 June 2004.

if you've got better contact info, thatd be great though...

ulendo

FF - here's a photo of the valve I'm setting up to use. hte vent is the small gold cap in the center, the port beside it connects to the IP, adn the port on the far end is the vacuum supply. applying voltage seals off the vacuum supply, and connects the IP line to the vent. no voltage seals the vent, and connects the IP line ot vacuum. only markings on the valve are Pierburg KC - no part numbers, or anything. the wiring as found in the Nissan Z car is a 2 pin connector. I'm not fond of things that can corrode,etc, so I snip the pins, and hard wire the thing past the firewall.

farmfuel

Okay so if I understand correctly- applying vacuum to the pump is what kills the engine? If there's no vacuum going to the pump, and the plugs are hot- the motor will fire, right?

ulendo

if theres no vacuum to the IP, it'll flow fuel when the motor spins. 'plugs hot' is kind of miseleading. there are ball-pin hot spots in the pre chambers, that 'glow' once the motor is running...basically just a 'hot spot' that stays glowing hot from the heat of combustion to aid in starting off the pre-chamber burn in an indirect injected diesel. if the ball pins are still hot ( IE: 2 minute milk stop, or couple of minutes to fuel up) it SHOULD restart without glowing..some do, some dont, depending on exact condition, and tune. Glow plugs require voltage, and preglow time...anywhere from 10, to 60 seconds when cold on the mercedes setups, depending on original specs. older ( slower) plugs can be upgraded with newer ones, to improve starting time. Some of the stock glow plug timers also do a preglow/glow while cranking/afterglow cycle, to limit smoke on cold startup.

USUALLY on a cold engine ( 1st start of the day) , no glow = no start, but my 240D + turbo, with modified timing would start down to about 50*C without glowing ( albeit, it smoked like a B*****d - found this out when the GF forgot to use the manual glow switch!!) summertime, preglow is about 2 seconds with the quick plugs ... you can pretty much just start cranking, and it'll preglow while the oil pressure comes up, and fire in 2-3 seconds once the plugs hit temp. DO NOT use ether on a glow plug engine without disconnecting the plugs, it will burn out, and balloon the glow plugs, then you have to remove the head to get them out. if you dont like glow plugs, see Temro, or Thermo Start for measured ether shot start systems to replace the glow plug setup properly. ( they work great at very cold temps for a quick start..but with without the afterglow circuit, they smoke like crazy while warming up)


*** minor tech footnote: a pinging / rattling / knocking from the head on a benz diesel is a symptom associated with a burned out ball pin - happens if the motor has too much blow by or has been burning oil past the rings. aside from the noise, you'll get a certain amount of blue-gray smoke, low power, and poor mileage - all symptoms attributable to the poorer quality burn without the hot spot. these days the cheapest cure for this is to find a used head in good shape, as it takes some serious machining to change the ball pins.