willwatsonfl

Hey everyone,
I am new to the Jeep community and have read some great information here. I just picked up a 95 Cherokee, 2wd, 2.5L for the grand total of $100 bucks. It's been beat on pretty good, but the kid I got it from thought the cylinder head was cracked because it kept leaking water. Turned out to be a rusted out freeze plug and seems to be running fine. I will be doing a lot to this Jeep so I look forward to talking with everyone.

The main question I have for tonight is about the clutch slave cylinder. It's externally mounted (like any older slave), but this bleeding screw doesn't look normal. I'm used to bleeder screws, like on brakes, where you can slip a piece of hose on, turn the screw with a wrench, and bleed away. This doesnt look anything close to normal for me. Is this actually where you bleed the system? I've also read so many different ways to bleed the system. Some say you dont have to, some say you have to replace the master cylinder and slave as a complete unit already filled with fluid, it seems that no one can agree.

Any suggestions...Thanks...Will

COSXJFAN

I'm unsure as far as that being the right bleeder or not. When bleeding a hydro clutch, just have a buddy hold the pedal down and you loosen the bleeder valve, release the fluid, and tighten it "BEFORE" your buddy lets the pedal up and repeat. It's pretty easy, and your clutch should be working properly afterwards. If not, you need to check for other issues. Be glad you don't have the BA-10 tranny, as you have to pull it to replace the slave, ask me how I know this. Later HTH!!

willwatsonfl

I've bleed a lot of different systems on cars and motorcycles so that shouldn't be the issue. I've just read a lot of conflicting stories about this particular slave cylinder.

Thanks for the input...WW

willwatsonfl

Here is some interesting information from the Autozone website.

Grand Cherokee and 1994-98 Cherokee
The clutch master cylinder, reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines are sealed units and are serviced as an assembly only. Refer to the Clutch Master Cylinder removal and installation procedure.
SYSTEM BLEEDING

On the Grand Cherokee and 1994-98 Cherokee, the clutch master cylinder, reservoir, slave cylinder and connecting lines are sealed units and are serviced as an assembly only. System bleeding is not necessary or possible.

If it is true, then why would they still sell you a slave cylinder or a rebuild kit?

Does anyone agree with this?

BlueXJ

Never messed with a slave on a Cherokee (all autos) but that does seem strange that they sell the parts and still say that you need to replace as a sealed unit.

BlueXJ

NAPA only lists the parts seperate not as a unit. Here is their slave cylinder HERE

willwatsonfl

That is whats strange. Normal auto parts stores sell the parts separate, but some of the other parts houses sells complete units for 94-96 XJ's(jeep4x4center.com). Here is the link http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...umber=52107600

I'm gonna try and call a Jeep dealership tomorrow and see if I can get any answer from them.

willwatsonfl

Ok, I talked to 2 Jeep dealerships. Both parts departments say they only sell the complete Clutch Hydraulic Assembly. One service tech said that you still had to bleed the system after install. The other said that the assembly should come in filled and already bled (not serviceable).

So I went to autozone to look at a replacement slave cylinder. Instead of a "normal" bleeder screw, this unit has an Allen head set screw that when screwed in blocks a small hole in the side of the slave cylinder. Not your normal bleeder, but I guess you can still make it work.
The polytube (plastic line) I can't find anyone who sells it. I've seen some fitting kits that adapt to a flare type fitting so you can replace the plastic with steel lines, but thats a big hassle too.

So needless to say, I think I'm gonna just buy the whole setup and take my chances that the unit comes in pre-bled. If it doesn't, I'll try and bleed it the old fashioned way. I'm not in a big hurry with this so it will be a couple of weeks before I order it, but I will sure let everyone know how it comes in.

If anyone has any other input, or knows of a more reliable parts conversion setup...Please let me know...Thanks for the help...

BlueXJ

Will I hate to burst your bubble but just because Chrysler decided to sell it as a unit does NOT mean that is the only or even best way to do what is best for you and your Jeep. Seperate parts may make it more serviceable in the future. It may need to be the way Chrysler did it to make or save a penny or two, not because it was the best way to engineer it. Just my .02 cents worth.

willwatsonfl

I totally agree with you. Manufacturers always look at cost and supply rather than if its the best way to do things. My main concern before I start any mods is to make sure that there wasn't a specific reason something was done a certain way. This clutch system doesn't appear to be the case.

Thanks for the input...

BlueXJ

Let us know what you finally end up doing!!

willwatsonfl

Let me just say...I love the junk yard. I went out to our local "Self-Service" junk yard and found a 94 SE that no one had really touched. Among many other things, I was able to snag the whole clutch assy for 20 bucks.

After cleaning everything off very well I decided to take the system apart. The master cylinder and slave cylinders are held onto the polytube by roll-pins and sealed by an o-ring on both sides. It was no problem for me to press out the roll-pins with a pair of pliers and a nail. I used compressed air to blow out the polytube, inspected the o-rings, re-assembled, and pressed the pins back in.

I had no problem bleeding the system either. I just compressed the slave cylinder with a clamp and socket before I started. The slave cylinder does have a set-screw (instead of a normal bleeder valve) that blocks a small hole in the side that lets fluid out. You just have to let it squirt into a pan, but it wasn't a problem. I just bled the system like a set of old brakes.

I hope this might help someone else in the future...

BlueXJ

Thanks for sharing willwatsonfl. It may very well save someone the grief that you went through. So we now know it can be replace one part at a time if needed and that the setscrew/bleed screw are different on a slave than on other vehicles. A wealth of knowledge.

fentiger

'97 jeep cherokee sport 2.5td. I was driving down a country road, at one end of the road the clutch seemed to be working fine. but when i got to the other end of the road there was no pressure on the clutch pedal.
I checked for any leeking on the clutch pipe, but there wasn't any'.

any ideas what it could be or how i can fix it?

thanks,

sgt2881

reply from sgt2881:
I just replaced clutch and slave cylinder last night. The OEM slave has a bleeder screw and can be bled as described in Autozone instructions or Haines Manual. the new unit has a place for the bleeder screw however there is no oriface into the cylinder. What you have to do is (don't cut) release the transportation strap, fill the cylinder, attached the hydraulic line and insert roll pin. Have a helper watch the fluid level in the clutch fluid Reservoir while you are under the vehicle. Holding the slave cylinder verticle, pump the cylinder in and out until no more bubbles appear in the Reservoir ** Make sure your partner doesn't let the cylinder run dry or you suck air into the line. This is the instructions you get if you purchase the slave cylinder from a NAPA Store. don't cut the straps. reinstall them and install the slave cylinder. the straps are intended to brake the 1st time you step on the clutch. I did this with my wife's help and I'm back on the road!