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95 Cherokee Crank no start

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Old 12-03-2008, 01:23 PM
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Default 95 Cherokee Crank no start (UPDATE- SHE LIVES!)

First of this is my first post for this forum,my wife and I are avid Jeepers and have 5 Jeeps right now (At least untill I get the plow of the MJ and scrap her).

Having starting problems with my 95 Cherokee with 4.0, around 113,000 miles. Died on me going down the road begining of the week. Lights and Accesories worked, but lost engine. Although prior to dying the headlights were starting to dim when I turned up the heater blower and turned on my CB.
Couldn't jump start it and keep it going, she started once, than died as soon as the jumper cable were pulled off battery.

Wife towed me home, we took out the alternator wich had a big crack in it. Failed bench testing so we put in a new alternator and battery. Still no start. once or twice it almost fired but would not run.

I checked the grounding straps for the engine block and negative battery terminal, clean and intact. Along with the alternator and battery the distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, crank shaft/position sensor, and Cam sensor/stator,and fuel filter are all new this week. Plugs and wires were done end of July and have 10k miles on them. I'm getting fuel but not any spark. Maybe it's the ignition controll module? any ideas or simliar experience would be helpfull.



Now, I need some help clearing up info on the CPS, I've purchased 2 new CPS, from 2 differnet stores, by 2 different brands and both read at 250 Ohms. Now if I've read right that is the reading for a pre 90's 4.0 CPS and not my 95?

Am I getting the wrong part? How can I be sure I'm getting the right part? I watch the counter drone pull up the info for the right year on the computer.

Also, would I get power to the coil if the CPS was bad just wouldn't get spark, or there not even be power going to it?

Last edited by NHJeeper; 12-08-2008 at 12:19 PM.
Old 12-04-2008, 08:57 AM
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If my new alternator was defective would that cause this problem? I would think i would still be able to jump start it.

I am stil puzzled by th Crankshaft sensor. I find it hard to believe that both NAPA and Advance would have incorrectly marked boxes for the part. But they are both reading at 250 Ohm. I don't know what else to do besides try another Crank sensor.

Any ideas?
Old 12-04-2008, 10:21 AM
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I assume with everything you have checked and replaced that you have spark and fuel to the rail. The Cherokees have a fusible link which may have blown during the jump start. Check that. The 250 ohm is ok for your year of Cherokee.
Part number should be AL2205 or AL2017 95s used both as it was a transition year. Those are Neihoff part numbers.
BTW Jaguars of the same year also used one of those 2 CPS units (just a tad of trivia)
Old 12-04-2008, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the CPS info, I'm being told on another forum that 250 Ohm is way wrong for my '95, But I find it hard to believe that I would get two sensors from two different place that read that if it were wrong.

I didn't mention that my 4.0 is the HO, because I thought all XJ 4.0 were the HO for that year. if that's important to know, well, you do now

Where might that fusible link be located so I can check into it? Every thing in the relay center under the hood by the battery seems in order, and I am getting fuel from the injector rail.
Old 12-04-2008, 03:01 PM
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OK, so when testing the CPS I know I use the B and C terminals.Does it matter what terminal I put the negative or positive lead from the Ohm meter?

Also according to a write up I found on this forum 250 is wrong for my CPS.

My year range
Originally Posted by BlueXJ
TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines
1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

NOT my year range
Originally Posted by BlueXJ
TESTING PROCECURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines
Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.

Will someone PLEASE help with my confusion? I'm not trying to be difficult. Just really need an explanation
Old 12-04-2008, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by NHJeeper
If my new alternator was defective would that cause this problem? I would think i would still be able to jump start it.

I am stil puzzled by th Crankshaft sensor. I find it hard to believe that both NAPA and Advance would have incorrectly marked boxes for the part. But they are both reading at 250 Ohm. I don't know what else to do besides try another Crank sensor.

Any ideas?
Sounds like alternator. One of my friends exactly had problem too.
Old 12-04-2008, 05:22 PM
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Just to clarify. You friend had an alternator go bad, than put in a new alternator That turned out to be defective? And this caused a no start such as I am experiencing?
Old 12-04-2008, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NHJeeper
Just to clarify. You friend had an alternator go bad, than put in a new alternator That turned out to be defective? And this caused a no start such as I am experiencing?
Last time ALT was old. He drove and the light went weak, dying. Crank wont start. Put jumper it got crank up. When he take jumper cable off. It dying. So he got tow. And went to buy new alt. It work now no more dying.
Old 12-04-2008, 10:06 PM
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OK, I already replaced the alt, but now my problem is she cranks but has no spark.
Old 12-04-2008, 11:00 PM
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Any trouble codes or any CEL when you turn to on?

A loose sensor might cause that.. ie. MAP d/c or bad and you cant start.

There are alot of reasons why it might be happening.. hows the air filter, test the coil? hm...
Old 12-04-2008, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NHJeeper
OK, I already replaced the alt, but now my problem is she cranks but has no spark.
I would like for you to check ingition coil the spark wire plug. Need take out and need hold closer where coil is. Need someone crank for you. To see if it not show spark. It should be ingition coil. Also check rotor cap no dirty or broke anything like that. If it is spark but wont run. Try starter fluid spary on throttle bodies. And let me know.
Old 12-05-2008, 07:48 AM
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OK maybe I should a little more clear as to what I've done.

First- not only am I not getting any spark, I can't even find any power going to the coil.

Second-I have checked for spark at the plug, the plug wire, and the rie going from the coil to distributor. I've even used and inline tester to try to see if there was spark. My father in law even checked just incase I was missing something or doing it wrong, even though I've done it dozens of times on other cars.

Please read my first post to see all that has been replaced before asking if rotor,cap and what not are dirty or worn.

I checked the grounding straps for the engine block and negative battery terminal, clean and intact. Along with the alternator and battery the distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil, crank shaft/position sensor, and Cam sensor/stator,and fuel filter are all new this week. Plugs and wires were done end of July and have 10k miles on them.
If I don't get any spark I don't think staring fluid will help me, correct me if I'm wrong though. I AM here to learn after all. And far as I know, I only have ONE throttle body on my XJ

Originally Posted by Jsny1010
Any trouble codes or any CEL when you turn to on?

A loose sensor might cause that.. ie. MAP d/c or bad and you cant start.

There are alot of reasons why it might be happening.. hows the air filter, test the coil? hm...
NO CEL. But didn't think of the MAP. I can check that out. Would An IAC keep me from getting power to the coil? I was thinking of cleaning that out.
It's about time to change the air filter but it's no where near as dirty as it has been before.

Last edited by NHJeeper; 12-05-2008 at 07:52 AM.
Old 12-05-2008, 08:00 AM
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Sry I was gone yesterday afternoon and evening. The fusable link is in the bundle of wires at the PDC on the passenger side. Looks like a swollen place in a wire. The procedure you read is correct and I misread it the first time I read your post on CPS checking. So 250 is not infinite. Re read the thing again and change it accordingly.

The bad altenator will not cause a complete no start but will cause an immediate death after unhooking jumper cables.
HTH
Old 12-05-2008, 08:19 AM
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Thank you so much Blue.

Refersh my memory what's the PDC again? is that under the hood near the battery?

What I need to figure out is how my 2 new sensors are bad? and where I can get one that is good. would the CPS on my '01 tj work for my XJ? maybe I can swap it into Red just to see of that makes her spark?

Last edited by NHJeeper; 12-05-2008 at 08:22 AM.
Old 12-05-2008, 09:19 AM
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PDC = power distribution center
Not sure about the TJ part working in your XJ.


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